Author Topic: K1200R 2006  (Read 1042 times)

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Offline black-k1

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #15 on: October 01, 2020, 09:19:45 am »
10 years ago any kind of piggy back after market fuelling gizmo was dead, because so many folks had worked out how to access the the ECU, including the ream upon ream posted about about Hilltop I went in person and walked out after 20 minutes but that really is another story.

Because of the easy ECU access and how things were going I went with a Rexxer map and several hours on a dyno, it’s good but doesn’t have the ‘Feel of a PC’.

Within a couple years Europe along with the TUV had a major clampdown and ECU’s are all but impossible to break into and hence the comeback of piggyback, the two current front runners are Power Commander and Rapid Bike, my personal preference is a PC, currently have such on 3 bikes(2 PC111 and 1 PCV)and have another to go on my KTM over the winter.

Aftermarket fuelling is just like anything else in this life you get what you pay for and cheaper options are available.

I'm not sure I agree with the comment "ECU’s are all but impossible to break into". A small sample, I know, but the H2 SX is well known for being able to re-flash. Doing so adds around 40bhp with just the addition of a high flow filter and a decent can. Add in a de-cat and some new headers with the associated re-flash and you'll be adding over 50bhp from stock.
Correct rear brake use is scientifically proven to shorten stopping distances in EVERY road situation.

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Offline chriscanning

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #16 on: October 01, 2020, 10:50:20 am »
So what’s your personnel experience of having an ECU remapped?

And who did it?
« Last Edit: October 01, 2020, 10:52:01 am by chriscanning »

Offline black-k1

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #17 on: October 01, 2020, 11:16:59 am »
On my H2 SX I had Hilltop remap my ECU. I gained about 10% more in the mid range and about another 5 bhp at the top end, up from192 bhp to 197bhp. I have the dyno charts somewhere and my "seat of the pants" dyno really noticed the difference.

I then discovered that Kawasaki neutered the H2 SX above 9000 rpm. Even though the throttle is held fully open, the ECU starts to shut the throttle butterflies so that at 11,000 the engine is only getting about 20% throttle. The red line is 12,500 rpm. Hilltop wouldn't remove this restriction so I sent my ECU to Florida as there was a very highly recommended tuner there. He flashed my ECU to remove the restrictions, and also change the 3 modes.

The original modes gave the same bottom end but neutered the top end above 6000rpm in low to give 100bhp, 8000rpm in medium to give 150bhp and full power high

The new modes all gave full, un-neutered throttle across the whole range but with a much gentler delivery and tuned for fuel economy in low, tuned for power rather than economy with a slightly gentler delivery in medium and "balls out", smack you in the face, raw grunt in high mode. I think high is actually too much for general road use. Just a wiff of throttle and the bike is off like a scalded cat. Great for track work or if you really want to go for it, but a little too much for general riding in traffic. On the road, I normally ride in medium which actually has the same "headline" dyno output (219bhp) as high

As you can see, very much a total reprogramme of the ECU.

ETA correction of mistype of final bhp value
« Last Edit: October 02, 2020, 07:36:27 am by black-k1 »
Correct rear brake use is scientifically proven to shorten stopping distances in EVERY road situation.

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Offline chriscanning

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #18 on: October 01, 2020, 03:57:22 pm »
Only got as far as HT Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Offline revd

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2020, 05:57:52 pm »
Been for a ride with the BoosterPlug fitted, and new exhaust.

Smoother straight off.  No hesitation or missing.  Does make a difference on that side of things for sure.  I am going to stick with it for a while and see if the ECU works it way around it. 

New exhaust sounds a lot nicer, deeper, with a rather lovely howl at higher revs.  It feels smoother on and off the throttlle and I am looking forward to seeing what it is like on a longer ride. it is not too loud and I am leaving the baffle in.  More road presence, but not obnoxious.
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Offline chriscanning

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #20 on: October 01, 2020, 06:48:21 pm »
It should be making a difference, no matter which mod you go for it’s all about filling the holes in the fuel map particularly around 4250 revs because that is where the TUV do their test, manufacturers know that even before submitting a bike for the test, and the way to stop emissions is too stop fuel going into the motor so that is what they do, all any of the mods do some being more sophisticated than others is put that fuel back in.

Offline Matt

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #21 on: October 01, 2020, 07:26:33 pm »
On my H2 SX I had Hilltop remap my ECU. I gained about 10% more in the mid range and about another 5 bhp at the top end, up from192 bhp to 197bhp. I have the dyno charts somewhere and my "seat of the pants" dyno really noticed the difference.

I then discovered that Kawasaki neutered the H2 SX above 9000 rpm. Even though the throttle is held fully open, the ECU starts to shut the throttle butterflies so that at 11,000 the engine is only getting about 20% throttle. The red line is 12,500 rpm. Hilltop wouldn't remove this restriction so I sent my ECU to Florida as there was a very highly recommended tuner there. He flashed my ECU to remove the restrictions, and also change the 3 modes.

The original modes gave the same bottom end but neutered the top end above 6000rpm in low to give 100bhp, 900rpm in medium to give 150bhp and full power high

The new modes all gave full, un-neutered throttle across the whole range but with a much gentler delivery and tuned for fuel economy in low, tuned for power rather than economy with a slightly gentler delivery in medium and "balls out", smack you in the face, raw grunt in high mode. I think high is actually too much for general road use. Just a wiff of throttle and the bike is off like a scalded cat. Great for track work or if you really want to go for it, but a little too much for general riding in traffic. On the road, I normally ride in medium which actually has the same "headline" dyno output (119bhp) as high

As you can see, very much a total reprogramme of the ECU.

That's pretty mad, the restrictions! Is there a widely held view regarding why? Also I want one.
"My riding is far from perfect"
Brian c. 2019

Offline black-k1

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #22 on: October 02, 2020, 07:45:35 am »

That's pretty mad, the restrictions! Is there a widely held view regarding why? Also I want one.

No definitive answer but the suggestion is that it's neutered to keep the output below that of the H2 sports bike.

I think that bike manufactures view it as "bad form" to have a sports tourer model even close to the output of the "equivalent" sports model, let alone bettering it.
Correct rear brake use is scientifically proven to shorten stopping distances in EVERY road situation.

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Offline Phmode

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #23 on: October 02, 2020, 12:22:30 pm »
Did anyone ask the sport end of the sport-tourer community?

Offline black-k1

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #24 on: October 02, 2020, 02:30:42 pm »
10 years ago any kind of piggy back after market fuelling gizmo was dead, because so many folks had worked out how to access the the ECU, including the ream upon ream posted about about Hilltop I went in person and walked out after 20 minutes but that really is another story.

Because of the easy ECU access and how things were going I went with a Rexxer map and several hours on a dyno, it’s good but doesn’t have the ‘Feel of a PC’.

Within a couple years Europe along with the TUV had a major clampdown and ECU’s are all but impossible to break into and hence the comeback of piggyback, the two current front runners are Power Commander and Rapid Bike, my personal preference is a PC, currently have such on 3 bikes(2 PC111 and 1 PCV)and have another to go on my KTM over the winter.

Aftermarket fuelling is just like anything else in this life you get what you pay for and cheaper options are available.

Sorry Chris but as per the other thread, my experience suggests that current ECUs are still very much get-at-able.
Correct rear brake use is scientifically proven to shorten stopping distances in EVERY road situation.

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Offline Phmode

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #25 on: October 02, 2020, 04:43:43 pm »
I think it depends on the marque.

Both BSD and Hilltop said they couldn't crack my 22017 Honda ECU and it was tthe same from all those I spoke to.

Offline revd

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #26 on: November 15, 2020, 05:11:49 pm »
Added a K&N Airfilter this evening, I was bored... and it came up at a cracking good price, so could not ignore the fun of fitting it.  Bike is on the battery tender on "frost" setting, so is ready to roar into life as and when I require it!  Just not while it is wet and grim. Cold weather is fine, but cold wet weather is not!
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Offline Phmode

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Re: K1200R 2006
« Reply #27 on: November 15, 2020, 09:53:06 pm »
It all depends on where you live.

Back in my Thames Valley days, autumn was a good time to ride. No salt yet, not too hot in the full gear and there were few trees shedding their leaves so not much in the way of slime and emulsion on the roads. Oh, and no one had invented agriculture so there was tarmac on both sides of the road rather just on the opposite side to the side I was riding on...

Now I am in the Welsh Marches! Leaves, slime, emulsion, mud. And that is just the 2 miles into town...

Going the other way from home it is mud, emulsion, slime and then leaves on top.

Makes a change and the car doesn't care. As it happens, neither does the Honda  ;)