Well, sorry too admit it but after a ten year layoff from biking,  and after a year of ownership I have to let the big silver gray shark go, nothing wrong with the bike , its just too big and heavy for me  with my limited movement's.  Done about 2500 miles in the last year, which I  have enjoyed , and in that time I have totally serviced the bike,  including A new battery,  2 new air filters new engine oil and filter, replaced front and rear bake fluid , stripped and cleaned brake calipers and pads, replaced rear shaft drive  oil, re- greased  drive shaft splines, fitted a new center stand and a rear hugger, the bike is  unmolested and totaly standard apart from some genuine carbon fiber protection  to the top yoke, instruments  cluster and top fairing inserts. Had a new replacement set of clutch plates fitted in January 21 by John Clark BMW tayside, when the bike had extensive warranty  recal work done, ie replacement fuel pump, new rear hub plate new cam chain tensioner,  and cam sprocket guard fitted. The bike has  Mot until 16th September 2022, no advisories, 7 previous mots, hand book, and many Service receipts  from BMW dealers  documenting the service work carried out. The bike only has one key,
Will be sorry to see the bike go, I got this one because I had one before that was destroyed  in France, on tour in 2011, thought I could pick biking  up  again from were I left it. .... but sadly  not the case im afraid, gona need something smaller. If anyone wants to know more info please drop me a line
The bike is a non ABS model so no worries about the problems with BMW abs brake systems,  looks and runs great, I get loads of complements  on how good the bike looks  when Im out with it , its done 43,601 miles, so too sum up the bikes ready to go, being honest the tires will need replaced in the next 1500 miles but apart from that its good to go, I have pictures if you want to see them please drop me a line, looking for £2875

Just looked at how to upload photos of the bike way to technical for me as I have problems remembering the steps needed to uplosd them ,result of head injuries,  but if anyone wants to see pictures you can direct message me and I can get some to your email address if you like , that I can do

Ok , maybe some of you have had this  problem also ? I have this annoying plastic on plastic  rattle , coming from under my seat when the bike travels over bumps ect on the road,  I have looked all over the rear of the bike , thought it was the ecu rattling in its recess, the plastic clip and screw that secures it was missing so purchased that, thinking job done  ..... wrong, looked everywhare under the bike for missing screws fittings ect  checking plastic under trays ect, nothing looks odd or out of place, checked to see if rear hugger was the cause of the problem, seems fine to me, I removed the rear light to check the rear subframe and passanger hand rail mounts, one bolt missing,  thought yes found it ..... but alast..... no, still got this bloody plastic rattle, doing my head in so it is . Looking and hitting the rear plastic covers around the grab rails, its the same kind of sound, the panels to me look to be sitting very close to the grab rail and the black under covers, so my question is there supposed to be some kind of rubber spacers on the torques bolts that fit the rear panels to the rear subframe., its about the only thing I can think of , any help or info would be great

If the Motec one has a poorly shaped foot that won't help.

work done = force × distance

Two things there:

1. If one stand lifts the bike higher (4cm rather than 2cm) then you've had to do more work to get it higher.

2. If one stand does the lift in a shorter movement then you'll have to use more power (but for a shorter time).
For example, imagine two different stands, one with a curved surface that rolls on the ground and lifts as it rolls, versus 2 flat-ended sticks. The roll might take 15cm to roll back onto the stand in relative comfort, but the sticks have to be hoiked up swiftish in a 10cm backward move, with extra power.

You could measure how far both bikes move back as they goes onto the stand - a long (=easy) travel backwards onto the stand versus a short one.

That doesn't help solve your problem, but you could look at height and the foot design of both, and enlighten us!

I think all bikes should come with dual bottle jack stands, if only for the futuristic hiss of them popping down.

That was my next step check the hight of the bikes when  on stands

Edit by Matt: And this one too, phew! Everybody gets... two?

Motec K1200S center stand V's standared  BMW center stand ?

Picked up a brand new motec center stand for  the silver bus, fitting it was really easy, but I think its much harder to get it on to the center stand than my mates 2007 K1200S which has the bmw fitted center stand .
I get the impression  that the motec center stand has a more upright stance to it , meaning it takes a big effort to get it to roll  into the up right position,  I have restricted back movements due to RTA years ago, but compared to my mates bike getting that on the center stand is a so much easier


Do  I just have to admit it ? ......... im getting old lol

Not quite what you say you are looking for but I have a genuine K1200S tank bag, in only lightly used condition.  Also a Givi Top Box monokey mounting frame, also in good cond.  Also a Givi E52 top box, old and scruffy but in one piece and with working lock and one key.  Off my 1200S from a year ago.

If of any interest, or need pics, please pm me.

thanks for the offer but not on the look out for luggage just yet . Cherrs

Oh yes deep joy, thats why I have one thats not abs

According to the RepROM the distance between the Wheel Speed Sensor and the Sensor Ring should be between 0.2 - 1.7 mm

Hope that helps.

any info is good info thanks any idea how to reset the gap do I remove the ABS wheel sensor and reinstall it with feeler gauge,  then tighting the small  domed head screw