Author Topic: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars  (Read 953 times)

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Offline richtea

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2018, 09:45:25 pm »
I suspect that will be replacement switchgear on the right that you'll need.
If you have the BMW warranty, its covered, but will cost the £100 excess, of course.

As an aside, my righthand switchgear also got replaced for my hot start warranty claim, because the extra battery loom fix didn't do the trick.
It's the one warranty thing that I have claimed on - for both bikes.
(Which means I'm not getting good value for the warranty, but I like the security. Odd, really.)

Offline Philip

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #16 on: November 25, 2018, 06:25:55 pm »
If one grip is still working I would suspect it is either a wiring fault or the grip itself that is faulty.

Although i've had the grips off my bike when changing the yoke, I can't remember how they were connected.

I can't see BMW adopting an expensive slip ring system when they can get away with extra flexible wire.

Offline Sutty

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #17 on: November 25, 2018, 06:58:44 pm »
That's what I was thinking, I dug out the reprom and had a look but it's pretty vague, it didn't show a slip ring. I'll meter it out in the week,the left one worked fine on both settings.

Best regards. Mick
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Offline Costas

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #18 on: November 26, 2018, 09:01:36 am »
You're of  for an ew grip . Nothing to do with the switch.
Embrace the wind.

Offline TomL

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #19 on: November 27, 2018, 10:32:40 am »
I'm told that it is normally the left grip that packs up. When pushing the bike about the twisting on the left grip which is fixed damages the grip whereas the right grip twists.
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Offline Phmode

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #20 on: November 27, 2018, 11:29:57 am »
Another BMW first. Everyone else manages to get them to work OK and I never heard of either packing up on the old GS when I had mine.

Offline black-k1

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #21 on: November 27, 2018, 12:25:08 pm »
I'm told that it is normally the left grip that packs up. When pushing the bike about the twisting on the left grip which is fixed damages the grip whereas the right grip twists.

I've heard this before and is, I believe, common to all heated grips that are wired via a "fixed" connection with the handlebars. No a BMW specific issue and definitely not a K1?00S/GT/R issue.
Correct rear brake use is scientifically proven to shorten stopping distances in EVERY road situation.

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Offline Sutty

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #22 on: November 27, 2018, 01:00:47 pm »
I haven't had chance to look at it yet, but I did phone the stealers. If it's the grip, it's £111. And if it's the switch £132.
I had a bit of a moan at the guy about it being a common fault and that the bike has low mileage and probably never been ridden in the winter, he said they'd replaced a few, switchgear that is,  but all under warranty the last being a 2016 1600.
I've had four Fireblades since 1993 and never had a mechanical failure, and only one re-call.
I love everything about this bike but this failure should never happen given that BMW have been fitting heated grips to their bikes for a long time. I have a 10 year old Jeep and the heated seats are used every day in the winter and still work perfectly.


Best regards.  Mick
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Offline mab1067

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #23 on: November 27, 2018, 01:23:43 pm »
Dont get me going on heated Grips  :-X
See you've done it now. My 14 plate bikes Heated grips were excellent and had to sometime turn down to setting 1 as very toasty. New 16 Motorsport and grips almost worse than useless. Bck and forth to dealer but told within the 8 degree spec and as we all know that can make one massive difference at temps up here in the old North east. Nothing they can do, even though you can apparently go online with GS thingy and turn up output. Although nobody can explain exactly what is required here and what output to look for.
Amazing the dealer cannot do this if possible?? As i will be keeping this bike until im seventy or cant physically move about i would travel to location if anybody can definitely carry this procedure out??
Mark Barbour

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #24 on: November 27, 2018, 01:51:07 pm »
The members map shows members with GS 911s that are willing to help. The red map pins are members with GS 911s.
A link to the members map can be found in the Who's Who section.

Offline mab1067

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #25 on: November 28, 2018, 01:15:05 pm »
Cheers for that.
Nearest me is down in Edinburgh about 3 half hours. However be worth a visit.
The only thing i would need is some sort of procedure explaining what output setting is required to be changed and a min / max range.
Anybody any ideas, think Costas did mention you can change but no procedure as such.
Mark Barbour

Offline Phmode

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #26 on: November 28, 2018, 06:18:42 pm »
It needs someone who plays with their GS-911 more than me...TomL?...TomK1300S?

Offline mab1067

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #27 on: November 28, 2018, 08:47:42 pm »
appreciate that. anybody help me out here???
Mark Barbour

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #28 on: November 28, 2018, 08:58:38 pm »
appreciate that. anybody help me out here???
Yes, TomL or Tom K1300S

Offline MadMountainbike

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Re: Replacing grip rubber on heated bars
« Reply #29 on: November 28, 2018, 09:54:24 pm »
Another BMW first. Everyone else manages to get them to work OK and I never heard of either packing up on the old GS when I had mine.

I can categorically tell you that they did pack up on the GS. My 1150 GS went through three sets of switch gear and heated grips under warranty before they stayed fixed. In fairness appart from that and some paint finish... and some replacement wheels... and a new clutch because there was an oil leak via the bell housing... all fixed under warranty in the early days, it settled down and I did just shy of 130,000 miles on it and still sold if for a couple of grand, so it wasn't a bad old beast.
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