Author Topic: Connecting heated clothing.  (Read 352 times)

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Offline drumwrecker

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Connecting heated clothing.
« on: February 11, 2019, 05:16:43 pm »
Help, I thought I would ask first rather than get my self in a pickle with panels and wires.
I have purchased Keis heated vest and gloves.
Is there an easy way of routing cables from the battery to the front of the saddle/tank area or does the side tank panel have to be removed. From what I have read the accessory socket is unable to provide enough power. Plus amp/watts and ohms = utter confusion to me.
Its not always the destination that counts its the ride, having a destination just stops you going round in circles.

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2019, 05:27:50 pm »
Don't forget Ron that connecting directly to the battery means it's always live.
I connect everything through a Fuzeblock, lights, GPS, heated clothing, this can be switched or always live. I have everything switched, I like to know that when the key is off so is everything else.
https://www.fuzeblocks.com/
https://www.nippynormans.com/fuse-panels/fuzeblock-switchable-fuse-panel

Not cheap, but very good and easy to install, and you can move it to your next bike if you change bikes.

Offline TomL

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2019, 05:49:56 pm »
I've run my BMW heated vest off the auxillary socket without any problems.
As I have grown older, I've learned that pleasing everybody is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.

Offline Lotus26R

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2019, 05:56:59 pm »
I just ran the Keiss cable from the battery and under the LHS tank panel bringing it up at the front of the seat. It really is only a few minutes work to take the tank panel off - I don't think there is an easier way to do it "permanently".

Offline Phmode

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2019, 06:09:42 pm »
Agreed. Seat off. A couple of screws in the panel and then pull it backward until it disengages.

Putting it back is a little more fiddly as you have to ensure that the spigot at the front engages in the rubber grommet and the catch at the top of the rear can easily get snapped. Don't ask...

Offline howlindawg

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2019, 08:21:36 pm »
I'm with Rae, I like to be able to kill the power to any electrical extras if needed.

I have PDM-60 under the RHS tail panel and all the electrics (Lights, Horn, Autocom, Gerbring) run from that.

https://www.nippynormans.com/f650st-f650cs-f650gs-f650-dakar/pdm60-power-distribution-module-with-programming-cable

I've just checked the price on Nippys and I'm 100% certain they were significantly cheaper back when I bought mine.  :o
« Last Edit: February 11, 2019, 09:55:34 pm by howlindawg »
I'm Martin.

Offline drumwrecker

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2019, 08:44:05 pm »
Thanks fellas for your help, its much appreciated.
Its not always the destination that counts its the ride, having a destination just stops you going round in circles.

Offline Phmode

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2019, 10:44:51 am »
Steady on Ron!

Too much praise is not to be encouraged around here, folks will only get ever more helpful and then where would we be  8)

Offline Costas

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2019, 01:25:24 pm »
Ι resently bought the two sockets new extension cable that really helped a lot with connecting heated vests for me and the misses, second time used in a really harsh winder  here.
Embrace the wind.

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2019, 01:45:10 pm »
It surprises me that you need heated clothing Costas  :o

Offline Costas

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2019, 06:02:30 pm »
Me too my friend but it is the worsted winder of the last 10 years, tomorrow we expect for yet once more 15cm of snow.
Embrace the wind.

Offline sitting_duck

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2019, 06:22:48 pm »
Plus amp/watts and ohms = utter confusion to me.


Volts x Amps = Watts (power consumed) - can your alternator / generator / stator provide enough power
Volts / Amps = Ohms (resistance) - resistence to current flow
Volts / Ohms = Amps (current drawn) - can your cables carry this much current
Amps x Ohms = Volts (potential difference) - proportional to current and inversly proportional to resistance, don't worry to much about this one on vehicles.

Know the current your heater is going to draw, and have an appropriately rated fuse - the fuse is to protect the cable not the device. Ensure that your alternator / generator / stator has enough power to spare to start and run the bike, charge the battery and run your heater.

Your alternator / generator / stator is largely none upgradeble (it is but for pratical terms it isn't), but you may want a better battery (practically you probably won't).

If memory serves correct the K1300 is a 12AH battery - meaning you can draw 12 Amps for 1 Hour until it's dead. In reality you can draw a lot more current over a shorter period of time (think starting it up) that won't hugley deplete the battery, but with this to recharge AND the load of the heater, you may find that stop start trips in cold weather can leave the battery struggling.

Suck it and see I'd go with (don't suck the battery  ;D )


Offline Phmode

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2019, 07:10:23 pm »
It surprises me that you need heated clothing Costas  :o

You obviously haven't been following the recent cold snaps on the Weather Forecasts Rae  ::)

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2019, 07:14:30 pm »
It surprises me that you need heated clothing Costas  :o

You obviously haven't been following the recent cold snaps on the Weather Forecasts Rae  ::)
Quite right, I haven't  :-[

Offline drumwrecker

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Re: Connecting heated clothing.
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2019, 11:05:41 pm »
Thanks S_D you saved me looking it up. I have a 16AH battery (a yellow one forgot the name).
I will do some homework to check the other stuff you mentioned.
All connected up to the battery for the moment. Keis seem to be  out of stock for some cables like the DIN connector lead so will check out optimate stuff.
Hope to try it all out tomorrow.
Its not always the destination that counts its the ride, having a destination just stops you going round in circles.