EuroKClub
General forum area => K1200 / K1300 Forum => Topic started by: Forcefield on December 21, 2023, 10:21:53 pm
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Been searching through this awesome forum for all things K13 in preparation for buying my new to me bike and must say its been a really great source of information from a nice bunch of people! :winkthumbs:
Im a part time detailer ( full time drummer :evil:) and plan to take all the plastics/ wheels off, fully clean/decontaminate the bike, machine/hand polish everything that I can then add some much needed protection. ( ceramic/quartz coatings and acf50 etc)
Im just wondering what I should be inspecting/servicing mechanically while its in this state for peace of mind and future proofing. The dealers all say they will fully check and prep the bike before its released, but I doubt it will be anything other than a check over/fluids top up.
I have looked, but does this resource already exist here anywhere with step by steps etc? I saw the thread about the rear suspension service but am struggling to find anything else
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=4255.msg51068#msg51068
Many thanks!
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CLEAN THE RADIATOR!
Was that loud enough?
Here are the instructions:
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=3035.0
And the latest thinking for cleaning material (Rae's recommendation):
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=4999.45
And for a general read on buying a K1300S, if you haven't found it yet:
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=3984.0
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No, no Richard! The most important thing is to clean the radiator...
The things that will kill a K in the longer term are the radiator becoming clogged on the outside to the extent that it can't be properly cleaned and the exhaust system springing a leak. Almost everything else, suspension, engine, gearbox, clutch etc. can be serviced and or replaced as needed.
The radiator is still available at c. £500 from a genuine BMW dealer on eBay, but once the existing stock is gone from BMW warehouses, who knows? No one in the after market makes or will ever make replacement radiators.
Likewise exhaust systems. As per the recent discussions about whether or not they can be rescued by welding, it is fraught with danger. Again, no one makes replacements. Various replacement upgrade systems were available but now the bike is no longer a current model they are very rare indeed.
Any new owner needs to ensure, by speaking with their local BMW dealer, that all the recalls and non-recall initiatives have been done. For the K13 that amounts to the rear flange and the fuel pump leak if my failing memory hasn't got more clogged passageways than my radiator.
The rear dog-bone work is the easiest way not to die on a K through lack of a little lube
The hot start issue is a bugger if you get it, but it is fixable. Mine, which was quite severe at one point, went away when I changed the battery and didn't come back even when that battery was in the process of dying.
As for the routine stuff, I'm sure we have the service sheets in here somewhere. If we haven't, we should have. They will give you all the normal maintenance details.
Also, you should get yourself a copy of the RepROM, the official BMW workshop manual on dvd (from a dealer for around £100 but they are also getting thin in the ground) as there is no simple alternative such as a Haynes.
If you ask nicely, someone in here may have a spare copy lying around...
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Ok, Going to keep everything in this thread if thats ok from beginning to end. I'll document the process here and upload phots/youtube links
The bike-
A one owner Black 2013 K1300s Sport. Fully stock as far as I can tell. 17k miles. Bought from BMWs non approved used bike division in Preston called 'The used bike wear house'. I think the bike has barley seen a wet day.. until today :angel:, and has only done about 700miles since 2019. Looks like its been a garage queen most of its life and been loved very much!.. Everything on the bike seems tip top, apart from a 'possible' slight radiator overheating issue that Im currently looking into with your much appreciated help and knowledge.
Plans are-
1. Full decontamination of bike dressed then undressed, including treating that pesky radiator to the special foamy stuff. This will include all kinds of lovely snowfoam/prewashes, contact washes, tar remover, fallout remover, clay bar etc etc.
2. Any mechanical servicing/attention needed that normal service/dealer sales prep wouldn't have done. ( Final shaft oil, cleaning/greasing rear suspension linkage bearing, anything else?)
2. 2 stage machine polish of the body work and wheels followed by either a full quartz coating or other Si02 LSP.
3. Addressing any rusty fasteners etc ( i can see a few from behind the fairing etc)
4.Hand/machine polishing everything else needed and protect with relevant coatings ( ACF 50 etc )
5.Add a rear hugger to help keep clean
6.Add some personal touches- Raised bars, Lowered pegs, fake cruise control, black screen, smoked front indicators, change stock silencer)
Cant think of anything else right now, but Im sure theres more. :o
Anything you guys can think of that will help would be much appreciated!
Thanks again for all the help and support so far!
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There is a small but effective rear piece that keeps the crap off. Brian will be along soon to tell you about it.
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As for the routine stuff, I'm sure we have the service sheets in here somewhere. If we haven't, we should have. They will give you all the normal maintenance details.
Also, you should get yourself a copy of the RepROM, the official BMW workshop manual on dvd (from a dealer for around £100 but they are also getting thin in the ground) as there is no simple alternative such as a Haynes.
If you ask nicely, someone in here may have a spare copy lying around...
Did a quick search.. is this the right thing-
https://www.s1000rrforum.com/threads/bmw-rsd-09-2017-iso-file-repair-and-service-data-including-instructions.243943/
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I will PM you a link.
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There is a small but effective rear piece that keeps the crap off. Brian will be along soon to tell you about it.
And now as rare as hen's teeth with the accordingly silly prices for what is just moulded plastic.
I was reduced to removing mine from my previous bike to install on the next.
The part number is:
BMW 46627675424
Looks like this (pic from ebay US - don't buy it - the P&P is obscene):
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~toAAOSwgOhhL7xz/s-l1600.jpg)
Also see discussion here, about the lovely Ilmberger carbon hugger and the rear extender combined:
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=5251.0
[EDIT: ah, sorry Rae, we clashed. But you may have another part number - I think there are two.]
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The 2013 K1300S Sport had all the optional extras except the Akra.
(https://www.old-gits.org/images/DavidMc_Pics/PHOT0402.JPG)
(https://www.old-gits.org/images/DavidMc_Pics/PHOT0406.JPG)
I had to pay extra for the Akra. ;D
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The BMW part number is...
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=0509-USA-01-2010-K40-BMW-K_1300_S_0508,0509_&mg=77&sg=31&diagId=77_0114&q=46627675424
...but this like thingy works better...
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0509-USA-01-2010-K40-BMW-K_1300_S_0508,0509_&diagId=77_0114
Don't bother with the BMW screws (extra) as they are made of rusty stuff. Buy some stainless self-tappers and rear easy.
Whatever the price now, they are worth their weight in, well, plastic as well as blood, sweat and tears. Much more effective at keeping the crud off the back end than a mega-expensive hugger.
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REAR MUD GAURD EXTENDER-
Ok great thanks for heads up, I will get one ordered. although I.am really struggling to find any online... Does anyone have any links? The one you shared doesn't seem to have a buy option.
what sizes self tapping screws do i need? Do you have a link?
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REAR HUGGER-
I should get one of these too. Il be riding through all seasons so it will only help right keep parts of the bike clean
Power bronze one seems to be the way forward, but anyone had any experience with this one?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325905679512?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sZZ_Fa3wR3-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CbeZ9vJsSs2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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REAR MUD GAURD EXTENDER-
Ok great thanks for heads up, I will get one ordered. although I.am really struggling to find any online... Does anyone have any links? The one you shared doesn't seem to have a buy option.
what sizes self tapping screws do i need? Do you have a link?
They are like rocking horse feathers now. They were shipped with all K12 bikes (don't know about K13's) but the customer, who never knew they were available, had to request they were fitted at delivery time...
When I needed new screws for the one on my K12 (fitted from standard) North Oxford had no idea what I was talking about. When I showed the parts manager he looked a little perplexed and then said 'Oh, those black wing things. We have a box full of them in stores and I always wondered what they were...' I should have bought the box full then and there.
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I think it may already have one on it. Il.post a pic in a few hrs when I get a minute on the laptop
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(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1w6u1gQmLTQExHe-BmOOfjhzr7Kkwi_FV)
Is this it? ???
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You are one lucky son of a gun! Even nicer buy!
As Richard found out, two K13's riding in convoy, swapping the lead occasionally, in exactly the same shite weather conditions, one with and one without the mudguard is a real life, real world example of aerodynamics in action.
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Thank goodness! One less thing to have to sort out :D just a rear hugger and the back ends sorted
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Hello Forcefield and welcome to the fountain of knowledge. I have a spare RepRom disc you can have it's dated 09-2015 so should be good for you bike, if you send me a message with your address i'll drop it in the post.
Best regards and Happy new year Mick
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I applaud you Mick! Very generous of you. Hope you have a great festive time. Brian
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Felicitations to you too Brian, I'm sure the new guy will save lots of time by scrutinising the forum for info, saved me loads of agro.
Best regards and Happy new year
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Hello Forcefield and welcome to the fountain of knowledge. I have a spare RepRom disc you can have it's dated 09-2015 so should be good for you bike, if you send me a message with your address i'll drop it in the post.
Best regards and Happy new year Mick
Many many thanks Mick! Thats super kind of you! I managed to download a version from another kind member, but having problems unzipping it for some reason. Im a Mac user and my windows laptop is ancient. I did managed to get online a 2017 version -
Is this the same thing?
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1R3mudwN3LfMzNJQSlxAZkWawk5Nwot7i)
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Felicitations to you too Brian, I'm sure the new guy will save lots of time by scrutinising the forum for info, saved me loads of agro.
Best regards and Happy new year
Ive basically been living on this forum reading every thing I can about the bike! Its ben a really great source of knowledge and you are all super nice people!
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Ok, here comes a few updates.
Firstly a very happy returns for the new year to all of you and I hope you survived the Christmas choas!
PADDOCK STANDS-
After much researching, and unable to source an ABBA stand I settled for these-
FRONT
https://www.ghostbikes.com/products/5145-black-pro-range-wheel-chock-(b5145).html?sv1=affiliate&sv_campaign_id=626889&awc=2695_1703877149_5ee87a774a05df7b87cf2b12aed15bc0&source=aw&utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=626889&utm_campaign=Preisvergleich
BACK
https://jsaccessories.co.uk/product/oxford-products-zero-g-single-sided-paddock-st-54749?variant=151133&utm_source=google&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-bmsBhAGEiwAoaQNmlA9VaGzFstWcxo_0VXKEb0xf1DkFfCF4fEZXsn2xHEzYnWtesby2hoCRVgQAvD_BwE
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Yes, that's the thing you need and the person you got the original from is not normally described as nice...
As for the rest of us, there are really only 3 people in this forum and we are run ragged trying to keep up with all the pseudonyms and false identities, not to mention all the stories we have to fabricate and then continue to make lies about down the years.
I imagine even you are a figment of the imagination of one of the other two, cos you're not mine.
Enjoy the RepROM and don't bother coming back and asking how you find the wiring diagrams because in its infinite(ly) small wisdom, BMW didn't include one. We have 'made up' ones in here somewhere...Brian
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Yes, that's the thing you need and the person you got the original from is not normally described as nice...
As for the rest of us, there are really only 3 people in this forum and we are run ragged trying to keep up with all the pseudonyms and false identities, not to mention all the stories we have to fabricate and then continue to make lies about down the years.
I imagine even you are a figment of the imagination of one of the other two, cos you're not mine.
Enjoy the RepROM and don't bother coming back and asking how you find the wiring diagrams because in its infinite(ly) small wisdom, BMW didn't include one. We have 'made up' ones in here somewhere...Brian
If its any help.. my real names Ritchie :thumbsupgood:
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RADIATOR INSPECTION
So I got the fairing off today for the 1st time, including belly pan and fan.
Heres what it looks like-
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1W1GAQLWYPY5abTjl06ak1r3S1WL1BeoE)
(https://drive.google.com/https:/1Oh0XNZkxbTt_qmsQjwJxuG_hXuB9tWSF)
(https://drive.google.com/1jv9sEvlvVBLN_WDR5gzpTtUKrjyfWcKB)
(https://drive.google.com/1BZJdAIpJwDtMAidI_-ZUXLhvJq93SM5V)
(https://drive.google.com/1JNmvkTJOSCMdeA-oFzQnrjzsJ-aAgIEO)
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can we only upload 1 pic per post?
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(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1Oh0XNZkxbTt_qmsQjwJxuG_hXuB9tWSF)
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(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1jv9sEvlvVBLN_WDR5gzpTtUKrjyfWcKB)
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(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1BZJdAIpJwDtMAidI_-ZUXLhvJq93SM5V)
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You can use multiple images per post.
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You can use multiple images per post.
I tried, by using the upload method in multiple lines in one post, but it only uploaded the 1st picture?
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FAN
Its in good condition apart from the heat shield on the back. Is this replaceable? anyone know where t get this?
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1Bz21zF9AqM2IXEr_WCF0zHdr6eUBAo42)
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All in all its pretty clean under the fairing, although theres some bits that need sorting and looks like a little bit of paint on the engine has already been repaired-
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1E_ypZvFuDS8Kl-Qx6jkMorJPXnnlbZ9K)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1FpV0s26HsDgIGpmISs7e_NC_bRg_oTOU)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1VAQVzTHGHR5AcWSbE7RthBY---g2ACFx)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1o_cXbKsoyGt9qvXIQZIvZ4YL8EjLe-hS)
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Good pics. The radiator looks OK to me, but it's tricky when it's still got flies and dried-on gunk still attached. Not many bashes.
Do post an 'after' picture once you've cleaned it so we can compare 'before' and 'after'.
Self-adhesive heat shield is available on eBay for £15 or so. Someone smarter than me can tell you what to look for.
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Ritchie, that’s the info but the disc only runs on windows, I had the same problem although you can set up the Mac to run windows. ( beyond me) I managed to buy a Toshiba laptop from one of those cash converter places for about £90. To me it was worth it, I hate anyone messing with my bike.
I discounted the front strand as you can’t spin the wheel to clean it. I’d look for an older cup type rear swing arm stand and put a length of steel rod through the front axle.
The disc is invaluable for the torque values alone.
Best regards. Mick
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Self-adhesive heat shield is available on eBay for £15 or so. Someone smarter than me can tell you what to look for.
Actually, having looked at the image again, I wouldn't bother. Its doing 95% of it's job and no one is going to see it.
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OK, so the rad has some furry bits and bobs sticking in the finning which will probably just wash out easily using a hose from back to front. Never use a hose with any pressure or a pressure washer from the front to the back as this will simply drive the crud further into the finning.
You need to use a flashlight and a mirror and get behind the rad to see how much of the finning is clogged, it's difficult to see this from the pics. The worst areas are normally the bottom outer corners.
Karcher sell a 90° swivel head for their pressure washer wands and this is great for getting in behind the rad and washing the crud through from back to the front.
Generally, the principle should be lots and lots of soaking, leaving the water to soften everything followed by some general washing through. Rinse and repeat. Lots.
Engine paint peeling is to be expected on almost any K at the age of your bike assuming it has been used in the winter months. Brian
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Looking good Ritchie, I agree about the front stand, just moved my bikes around and saw the similar stand I have been using left some impressions on the tyre. I came on to the forum today to look for info on stands.
I see you are from the north west, just this morning was reminiscing about a great ride up there in June, stunning road into Bowness on Windermere from the North. Happy day that was for sure.
Good luck with the cleaning.
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Thanks everyone! Spent a full day at it.. many many flushes of the radiator. The foamy stuff hasnt arrived yet, so I found that saturating it with APC, then water, then using a blow dryer to flush out the water was the best method with what I had.
How does it look? is it still blocked?
I use this-
https://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/products/bigboi-blowr-mini.aspx?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=MerchantCentre&variant=9310&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAnL-sBhBnEiwAJRGigplNqiMpBsPCs1S86kwnYlowY5pMSzp7ChtmVQEeLO364Nx2dONWhhoC_t8QAvD_BwE
Its also very handy for drying off the bike after a wash. If you've never used one before you will be amazed at how much water is lurking in the crevices. You get cheaper dog grooming ones that are just as good.
Is it worth getting a front mud guard extender?
As for the flaking paint, its going to be a bit of a pain to sort as theres no way Im dismantling the bike. Il just have t do my best with most things in situ.
Does anyone know what paints best to match the engine? I have a tin of satin black halfords Engine paint.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1errBLY7VeTlBM97iGQejNE2WAthg-ggr)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1YLHavG4dF012VUBzi9lsO6YRviCbgEpO)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1EBGptbR12brLSJVFg0Nn1zuI-oxhF7G7)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1kJOJVd5Ry_Rt6tlX76lLPQPM_vyA7cxY)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=155KbLKDtZfSZgmNhbZfqM0ETfvrSMlpx)
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Is anyone able to confirm what this is and if its ok to take if off? Theres quite a bit of flaking paint behind it that would be much easier to sort if Im able to remove it.
Many thanks! Early night for me and then another day of tackling that awful paint.
Many thanks,
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1uk4gAwakaiPCZwUCX5j3QL7SmkrMLnjJ)
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I believe that's the cam chain tensioner. I've never taken it off but people replace em I recall. There's probably a thread on this forum :).
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I believe that's the cam chain tensioner. I've never taken it off but people replace em I recall. There's probably a thread on this forum :).
thanks so Much, il have a search now! :download:
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Heres the radiator from front on. AM I right in saying its still almost completley blocked. Theres a patch near the middle that looks somewhat unblocked. is the whole radiator ment to look like that one patch?
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1lCG-bBhh_hYJP7o3_Tn_FkU2HB4WYLAb)
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Hmm, comparing it to the photos in this thread (https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=5211.msg63235#msg63235) do look much clearer.
But I'll defer to the others here as I seem to be the only one to never have rad clogging (although I was doing so many miles and seeing BMW so frequently I think we went with "they probably cleaned it")
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It's tricky to say since you can only see straight through when exactly perpendicular to the curved surface, so it's probably better than it looks in the photo, but I think Rae's magical-but-vicious cleaner will do the trick of shifting more bits out of the fins.
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And black paint - there's a Hammerite smooth satin black that is pretty close for touching up - not sure about bigger areas though. It wasn't noticeable on my previous bike (but only a 3x5cm area), and was still well attached after a couple of years.
Worth trying a test patch?
Rae will know the exact version. Rae knows everything. ;D ;D
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"You Rang"?
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:winkthumbs:
Hammerite - which one to use, Rae?
I think it was Direct to Rust satin black - i.e. not glossy.
And clean the surface, etc.
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I used to put sticky plastic tape from B&Q across my radiator from just above the v to the very bottom from when they salt the roads till Spring. Also, as part of the 18,000 mile service I used to ask the mechanic to put the radiator under the outside tap to flush as much of the crap off as he could. From memory my last rad lasted around 6 years and was still working well with no overheating even with the tape onwhen I sold the bike 4 weeks ago.
I pick up the new (to me) K1600 on Thursday and intend taping up the radiator as soon as I can.
Out of interest the K1600’s use the same rad as the K12/1300’s so there should be a plentiful supply for many years to come
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Heres the radiator from front on. AM I right in saying its still almost completley blocked. Theres a patch near the middle that looks somewhat unblocked. is the whole radiator ment to look like that one patch?
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1lCG-bBhh_hYJP7o3_Tn_FkU2HB4WYLAb)
No one can tell if it is blocked with the pics you are posting.
As you have the fan off, get a small mirror (3 or 4" mirror from a make-up compact is good) and a flashlight. Shine the light through from the front and use the mirror behind the radiator to see if you can see through every crack and crevice. None 'should' be blocked but some are bound to be.
If you have 3 hands or a light on a stand, you can even take pics of the view through the mirror from the side. Simples!
It is OK to use wooden toothpicks/cocktail sticks to poke through the crud but don't use anything metallic. Old toothbrushes are OK (assuming you have old teeth) for lihtly scrubbing and wiggling in the crooks and nannies. Remember, the radiator core is aluminium and is easily damaged.
Also, you will have realised how much of a pig it is to get the top bolt (? Can't remember if it the top or bottom) out of the fan mount on the right hand side. While it is out, file flats on it so you can use a Spaniard to tighten it back up rather than fiddling with the screwdriver at a gawd-awful angle. Brian
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:winkthumbs:
Hammerite - which one to use, Rae?
I think it was Direct to Rust satin black - i.e. not glossy.
And clean the surface, etc.
Yes Rich that's the one, If it's for the engine I would paint it on when the engine is warm (not hot) about 50 C and leave it for a few days it is a slow drying Alkyd paint that once cured is very durable. Remove any loose or flaky bits and rub down with 400 grit before applying.
Keep buying Hammerite and polycell products chaps, it pays my pension :winkthumbs: or any Akzo Nobel product come to that.
PS: if applying to casings or bits on show I would go down to 6 or even 8 hundred grit and use an aerosol version.
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Alaskier, thanks for that bit of info about th K1600 radiators, i was toying with buying a new one while they’re still
Accessible, mines working a treat but you never know !
Mine will be coming off in the next week or so for it’s annual clean and refill
Happy new year. Mick
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The K1600 rad is almost identical. The top mounts are different - the 1300 mounts are symmetrical, the 1600 are asymmetrical:
[EDIT: and even the low one looks to be a different shape]
K1300:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qh8AAOSwMGVlVMkw/s-l1600.png)
Image courtesy of eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394890657986
K1600:
(https://www.kfm-motorraeder.de/webimg/bmw/bmw_17117726416.jpg)
Image courtesy of https://www.kfm-motorraeder.de/en/item/bmw-17117726416
The bad news is that those mounts look pop-riveted to me (from eBay):
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/FpcAAOSwDX5lU5I1/s-l1600.jpg)
So you may need some skill/care to replace/rework them.
But still a good spot! Will be useful to restorers in a few year's time.
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Who knows with a bit of creative bracketry it might be doable.
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Great trick with the light and mirror Brian! So after another few hrs of soaking and flushing, Id say that the rad now looks 'mostly' clear. I'll wait for the magic foam to arrive and give it another go then! The photo doesnt quite catch the right angle but its the best I could get...
I really didnt realise how just a slight change of angle changes how the fins look! ???
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1JL36PmRvL42wBeJ2lBqoyZfC0k5DiEyO)
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I'm very tempted to take off the downpipes to properly sort the paint out and also sort/replace those nasty rusty bolts. Or am I potentially just making more problems for myself?
Ive already snapped off one of the bolts that holds on the front mud guard :'(
Would this be all I needed- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126039976812?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=EB172397009&
I found this manual online for reference-
https://www.cyclegear.com/assets/0000/2793/akrapovic_exhaust_system_bmwk1300_rs20092013.pdf
Also a very happy New Year to you all and many thanks for all the patience and words of wisdom!
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1hZw9yyNCG3uXAwgy3Eq-2rk-2jlI-5m4)
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BMW have a nasty habit of coating every bolt on the bike with their disgusting Araldite-like thread lock, even the stock fairing bolts. As you found out to your cost, this also includes the mudguard bolts. Think yourself lucky it wasn't the small front axle locking bolts which can snap quite easily and are a bugger to get out when they do. I slacken mine off with alarming regularity to make sure they don't seize...of course, the first time you loosen them could just be the time they break!
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BMW have a nasty habit of coating every bolt on the bike with their disgusting Araldite-like thread lock, even the stock fairing bolts. As you found out to your cost, this also includes the mudguard bolts. Think yourself lucky it wasn't the small front axle locking bolts which can snap quite easily and are a bugger to get out when they do. I slacken mine off with alarming regularity to make sure they don't seize...of course, the first time you loosen them could just be the time they break!
That must be what it was. Luckily it was the top one, so is acccesable from both sides so should be ok to get out. Im going to check and hopefully easily remove the locking bolts ur talking about and have a look :o
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The answer to the dreaded locite is heat, get it up to 100° and it breaks the bond but I still hate the stuff.
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The answer to the dreaded locite is heat, get it up to 100° and it breaks the bond but I still hate the stuff.
How do you do that without melting the fairing?
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Localised heat with a hot air gun for the non-fairing bolts.
Hopefully the fairing will have been off enough times for the yeuk on the fairing bolts to have lost its grip on a bike the age of yours. But as an example, when my K13 was 3 years old I removed the pillion grab handles to fit an Alu-Rack and one of the riv-nuts spun in the rear fame rail, the loctite was so tight. I had to cut the head off the bolt and drillout the nut to fit another one. Nasty, nasty stuff.
Dealer techs only bother with the heat on solid assemblies (and I doubt they even do that).
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You can also use a soldering iron or a soldering torch for vey localised heat.
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Or just leave the engine as it is?
I don't believe the paint makes much (any?) difference to performance, handling or reliability, and the rusty bolts are only surface rust.
It's got a fairing for a reason. ::)
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You can also use a soldering iron or a soldering torch for vey localised heat.
Good shout on the soldering iron :download:
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Or just leave the engine as it is?
I don't believe the paint makes much (any?) difference to performance, handling or reliability, and the rusty bolts are only surface rust.
It's got a fairing for a reason. ::)
Haha, very true... But my OCD couldn't handle that ;D
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I think the nuts that hold the exhaust on are M7 and made of copper.
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I think the nuts that hold the exhaust on are M7 and made of copper.
Your right! All but one them are copper underneath the rust. I'm very tempted to take each one off and clean them and the thread one at a time but don't want to upset the tension of things and potentially cause more issues?
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I'd leave the exhaust nuts alone unless (until?) the exhaust starts blowing. The K has a few oddities with fasteners, so read the RepROM before you try and undo anything. The bolts for the clutch cover are aluminium and single use; the ones that hold the passenger grab rail/ rack on have thread lock and it's easy to trash the rear subframe (the inserts rotate instead of the screws and have to be drilled out); the LH pinch bolts in the fork don't need to be removed to take the wheel out, and the ABS sensor clearance needs to be set if you do.
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I'd leave the exhaust nuts alone unless (until?) the exhaust starts blowing. The K has a few oddities with fasteners, so read the RepROM before you try and undo anything. The bolts for the clutch cover are aluminium and single use; the ones that hold the passenger grab rail/ rack on have thread lock and it's easy to trash the rear subframe (the inserts rotate instead of the screws and have to be drilled out); the LH pinch bolts in the fork don't need to be removed to take the wheel out, and the ABS sensor clearance needs to be set if you do.
Great info! I think I'll leave most things alone that don't need messing with. I managed to paint around the downpipes etc, and clean the bolt heads best I can in place. Il post pics later once everything's cured
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There's sensible see :)
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Had to travel for a few days last week, but heres an update-
ENGINE CORROSION-
While it wont be winning ay beauty contests, its so much better than it was and should see me through to the nicer weather without getting worse than it was. Its was all done lying on the garage floor with not great lighting. I 1st took all the loose stuff off with a wire brush and cleaned the downpipes with soap filled Brillo pads as they were covered in surface rust etc. I then hit the engine with different sized wire brush drill bits and as you can see sooo much more paint came off! I then rubbed it all down with Scotchbrite pads and gave 3 coats of Halfords Very High Temp Matt black paint. I probably could have got better paint but its a pretty good match and its all mostly hidden by the fairing so wasn't to bothered... Only time will how long it will last, but fingers crossed as it was a massive pain in the arse to do! Il probably take the side casings off in the summer and spray them properly.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=12MLW6_M-_V_JijKESyuCzIsKBbLVD-eC)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=18KktwVaJKdEigLf-9xXaXDhgyZ4gmF5L)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1-76cQJDvMZj7j7zEbLpRvnfIW9zTuQSl)
Today I gave the full exhaust a good clean and polish the best I could with it in place. I 1st used WD40 and scotchbrites then Autoglym Metal polish and drill polishing attachments etc to get it the best I could.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1DsepoNykKPerz6QbaHxhPe0c5M_dCjMt)
Also made a start on the plastics. Doing a test on the rear panels. The plastics are all in good condition with just swirl marks from washing and tar etc embedded in clear coat. I did a full decontamination and a 2 step polish using Menzerna Compounds and applied 2 coats their Polymer sealant with a 4hr cure time between coats.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1RgPCEIU6gxG9oW_IAk3qT79RdgKezof6)
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1xcF9wt06id28oF_9VJq0GD2Ehogr0rLM)
The Powerbronze Touring screen and rear hugger arrived today and they look great quality. ( took the sticky 'Powerbronze' badges off straight away!!)
Also the carbon fibre front mud gaurd extender arrived- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285020551204
Feeling exited that the worst of it is over and I can soon start enjoying riding the bike!
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Wow, you even got the insides of the torx bolts. My hat’s off to you sir! :thumbsupgood:
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I see you've got the hang of posting photos :winkthumbs:
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Wow, you even got the insides of the torx bolts. My hat’s off to you sir! :thumbsupgood:
They were actually quite easy to do with these attachments-
https://www.toolstation.com/abracs-decarb-wire-brush-set/p15615
I've still to go round the full bike and clean up lots more of them, although I won't use the wire brush on the ones that don't need it and try to polish up with Dremel attachments etc
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I see you've got the hang of posting photos :winkthumbs:
I still gotta copy and paste the info in the guide each time tho!
Strangely enough, when using mobile, my pics have stopped displaying unless I click and select 'preview image'. Others peoples photos are displaying Fine though, and mine are fine on the laptop. Is that because they are too big?
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Well done! That's good work.
> Also the carbon fibre front mud gaurd extender arrived- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285020551204
That's the nicest one - good pick.
I drilled and bolted mine on. I'm not sure what other people have done, but I didn't want to trust just sticky goo on something that's going to get wind-blasted at xxx mph.
I also cut some of the side carbon off the extender since I felt it was a bit close to the tyre for comfort, but that tweak depends on a) your tyre shape, b) your mudguard type and c) your appetite for risk.
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I stuck my front mudguard extender on with the sticky pad and it survived for 3 years/50K+ miles with some runs at ... er ... autobahn speeds.
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The one thing to be aware of is that on the UK's crap roads (new car tyre courtesy of Gloucestershire County Council last Tuesday night ;D ) is that the constant vibes can cause the extra weight of the extender to crack the mudguard where the sharp contour change is up behind the forks. Subtle cracks in my K12S got worse when I lost the original after-market one and fitted a new one of a different type.
And if the bike starts chirping when you ride it in town that is the tip of the extender touching the tyre...
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Well done! That's good work.
> Also the carbon fibre front mud gaurd extender arrived- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285020551204
That's the nicest one - good pick.
I drilled and bolted mine on. I'm not sure what other people have done, but I didn't want to trust just sticky goo on something that's going to get wind-blasted at xxx mph.
I also cut some of the side carbon off the extender since I felt it was a bit close to the tyre for comfort, but that tweak depends on a) your tyre shape, b) your mudguard type and c) your appetite for risk.
I might use some double sided gorilla tape as well as the sealant. I've used it on other stuff and it's pretty much a permanent fixture. I think the plastics would snap before the product fails. Not sure I want to drill them.
Thanks for the heads up on cutting it. Il have a close look at it once it's fitted.
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The one thing to be aware of is that on the UK's crap roads (new car tyre courtesy of Gloucestershire County Council last Tuesday night ;D ) is that the constant vibes can cause the extra weight of the extender to crack the mudguard where the sharp contour change is up behind the forks. Subtle cracks in my K12S got worse when I lost the original after-market one and fitted a new one of a different type.
And if the bike starts chirping when you ride it in town that is the tip of the extender touching the tyre...
Good to know thanks.and makes sense
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Fasterners-
What do you guys think about these-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325920015116?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=81nHzCCaQzq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CbeZ9vJsSs2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The listing says they can replace both long and short bolts if needed...
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I would beware of going to a one-size-fits-all approach. Some of the bolts (eg left side of the rear of the tank) end up just short of the wiring loom. Not all bolts in the fork carrier are through holes.
Kay's Fasteners (eBay shop is cheaper than their 'real' shop) sell stainless steel screws of the right size in quantities as low as 5 units with free P&P.
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I would beware of going to a one-size-fits-all approach. Some of the bolts (eg left side of the rear of the tank) end up just short of the wiring loom. Not all bolts in the fork carrier are through holes.
Kay's Fasteners (eBay shop is cheaper than their 'real' shop) sell stainless steel screws of the right size in quantities as low as 5 units with free P&P.
Great shout! il.do that :download:
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I'm not a big fan of Stainless Steel bolts. They can cause galvanic corrosion of aluminium and although they are similar strength to carbon steel the properties are different so tightening torques might be wrong. I don't dislike them as much as, say, boxer twin engines but would probably replace bolts like for like rather than with Stainless.
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These are not critical bolts they are only holing plastic parts add a bit of aluminium anti-seize and Bob is your mums brother.
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I've previously bought these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254278766909
They are 2mm shorter than the ones you have selected, and seem to fit on most of the locations I'm missing screws, and hopefully avoid the issue Phmode mentioned about close proximity to the wiring loom. They are not a perfect match to the original BMW screws. Where needed, these can go into the more hidden locations.
Jason
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And if the bike starts chirping when you ride it in town that is the tip of the extender touching the tyre...
Good to know thanks.and makes sense
And the solution is a carbon fibre mudguard, which is much more rigid and won't let the extender chirrup on the tyre.
However, the chirruping doesn't seem to matter other than after 10-20k miles your extender starts to wear away where it (very briefly) touches the tyre / gubbins on tyre.
I'm pretty sure Brian tried to get a batch of one-piece elongated mudguards made in carbon fibre, but no luck unfortunately.
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I'm not a big fan of Stainless Steel bolts. They can cause galvanic corrosion of aluminium and although they are similar strength to carbon steel the properties are different so tightening torques might be wrong. I don't dislike them as much as, say, boxer twin engines but would probably replace bolts like for like rather than with Stainless.
You're right Andy, but these chaps say that that way round (stainless steel bolts into aluminium) can be OK:
https://bssa.org.uk/bssa_articles/bimetallic-galvanic-corrosion/
'Although aluminium is anodic to stainless steel, large relative surface areas of aluminium to stainless steel can be acceptable, dependant on local conditions.'
So it depends on the chunkiness of the aluminium you're screwing the bolt into.
But why have the hassle/worry - just put a bit of ACF50 on the normal ones?
And you're correct on boxer twin engines too. :evil:
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Wow, who would of thought fairing bolts would be so complicated ;D.. thanks for the info, I will sleep on it, and order some spares. Mine are all good tbh, its just the snapped one from the front mudguard that needs replacing, so I thought Id buy a few more spares.
Today I tried the G2G Foam cleaner on the radiator and did a deeper clean on the rest of the bike in preparation for ACF-50 and Gtechnic C4 on the black trim.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1P06TBLpva_x_yuSfnOaiMNCir2eEgrG1)
I must have had a dodgy bottle of G2G as there was hardly any of that lovely foam action that I was looking forward to. I sprayed loads in front and back, waiting 10-15 mins... no foam at all..... sprayed a load more.. waited 10 mins...this time very minimal foam in certain areas or the rad.... sprayed even more... waited again,,, hardy any foam. I then flushed it out and only a tiny bit of brown grime could be seen in the little bit of foam that came out. All in all I used about half a bottle. Im gonna just presume that my rad is now squeaky clean !
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Can someone help me with why my photos are not displaying? are they displaying ok for you?
Everyone else's photos are fine for me. Yesterday they would not display on mobile phone but ok on laptop. Now I've logged into the laptop and its the same there :-\
EDIT/UPDATE- I tried logging into chrome with a different account and I could see the photos fine. I then tried with another 2 accounts and no photos displayed. Very strange. Frustrating thing is, the account I use to access this forum is not displaying my photos.
2nd update- I setup and used imgbb as recommended below, and everything works fine. Its much easier than google drive process also!
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Just use imgbb, it's so much easier to link to actual traditional image files!
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=2500.0
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Can someone help me with why my photos are not displaying? are they displaying ok for you?
Everyone else's photos are fine for me. Yesterday they would not display on mobile phone but ok on laptop. Now I've logged into the laptop and its the same there :-\
EDIT/UPDATE- I tried logging into chrome with a different account and I could see the photos fine. I then tried with another 2 accounts and no photos displayed. Very strange. Frustrating thing is, the account I use to access this forum is not displaying my photos.
Something has changed at Google's end - it's not working for my (Google) images either.
A right-click -> 'open in new tab' shows the image though.
Or just paste the link for the moment, like so:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1P06TBLpva_x_yuSfnOaiMNCir2eEgrG1
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Hi All,
So today I took the tank panels off for polishing/ cleaning underneath and some of the black plastics for coating with C4.
(https://i.ibb.co/bHXmpz9/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-12-at-22-56-51.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z8ZxKGv)
I dropped the battery cover screw down behind the battery, deep into a crevice and had to use super glue and piping to get it out. Took 2 hrs! :-[
Also this fixing randomly fell off on its own while attempting to remove the black plastic air intakes from the top fairing :o
(https://i.ibb.co/Sff8dnF/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-12-at-22-58-22.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6XXx1Pj)
Can anyone shed any light onto how its ment to attach? nothing snapped, it just dropped out on its own..
Heres where it goes-
(https://i.ibb.co/b51rBGW/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-12-at-22-59-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HT7rz9F)
I managed to kinda get it back on, and the plastic trip lines up with the hole, but it doesnt seem right compared to the other side-
(https://i.ibb.co/qRCL3JH/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-12-at-22-59-38.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sFCpdWT)
(https://i.ibb.co/BqM7jZC/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-12-at-22-58-01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WgJdFy2)
Decided to stop for the night while I was ... erm... ahead?
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I also had one break off, but it was still screwed on to the trim (it's for the holding the side trim that runs alonsgide the 'tank' and fairing). The trim is bascially just filling a hole.
These things:
https://www.motocomposites.com/products/matte-plain-fairing-dash-panels-in-100-carbon-fiber-for-bmw-k1300s.html
I glued it back on - nice and tidy at the correct angle compared to the other side - and it broke straight off again after the next ride. Hey ho I thought, it doesn't actually matter since the plastic stays pretty well in place anyway and only moves if you press it.
I took the bike in for a service in the autumn, and when it came back it was fixed. Oooooooo! I've never had a garage fix something and not tell me. So credit to NOG for that silent but sweet fix. I still haven't dared take it apart to look.
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I also had one break off, but it was still screwed on to the trim (it's for the holding the side trim that runs alonsgide the 'tank' and fairing). The trim is bascially just filling a hole.
These things:
https://www.motocomposites.com/products/matte-plain-fairing-dash-panels-in-100-carbon-fiber-for-bmw-k1300s.html
I glued it back on - nice and tidy at the correct angle compared to the other side - and it broke straight off again after the next ride. Hey ho I thought, it doesn't actually matter since the plastic stays pretty well in place anyway and only moves if you press it.
I took the bike in for a service in the autumn, and when it came back it was fixed. Oooooooo! I've never had a garage fix something and not tell me. So credit to NOG for that silent but sweet fix. I still haven't dared take it apart to look.
Thanks for sharing! I'm thinking it was previously glued/repaired also. I'l glue it back on and hope it lasts.
I wonder what glue would work best?
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Ritchie, I did quite a few repairs with a product called Plastex on my lads GSXR’s fairings . I was very impressed with it.
Regards. Mick
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Over the years I’ve found theirs glueing….and then theirs really glueing the basic stuff come out of a tube and then the serious come out of a gun that needs heat.
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I'll give another plug for Milliput two part epoxy putty. In Black of course, but other colours are available. I managed to disassemble the black plastic 'toolbox' on my Honda by repeatedly bashing hard bits of Yorkshire with it.
Some roughing up with a bit of sandpaper and then epoxying it in place, it is not only better than new but feels like it will never come off. And being black epoxy on black plastic means it is an invisible repair. If there is room to put a small fillet behind the tab then even better.
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Thanks for the sticky stuff recommendations! Not had much time last few days to do anything, but heres the progress from Saturday-
Weather was pretty good so got it out into natural light and without the screen and tank panels on, got a deeper clean into the nooks and crannies and up into the front suspension I was only using soft detailing brushes and microfibres, but am going to gat something a bit more abrasive on that sprig to take that crud off
(https://i.ibb.co/fQVgpvQ/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-43-25.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M9yvV69)
(https://i.ibb.co/3BpyRtG/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-46-18.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PwcZDB3)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZdjGg1x/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-45-49.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mJjbyF4)
Headlight, front fairing and frame got a machine polish and polymer coating
(https://i.ibb.co/vDBsM2W/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-48-39.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zN58tKg)
(https://i.ibb.co/3RmNN6F/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-42-35.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9ZHTTK4)
(https://i.ibb.co/CHnTmb6/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-43-58.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vjJKV3h)
I couldn't find a T50 torx so the rear wheel got a machine polish in place and a high temp alloy wheel wax applied
(https://i.ibb.co/K5cmGF6/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-44-36.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sgptPyj)
Had enough of that front wheel chock, so ordered a proper front stand from Motorworks, but its going to take 2 weeks to arrive so the front wheel will have to wait till then,-
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/front-assembly-stand-aca02039-2.html
Oh and I started on the black trim. If you've never heard of or used Gtechnic C4 before, I can recommend it enough. I should have took a before and after, and will on the other bits, but the difference it makes is really amazing. and even better it lasts for up to 2 years! I did the full lower belly pan section and it looks like an entirely new panel!
(https://i.ibb.co/XZBB4P9/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-16-at-20-42-19.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SXTTxg2)
Just need to treat a few more trim panels, coat the engine etc in acf50, polish/wax the front wheel, assemble panels, and then its onto some of the other more practical/mechanical upgrades/servicing!
Ive still not dissasembled/greased the rear suspension bearing. Been reading the other threads and my rear paddock stand wont allow it? :(
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You went the imgbb route then :winkthumbs:
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It is looking really good. From someone who can only just summon the enthusiasm to rub mine over with a wet sponge every couple of months, I don't know how you have such determination. Seeing it come together though must make it easier, and I'm starting to feel a little inspired.
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It is looking really good. From someone who can only just summon the enthusiasm to rub mine over with a wet sponge every couple of months, I don't know how you have such determination. Seeing it come together though must make it easier, and I'm starting to feel a little inspired.
:download:
I have to agree 100% with this though also feeling a little guilty at not looking after mine quite as intensely!
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Haha, I actually quite enjoy the process. And its good knowing I'm future proofing the bike. It also makes cleaning it so much easier moving forward. The right products really help too. Im happy to share a list of what I use. if your going to make this much effort then its better to use protective coatings that last for months rather than weeks. Im not a fan of lathering the whole bike in acf-50, and will keep that for just the mechanical parts.
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Its shocking how limited/discontinued parts are for this bike!
Been trying to find the best footrest lowering kit for my lanky legs. Im 6ft 3inch on a good day. :afro:
Im down to these options-
1. MandP- £89
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142419681672?hash=item2128dfe188:g:SsEAAOSwvflZR~41&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0JtREFTUsPXPwSV9JS8FAi8DLMvAE7Mpw%2BH3N66vsFrQsnn4CjEyfC0C3U4bQmSxkkaQT10sHhhAai00HzO7IKjU%2F1Lv7qKcUF9Xov5nLq2lSPDCk%2FIXV1E6ypJwtBm6rGdMpFxz%2BXwQfTyFd8kQgVnIzM8ZTFev7Iq6Yc9DicuWpZ7oJ4vQE3WZQ4TyB7EK6kJ5%2FZz%2FUCRKCZDDWxgXEh8da0qiEVeLfRdpfmMQ1ygwCbYrkTfYPwmrywKzMUwTwWTC7HF2KrYeYt%2B8lNxbrGk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7KM1PmiYw
The price of these is pretty good and I believe 50mm is the max Im going to get anywhere? they also do a 30mm and 23mm.
2.Hornig- £150
They say on their site that 50mm is not recommended for the driver. Is this due to the relation with the gears/brake lever? The max they then supply is 30mm . I do like the look of the super grip footrests though for longer journeys-
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-S/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Vario-Plate-Adapter.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Driver-Vario-Footrest-System.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Super-Grip-Footrest.html
Shinobi- £70
These ones are 40mm, and a really great price. Might be worth a try?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234632284115?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3ASellerInitiatedOffer%7Cni_apos%3A2%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A2%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A658062879962%7Cni_nsid%3A234632284115%7Cni_et%3A1705878129760%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997&ul_noapp=true
At the end of the day, Il pay whatever the price is for the right part. I just want to be comfortable, and even though Ive only riden the bike 3 times so far, it was very obvious that the standard pegs were way to high for me so Im wanting the maximum possible adjustment.
Any one got any of the above fitted that can help advise?
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Hello Ritchie, great job on the bike. i looked at the front stand but wasn't happy with just hooking it in to the calliper mount so I made one similar with a shaft that fits thru the front spindle, i know it's no good for wheel removal but it's a lot more stable for cleaning the wheel, I'm fortunate to have a centre stand and being an R there's access to some threaded lugs on the crank cases so I made a jacking stand so I don't have to jack up off the headers, I don't think the lugs a accessible on the S.
Best regards mick
(https://i.ibb.co/X3s503c/IMG-1890.jpgwidth1000)(https://i.ibb.co/M7vsTCh/IMG-1335.jpgwidth1000)
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Its shocking how limited/discontinued parts are for this bike!
Been trying to find the best footrest lowering kit for my lanky legs. Im 6ft 3inch on a good day. :afro:
Im down to these options-
1. MandP- £89
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142419681672?hash=item2128dfe188:g:SsEAAOSwvflZR~41&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0JtREFTUsPXPwSV9JS8FAi8DLMvAE7Mpw%2BH3N66vsFrQsnn4CjEyfC0C3U4bQmSxkkaQT10sHhhAai00HzO7IKjU%2F1Lv7qKcUF9Xov5nLq2lSPDCk%2FIXV1E6ypJwtBm6rGdMpFxz%2BXwQfTyFd8kQgVnIzM8ZTFev7Iq6Yc9DicuWpZ7oJ4vQE3WZQ4TyB7EK6kJ5%2FZz%2FUCRKCZDDWxgXEh8da0qiEVeLfRdpfmMQ1ygwCbYrkTfYPwmrywKzMUwTwWTC7HF2KrYeYt%2B8lNxbrGk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7KM1PmiYw
The price of these is pretty good and I believe 50mm is the max Im going to get anywhere? they also do a 30mm and 23mm.
2.Hornig- £150
They say on their site that 50mm is not recommended for the driver. Is this due to the relation with the gears/brake lever? The max they then supply is 30mm . I do like the look of the super grip footrests though for longer journeys-
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-S/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Vario-Plate-Adapter.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Driver-Vario-Footrest-System.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Super-Grip-Footrest.html
Shinobi- £70
These ones are 40mm, and a really great price. Might be worth a try?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234632284115?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3ASellerInitiatedOffer%7Cni_apos%3A2%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A2%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A658062879962%7Cni_nsid%3A234632284115%7Cni_et%3A1705878129760%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997&ul_noapp=true
At the end of the day, Il pay whatever the price is for the right part. I just want to be comfortable, and even though Ive only riden the bike 3 times so far, it was very obvious that the standard pegs were way to high for me so Im wanting the maximum possible adjustment.
Any one got any of the above fitted that can help advise?
Be aware that getting the standard pegs onto the floor while road riding is not too much of a challenge (good roads allowing) so lowering them will make things more likely to touch down.
-
Its shocking how limited/discontinued parts are for this bike!
Been trying to find the best footrest lowering kit for my lanky legs. Im 6ft 3inch on a good day. :afro:
Im down to these options-
1. MandP- £89
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142419681672?hash=item2128dfe188:g:SsEAAOSwvflZR~41&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0JtREFTUsPXPwSV9JS8FAi8DLMvAE7Mpw%2BH3N66vsFrQsnn4CjEyfC0C3U4bQmSxkkaQT10sHhhAai00HzO7IKjU%2F1Lv7qKcUF9Xov5nLq2lSPDCk%2FIXV1E6ypJwtBm6rGdMpFxz%2BXwQfTyFd8kQgVnIzM8ZTFev7Iq6Yc9DicuWpZ7oJ4vQE3WZQ4TyB7EK6kJ5%2FZz%2FUCRKCZDDWxgXEh8da0qiEVeLfRdpfmMQ1ygwCbYrkTfYPwmrywKzMUwTwWTC7HF2KrYeYt%2B8lNxbrGk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7KM1PmiYw
The price of these is pretty good and I believe 50mm is the max Im going to get anywhere? they also do a 30mm and 23mm.
2.Hornig- £150
They say on their site that 50mm is not recommended for the driver. Is this due to the relation with the gears/brake lever? The max they then supply is 30mm . I do like the look of the super grip footrests though for longer journeys-
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-S/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Vario-Plate-Adapter.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Driver-Vario-Footrest-System.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Super-Grip-Footrest.html
Shinobi- £70
These ones are 40mm, and a really great price. Might be worth a try?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234632284115?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3ASellerInitiatedOffer%7Cni_apos%3A2%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A2%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A658062879962%7Cni_nsid%3A234632284115%7Cni_et%3A1705878129760%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997&ul_noapp=true
At the end of the day, Il pay whatever the price is for the right part. I just want to be comfortable, and even though Ive only riden the bike 3 times so far, it was very obvious that the standard pegs were way to high for me so Im wanting the maximum possible adjustment.
Any one got any of the above fitted that can help advise?
Be aware that getting the standard pegs onto the floor while road riding is not too much of a challenge (good roads allowing) so lowering them will make things more likely to touch down.
Do you think this is why the 50mm is not recommended?
-
Hello Ritchie, great job on the bike. i looked at the front stand but wasn't happy with just hooking it in to the calliper mount so I made one similar with a shaft that fits thru the front spindle, i know it's no good for wheel removal but it's a lot more stable for cleaning the wheel, I'm fortunate to have a centre stand and being an R there's access to some threaded lugs on the crank cases so I made a jacking stand so I don't have to jack up off the headers, I don't think the lugs a accessible on the S.
Best regards mick
(https://i.ibb.co/X3s503c/IMG-1890.jpgwidth1000)(https://i.ibb.co/M7vsTCh/IMG-1335.jpgwidth1000)
Nice job on the stands, they look great! il take some pictures, but i did notice some marks on my forks where a similar stand might have been used before. Id like to think that its safe enough to use as is, as Ive not got the skill or tools to fabricate something like you have..
-
Its shocking how limited/discontinued parts are for this bike!
Been trying to find the best footrest lowering kit for my lanky legs. Im 6ft 3inch on a good day. :afro:
Im down to these options-
1. MandP- £89
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142419681672?hash=item2128dfe188:g:SsEAAOSwvflZR~41&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0JtREFTUsPXPwSV9JS8FAi8DLMvAE7Mpw%2BH3N66vsFrQsnn4CjEyfC0C3U4bQmSxkkaQT10sHhhAai00HzO7IKjU%2F1Lv7qKcUF9Xov5nLq2lSPDCk%2FIXV1E6ypJwtBm6rGdMpFxz%2BXwQfTyFd8kQgVnIzM8ZTFev7Iq6Yc9DicuWpZ7oJ4vQE3WZQ4TyB7EK6kJ5%2FZz%2FUCRKCZDDWxgXEh8da0qiEVeLfRdpfmMQ1ygwCbYrkTfYPwmrywKzMUwTwWTC7HF2KrYeYt%2B8lNxbrGk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7KM1PmiYw
The price of these is pretty good and I believe 50mm is the max Im going to get anywhere? they also do a 30mm and 23mm.
2.Hornig- £150
They say on their site that 50mm is not recommended for the driver. Is this due to the relation with the gears/brake lever? The max they then supply is 30mm . I do like the look of the super grip footrests though for longer journeys-
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-S/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Vario-Plate-Adapter.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Driver-Vario-Footrest-System.html
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-K-1300-R/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Super-Grip-Footrest.html
Shinobi- £70
These ones are 40mm, and a really great price. Might be worth a try?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234632284115?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3ASellerInitiatedOffer%7Cni_apos%3A2%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A2%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A658062879962%7Cni_nsid%3A234632284115%7Cni_et%3A1705878129760%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997&ul_noapp=true
At the end of the day, Il pay whatever the price is for the right part. I just want to be comfortable, and even though Ive only riden the bike 3 times so far, it was very obvious that the standard pegs were way to high for me so Im wanting the maximum possible adjustment.
Any one got any of the above fitted that can help advise?
Be aware that getting the standard pegs onto the floor while road riding is not too much of a challenge (good roads allowing) so lowering them will make things more likely to touch down.
Do you think this is why the 50mm is not recommended?
It may well be. I'd not want the pegs any lower so my recommendation would be none. It all depends on how enthusiastically you ride. If you "make progress" then peg lowering may result in some issues. If your a "driving Miss Daisy" rider then there will be no issues. Obviously, riding with a pillion will likely reduce the amount of lean (unless your pillion is a make progress fan) but it will further reduce the peg to tarmac distance as the bike rides lower.
-
Haha, I actually quite enjoy the process. And its good knowing I'm future proofing the bike. It also makes cleaning it so much easier moving forward. The right products really help too. Im happy to share a list of what I use. if your going to make this much effort then its better to use protective coatings that last for months rather than weeks. Im not a fan of lathering the whole bike in acf-50, and will keep that for just the mechanical parts.
It would be really helpful to know what products you use and recommend, and also the tools you use. I saw the small polisher in one of your photos, and that looks pretty useful for small areas found on a bike.
-
It may well be. I'd not want the pegs any lower so my recommendation would be none. It all depends on how enthusiastically you ride. If you "make progress" then peg lowering may result in some issues. If your a "driving Miss Daisy" rider then there will be no issues. Obviously, riding with a pillion will likely reduce the amount of lean (unless your pillion is a make progress fan) but it will further reduce the peg to tarmac distance as the bike rides lower.
David, having seen some of your posted photos of the lean angles you achieve on your H2 SX SE, I'm not surprised you are dragging footpegs on the ground, probably along with knees, elbows, shoulders and ears ;D. I've not managed to ground mine yet, so I'm obviously of the "driving Miss Daisy" persuasion.
-
It may well be. I'd not want the pegs any lower so my recommendation would be none. It all depends on how enthusiastically you ride. If you "make progress" then peg lowering may result in some issues. If your a "driving Miss Daisy" rider then there will be no issues. Obviously, riding with a pillion will likely reduce the amount of lean (unless your pillion is a make progress fan) but it will further reduce the peg to tarmac distance as the bike rides lower.
David, having seen some of your posted photos of the lean angles you achieve on your H2 SX SE, I'm not surprised you are dragging footpegs on the ground, probably along with knees, elbows, shoulders and ears ;D. I've not managed to ground mine yet, so I'm obviously of the "driving Miss Daisy" persuasion.
Im probably in between the two worlds :angel:. I wonder how other people with lower footpegs are getting on with them? Im trauling the older threads but cant find anyone with issues.
-
It would be really helpful to know what products you use and recommend, and also the tools you use. I saw the small polisher in one of your photos, and that looks pretty useful for small areas found on a bike.
Il do a round up of everything for you!
-
Re: footpegs, 50mm is 2 bloody inches. Aren't motorbikes about 9" off the ground? I'd need to measure it, but I defo wouldn't put them on, and I'm a proper Miss Daisy.
I would get some less extreme ones - 30mm or so. I seem to remember the M&P ones come in different heights.
Having tried them, if you find you still need more space, then add some padding in the seat but I wouldn't go lower unless they fold. But try a few rides first. Seriously, I have now mostly got used to the (lack of) space. Famous last words.
And make sure they fold!
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Re: footpegs, 50mm is 2 bloody inches. Aren't motorbikes about 9" off the ground? I'd need to measure it, but I defo wouldn't put them on, and I'm a proper Miss Daisy.
I would get some less extreme ones - 30mm or so. I seem to remember the M&P ones come in different heights.
Having tried them, if you find you still need more space, then add some padding in the seat but I wouldn't go lower unless they fold. But try a few rides first. Seriously, I have now mostly got used to the (lack of) space. Famous last words.
And make sure they fold!
Thanks for the insight. I messaged MandP direct and they said ground clearance or brake/gear ergonomics wouldn't be an issue with the 50mm ones so Im a little bit stuck on this one for now. i guess all I can do is order some and see how I get on. There is another brand that is adjustable from 20mm-50mm that I might go for but will be around £150 for the full kit-
https://sportouring.com/product/mfw-vario-25-to-50-mm-extension-arms-051002550-051-00-25-50/
-
In other news---
I took out the air filters and they looked like this-
(https://i.ibb.co/Ks59ByJ/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6ty4Gsk)
(https://i.ibb.co/6HFz0w8/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N9K52Cr)
They are dated 2013. Am I right in thinking they only need changing at 24k?
https://maintenanceschedule.com/bmw-k-1300-s-maintenance-schedule/
I ordered a set of K&Ns anyway for £65. :evil:
https://www.knfilters.co.uk/bm-1205-replacement-air-filter
Also fixed the heat shield on back of fan with some exhaust tape I had lying around ready for reinstalling-
(https://i.ibb.co/zSkmdkw/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tbdHRd5)
Cleaned up then polished/coated the filler cap -
(https://i.ibb.co/6wBj08T/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8sc1gbf)
Polymer coated the tank and fitted the filler cap/plastic centre panel-
(https://i.ibb.co/sgpFfPd/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VL0v1Nc)
Then began Coating the engine and other bits with ACF-50 by brush, and also coated the rear hugger with C4 in prep for fitting but didn't get any pics of that. :-\
Just ordered some threadlock for reassembly and a hss drill bit, as the ones I have aren't strong enough to drill into the front mudguard broken screw head.
Hopefully tomorrow will get the more acf50 applied and rear hugger fitted, although I might have to finally tackle that rear suspension joint :(
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Re: footpegs, 50mm is 2 bloody inches. Aren't motorbikes about 9" off the ground? I'd need to measure it, but I defo wouldn't put them on, and I'm a proper Miss Daisy.
I would get some less extreme ones - 30mm or so. I seem to remember the M&P ones come in different heights.
Having tried them, if you find you still need more space, then add some padding in the seat but I wouldn't go lower unless they fold. But try a few rides first. Seriously, I have now mostly got used to the (lack of) space. Famous last words.
And make sure they fold!
Thanks for the insight. I messaged MandP direct and they said ground clearance or brake/gear ergonomics wouldn't be an issue with the 50mm ones so Im a little bit stuck on this one for now. i guess all I can do is order some and see how I get on. There is another brand that is adjustable from 20mm-50mm that I might go for but will be around £150 for the full kit-
https://sportouring.com/product/mfw-vario-25-to-50-mm-extension-arms-051002550-051-00-25-50/
And... I'm wrong. Height from ground:
- Footpeg: 13"
- Gear (on mine) 10-10.5"
It's the outside of your foot/toe that touches first, if I remember rightly. I have (very rarely) touched down once or twice, but not through sporty riding - just bumpy roads and leaving my feet dangling.
Like you say - give it a go - and tell us how you go. We might need them too!
-
Re: footpegs, 50mm is 2 bloody inches. Aren't motorbikes about 9" off the ground? I'd need to measure it, but I defo wouldn't put them on, and I'm a proper Miss Daisy.
I would get some less extreme ones - 30mm or so. I seem to remember the M&P ones come in different heights.
Having tried them, if you find you still need more space, then add some padding in the seat but I wouldn't go lower unless they fold. But try a few rides first. Seriously, I have now mostly got used to the (lack of) space. Famous last words.
And make sure they fold!
Thanks for the insight. I messaged MandP direct and they said ground clearance or brake/gear ergonomics wouldn't be an issue with the 50mm ones so Im a little bit stuck on this one for now. i guess all I can do is order some and see how I get on. There is another brand that is adjustable from 20mm-50mm that I might go for but will be around £150 for the full kit-
https://sportouring.com/product/mfw-vario-25-to-50-mm-extension-arms-051002550-051-00-25-50/
And... I'm wrong. Height from ground:
- Footpeg: 13"
- Gear (on mine) 10-10.5"
It's the outside of your foot/toe that touches first, if I remember rightly. I have (very rarely) touched down once or twice, but not through sporty riding - just bumpy roads and leaving my feet dangling.
Like you say - give it a go - and tell us how you go. We might need them too!
Will do!
-
Having an absolute nightmare getting this bolt out-
(https://i.ibb.co/ZSyjh3q/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-21-at-23-07-29.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C6xcnqR)
Been through multiple cobalt hss drill bits. Hardly making a dent in it. tried heating it with a solder also.
Is tungsten carbine bits the way to go?
-
Maybe try using a dremel to make a straight cut across it then use a long handled screwdriver to unscrew it. Worked for me after stripping a screw head.
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Maybe try using a dremel to make a straight cut across it then use a long handled screwdriver to unscrew it. Worked for me after stripping a screw head.
Which attachment would you use for this? I do have a set. Unfortunately the screw is below level with the bracket so the cutting disc would cause some damage to the bike
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I would use the diamond (?) coated cutting wheel but only if it was accessible. Maybe an oscillator with a narrow blade might do the trick.
Sorry I can’t supply a pick but I don’t feel like frustrating myself with photos tonight. Thanks to the admin for explaining why people can’t throw in pics willy nilly.
-
I’m as guilty as the next for buying junk was filling my boots with the latest in Lidl yesterday but when needs must it’s Machine Mart and is a shock when one has to pay £50 and upwards for a small set,but they do get the job done.
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Try heat followed by Shock and Unlock and left handed drill bit.
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What speed are you using for the drill? For a small drill it needs to be quite high otherwise the bit won't cut in properly. High speed and cutting oil to stop overheating.
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In other news---
I took out the air filters and they looked like this-
(https://i.ibb.co/Ks59ByJ/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6ty4Gsk)
(https://i.ibb.co/6HFz0w8/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N9K52Cr)
They are dated 2013. Am I right in thinking they only need changing at 24k?
https://maintenanceschedule.com/bmw-k-1300-s-maintenance-schedule/
I ordered a set of K&Ns anyway for £65. :evil:
Looking at the picture of your air filter reminds me of the one I changed in my K1300GT a few months ago!
Bike was purchased new and all services carried out by previous owners when due and yet it was dated 2011 and had obviously never been changed.
Not sure what the service schedule recommends for replacement but bike had done @23k when I put the new one in and was well overdue for replacement IMHO.
Made a huge difference in economy… 49.5->50.4 mpg! ;D
Went off K&N a few years ago when I bought one for my Thunderace and it was a very poor fit so ended up purchasing another OEM.
Bought a pair for my Audi A8 at the same time along with a service kit but they were an even worse fit and I didn’t really fancy coating my MAF sensors & inlet manifolds with a fine oil mist so I put OEM filters back in.
Proper bayonet fit not a monster diameter jubilee clip that fits where it touches and was almost impossible to tighten up.
-=Glyn=-
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Thanks for all the info guys!
I've ordered the following
1. Solid carbide drill bits
2. Freeze and shock
3. Pencil sized blow torch. I tried a solder iron but it didn't seem to heat things up much
-
In other news---
I took out the air filters and they looked like this-
(https://i.ibb.co/Ks59ByJ/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6ty4Gsk)
(https://i.ibb.co/6HFz0w8/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-20-at-20-40-21-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N9K52Cr)
They are dated 2013. Am I right in thinking they only need changing at 24k?
https://maintenanceschedule.com/bmw-k-1300-s-maintenance-schedule/
I ordered a set of K&Ns anyway for £65. :evil:
Looking at the picture of your air filter reminds me of the one I changed in my K1300GT a few months ago!
Bike was purchased new and all services carried out by previous owners when due and yet it was dated 2011 and had obviously never been changed.
Not sure what the service schedule recommends for replacement but bike had done @23k when I put the new one in and was well overdue for replacement IMHO.
Made a huge difference in economy… 49.5->50.4 mpg! ;D
Went off K&N a few years ago when I bought one for my Thunderace and it was a very poor fit so ended up purchasing another OEM.
Bought a pair for my Audi A8 at the same time along with a service kit but they were an even worse fit and I didn’t really fancy coating my MAF sensors & inlet manifolds with a fine oil mist so I put OEM filters back in.
Proper bayonet fit not a monster diameter jubilee clip that fits where it touches and was almost impossible to tighten up.
-=Glyn=-
It's quite shocking isn't it that they've never been done. Doubt they've even been checked. Bikes got full dealer history with last service in July. Can I request a detailed history from them?
I'm now uncertain they've bothered with the final drive service so once I figure out a makeshift centre, I'm going to open up and re oil/grease it to make sure.
kandNs arrive in next few days so ill update here on the fit. Fingers crossed !
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Thanks for all the info guys!
I've ordered the following
1. Solid carbide drill bits
2. Freeze and shock
3. Pencil sized blow torch. I tried a solder iron but it didn't seem to heat things up much
The left handed drill bits are brilliant in this situation.
-
That's the reason I look after my bike myself !
Best Regards Mick
-
Drill bits etc have all arrived now, so tomorrow is judgement day.
So far score is Bolt 3-0 Me
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Bolt is defo fused to the alloy fork. Nothing is working. Am now at the point of drilling it out completely and rethreading the fork, but drilling through this bolt really is futile!
What are these bolts even made of?
Nothing even touches it apart from tungsten carbide drill bits,.. but they snap really so easily and Im out of them now till another delivery comes with more.
(https://i.ibb.co/0ZR6BXN/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-26-at-19-01-42.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FJLysWv)
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Is that the top mudguard bolt?
If so, the mudguard weighs very little and isn't a structural part, so there might be another way to attach it? I don't know what, but someone more engineering-minded will be along in a minute to suggest something. :D
(If its not that bolt, then ignore me)
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yes its the top fixing. sooo frustrating
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The screw is stainless steel. You should be able to drill this will HSS drill bits, but it is important that you keep the temperature down, otherwide the screw will work harden. SS also has the tendency to gall, which then causes the drill bits to grab which is probably why you are snapping the carbide bits.
To try an get it drilled out. Centre punch the end of the screw, as close the the centre as you can. Drill a pilot hole 2mm if you can, run the drill as fast as possible, but keep the bit lubricated as much as you can, based on the location, you are probably best with WD40 or similar. If it starts smoking, it's getting to hot, stop and cool the drill tip. It will probably take a while, especially at the start, as you've almost certainly hardened the end of the screw. Once you get into the softer core of the screw, it should cut better. You can then go through with a bigger drill bit.
Good luck
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I think I must have work defo hardened it then, as hss bits just wouldnt touch it until an initial 2mm hole was made. The only bits that actually made it through were carbide tipped ceramic tile and glass bits. The ones that look like little arrows. I had to drill for like 30secs, clean out the crap with a magnet, then use either oil or shock and freeze inside the whole and repeat the process.
Finally made it through, albeit slightly off centre.
(https://i.ibb.co/crrcQtT/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-29-at-13-03-38.jpg)
Need to now drill it out to 5mm and re tap it with 1st 2nd and 3rd pass taps.
Will reinstall the mudgaurd 1st and see if things line up 1st. That will no doubt be my next problem...
The K&N were a good fit thankfully!
(https://i.ibb.co/Df5VRvM/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-29-at-13-04-36.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/L862tFn/Whats-App-Image-2024-01-29-at-13-03-58.jpg)
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Well done and it proves the old adage 'If at first you don't succeed...' and you can get those special Off-Centre Bolts for those off-centre holes...
As to the K&N's, I have had them fitted since forever and they do a really good job.
-
Thankyou! I'm back at it this weekend so will update any progress
made!
I was reading about the plastic fuel release issue and was considering having a look and see if it's been changed, but don't want to rock the boat and snap the plastic one if it's not.
Can BMW confirm if it's been done or not?
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They should be able to. However, just because it was 'done' doesn't mean the part was changed. They inspected the parts and if they were suspect (cracked etc.) the parts were changed.
However, BMW UK simply refitted the original parts if there was no sign of failure. Other country dealers, Greece for example, changed the parts regardless to protect the customers and the good name of BMW in their country.
-
When I spoke to BMW Motorrad Customer Service to enquire what recalls had been done on my bike (because NOG wouldn't give me any info hiding behind obsolete computer system and GDPR) they couldn't drill down to that level other than say the Fuel Pump/Fuel Pump Flange had been inspected - note they couldn't confirm repair or replace just inspected. There was no specific mention of the Quick Disconnect coupling either;
This was the only info that was given to me from BMW;
• Fuel Pump/Fuel Pump Flange 9/5/2014
• Cam Chain Jump Guide 4/2/2013
• Pivot Mount Relay Lever Strut 10/1/2011
Although i have all the NOG Service paperwork there is no mention of any of these being done.
BMW were unable to give me any info on whether the following had been done as apparently they weren't classed as recalls;
• Rear Wheel Flange?
• Uprated Starter Wiring Harness ?
I haven't checked whether my bike still has the original polypropylene Q/D fittings or whether they have been changed to chrome plated brass.
Annoyingly I have dozens of both the threaded/valved and the line/valved couplings as I used to use them on water lines feeding coffee/tea/hot choc machines, bun steamers etc. in McDonald's over many years but not sure whether the o-rings are Viton fuel/oil resistant or just rated for water?
As the ones I have were always used for water I don't want to fit a pair only to find them leaking when fuel/ethanol starts attacking the o-rings!
They are manufactured by CPC and I used to buy from Tom Parker.
Here is the link to the CPC page showing both polypropylene and chrome plated brass fuel line Q/D couplings if it helps?
https://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products/thermoplastic-and-brass-couplings/2/cpc-fuel-line-couplings/2052/ (https://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products/thermoplastic-and-brass-couplings/2/cpc-fuel-line-couplings/2052/)
-=Glyn=-
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what do you guys recommend i do? have a look or just leave it alone?
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As far as I can remember, viton would be best, nitrile OK, EPDM not good for petrol. EPDM usually used in food type contact. Viton is heavier so size for size it's a good way to check a ring is viton against a known one. All this probably won't help you in the slightest.
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Tom Parker (used to) sell stainless steel ones. I have had the tab open on my iPad for the last 10 years but now it sends me to a site called Colman somethingorother and says it can't find the page.
'Someone' in here bought both parts using my link way back when and said it worked perfickly! Just don't ask who it was.
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See link I posted above for Tom Parker if it helps?
In all these years I’ve never seen a stainless one only chromed brass.
That’s not to say they don’t exist of course just that I haven’t seen one!
The CPC page is here;
https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Search-results#?cludoquery=valved%20coupling&cludopage=1&cludorefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cpcworldwide.com%2FGeneral-Purpose%2FProducts&cludorefpt=Browse%20General%20Purpose%20Connectors%20and%20Couplings%20%7C%20CPC&cludorefact=Va&cludorefaci=1&cludoinputtype=standard (https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Search-results#?cludoquery=valved%20coupling&cludopage=1&cludorefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cpcworldwide.com%2FGeneral-Purpose%2FProducts&cludorefpt=Browse%20General%20Purpose%20Connectors%20and%20Couplings%20%7C%20CPC&cludorefact=Va&cludorefaci=1&cludoinputtype=standard)
That was a long link…I hope it works!
Hopefully your mystery shopper will stop by and put us out of our misery…
-=Glyn=-
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The Tom Parker ones may indeed have been Chrome plated brass, I never studied the description or bought any but they were definitely not plastic ones. It was the plastic, from memory, that cracked in the OEM fittings.
Costas used them I believe in his K13.
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Thanks very much for the links. Is it both parts i would need?
cLCD100040V
Thread: 1/4" BSPT - Fuel Line Bod
cLCD230-04V
Tube ID: 1/4" - Metric Eq.: 6.4 mm
I obvs need to check underneath 1st and see if they've already been changed, but as the tanks 3/4 full, I think I'm going to wait until spring, run the tank down to empty and have a look then.
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The tank isn't that heavy, even full, just slightly awkward to manhandle.
I though that TP sold both parts but can't be arsed to do the search. Good luck.
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Am back at it today!
Managed to re tap that hole and am.pleased to say it worked! Thread is a little loose compared to the others but nothing some thread lock shouldn't sort out!
Rear wheel is off and I'm attempting to fit the powerbronze rear hugger.
I have a question about the 3 bolts to to remove from final drive and the seal in general.
All the bolts on the final drive are pretty rusty and could do with being removed/cleaned etc. I was thinking to remove one at a time, cleaning and refitting with correct torque etc. How temperamental is the rubber seal inside and what's the risk of upsetting things?, even if I don't do all of them but only the 3 needed to fit the hugger?
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Fitted 2 huggers and took all three bolts out at once with no problems.
In theory you need longer bolts to fit the hugger which my new old stock one on the 13 came without. Simply removing the washers and re-fitting the bolts worked wonders. Brian
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Thanks. Its the powerbronze version I have. I did wonder about the bolts. The instructions do say to use the original bolts though
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Mine have both been Ilmberger so no idea about the fitment of the Powerbronze but if it is going on the same place on the rear flange then I would not want to fit it with the original bolts without removing the fairly thick washers otherwise there may not be sufficient thread engagement. And thread lock of course, just not the Araldite-like OEM stuff.
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Hi, Been an eventful week! hope you are all well and looking forward to the weekend!
Would anyone know why I might have 4 random ball bearings on the floor near the rear end of the bike. The garage floor was fully swept before working on the bike so Im really stumped to as where they could have come from.
The only things I have taken off in the days before noticing them was-
Exhaust and clips
Rear wheel
Rear suspension links
Ive just gone out to service the final drive but this is obvs making me nervous. Theres nothing obvious to me looking at the bike, but there's ball bearings inside the final drive bearing right?
The ballbearings themselves were all clean and dry
Is there anything I should/could do to check?
SOLVED- It was the ball bearing out of wheels on my stool .. lol
-
(https://i.ibb.co/VVNsKsh/photo-2024-02-16-16-12-21.jpg)
Nice to know this is finally sorted after the new nuts n bolts arrived. Everything all torqued up etc, however the ressesed nut and bolt nearest the front of the bike are turning together even though torqued correctly.
Is this normal?
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SOLVED- It was the ball bearing out of wheels on my stool .. lol
Thank goodness! You had me worried there.
Stool rebuilds are so much simpler. I can recommend wood-based ones for minimal stress. ::)
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FINAL DRIVE SERVICE
Got the oil out and it seemed pretty good. no bits inside and a nice color. Maybe it has been serviced recently after all!
(https://i.ibb.co/vCWQqb2/photo-2024-02-16-16-12-18.jpg)
Then released the rear bevel. Was a bit of a pain to get the splines to release from the shaft, but keeping in turning the rotor and fiddling with it seemed to do the trick eventually. Removing the rubber boot was also a little nerve racking as I didn't want to damage it and have to replace it.
I think it looks ok inside. There looks like a bit of dirt on the outside/top of the shaft itself but the splines look nice and clean and in tact but very dry.
Inside the boot/around shaft, the grease felt a little runny in places, or even a bit watery, like a bit of water might have got in there.
(https://i.ibb.co/JcQQsPm/photo-2024-02-16-18-15-05.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/v41NGJC/photo-2024-02-16-18-15-08.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4Jj1SwV/photo-2024-02-16-18-15-00.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wtq63S8/photo-2024-02-16-18-14-58.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/3SVKNYZ/photo-2024-02-16-18-14-56.jpg)
So I'm going to give it all a good clean out, lube up the splines and shaft with Liqui Moly LM47
Any advice on how much to use would be much appreciated!
I don't have any of the white grease thats around the rubber seal, if anyone can recommend what to use? I saw someone recommending White tap grease?
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Thank goodness! You had me worried there.
Stool rebuilds are so much simpler. I can recommend wood-based ones for minimal stress. ::)
[/quote]
Haha, yes they are, This ones pretty fun to scoot around on though. it also goes up and down which is very handy!
(https://i.ibb.co/vdKmBkc/photo-2024-02-16-18-13-15.jpg)
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Hi, Been an eventful week! hope you are all well and looking forward to the weekend!
Would anyone know why I might have 4 random ball bearings on the floor near the rear end of the bike. The garage floor was fully swept before working on the bike so Im really stumped to as where they could have come from.
The only things I have taken off in the days before noticing them was-
Exhaust and clips
Rear wheel
Rear suspension links
Ive just gone out to service the final drive but this is obvs making me nervous. Theres nothing obvious to me looking at the bike, but there's ball bearings inside the final drive bearing right?
The ballbearings themselves were all clean and dry
Is there anything I should/could do to check?
SOLVED- It was the ball bearing out of wheels on my stool .. lol
I hope one is allowed to say, in the circumstances, you twat!
-
Hi, Been an eventful week! hope you are all well and looking forward to the weekend!
Would anyone know why I might have 4 random ball bearings on the floor near the rear end of the bike. The garage floor was fully swept before working on the bike so Im really stumped to as where they could have come from.
The only things I have taken off in the days before noticing them was-
Exhaust and clips
Rear wheel
Rear suspension links
Ive just gone out to service the final drive but this is obvs making me nervous. Theres nothing obvious to me looking at the bike, but there's ball bearings inside the final drive bearing right?
The ballbearings themselves were all clean and dry
Is there anything I should/could do to check?
SOLVED- It was the ball bearing out of wheels on my stool .. lol
I hope one is allowed to say, in the circumstances, you twat!
haha of course u can.. tbh, I was so relieved when I realised I forgot call it myself :laugh:
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Many, many, many years ago, whilst rebuilding a Midget gearbox in my (filthy) garage, we were tempted to 'test' it before reinstalling it in the car.
Snicked it into 'some' gear.
BOING!
Ball bearings everywhere...
Collected them all, rebuilt the thing, tried it one more time, just to be sure...but this time lined the garage with polythene sheet, just to be sure...
BOING!
Ball bearings everywhere. But this time we found them all. Rebuilt gearbox. Tested it one more time. Just to be sure!
BOING!
Couldn't find them all despite the polythene sheet, so wandered off down the disused railway to a 'man who knew'. He gave us a handful of Midget gearbox ball bearings and a dire warning...'DO NOT TEST IT, JUST FIT IT!'
We did and no more BOING!
I was still sliding on unfound ball bearings the day I left the place 10 years later! But at least I knew where they came from...
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Did a big push over the weekend and glad to say the bike is back together and on the road!
Got the final drive and boot etc cleaned and all greased up-
I used Liqui Molly LM47 for the splines and Comma CV & Lith-Moly Grease for the rubber boot ( although are both pretty identical in color of viscosity)
(https://i.ibb.co/v1xP8zg/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-55.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/gJbXYPz/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-53.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/z52Yq7j/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-48.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/VLPRbr5/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-42.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2FfxRmH)
(https://i.ibb.co/0Ms3R6Q/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-26.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T8W5x7r)
After putting it all back together, I ran some water through hose over the top of the boot to check no water was getting through, opened it up again and all was good! Il re check it in a month or so.
Finally got the rear hugger and Mivv installed!
(https://i.ibb.co/t48TWS4/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-24.jpg)
Took the front wheel off and cleaned up the pinch bolt, forks, front suspension, callipers, discs etc
before
(https://i.ibb.co/3cQpbWb/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DQT9FkF)
during
(https://i.ibb.co/5kKgtzd/photo-2024-02-20-15-51-09.jpg)
after
(https://i.ibb.co/3zDcQD6/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-54.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qd2Mt2S)
Deep cleaned, polished the wheel and added 2 layers of high temp ceramic wheel wax which will make washing and keeping them clean much easier.
(https://i.ibb.co/Qpq6nSV/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-49.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HBMrYwy)
Didn't take much photos of the process because I was so focused on getting it finished.
Putting it back together wasn't fun as I snapped one of the belly pan plastic clips and had to epoxy it back in place.
Also, its quite nerve racking once its all done to be sure that you've properly torqued everything etc!
So here we are, mission accomplished! Bikes looking clean, its been serviced, and its good to know the bits that weren't so good have been addressed and wont get any worse, and now things have been coated/protected, that riding it daily wont be such an issue and keeping it clean will be a breeze.
Many thanks to those who have contributed. Having words of wisdom from those more experienced has really helped me along the way, as have the many many other threads in here. I know Im very late to the K party, but its all very new to me and Im enjoying the experience so far! I hope this thread also helps any other newer members/owners like me on their journey to get stuck in!
Ive started a write up of the products etc I use and will post this asap!
Now to start riding and enjoying it!
(https://i.ibb.co/0Jyjf6M/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-46.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VBYWvzS)
(https://i.ibb.co/vY1cLmM/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-42.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ry2gQPJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/72K4wY0/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-40.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0hrtgDz)
(https://i.ibb.co/YTsjZ37/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-38.jpg) (https://ibb.co/prFXyxv)
(https://i.ibb.co/sqhzDbf/photo-2024-02-20-15-50-36.jpg)
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Excellent write-up, good photos, nice bike, and some education (for us too) on the way.
What's not to like!
Well done Forcefield.
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Nice work Ritchie and good photo work to boot.
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BIKE UPDATE-
Hi All!
Ive had a good full week or riding the bike. Various distances commuting and blasting around for days out. All weathers and im very happy with the bike. Grip puppies made a massive difference and Ive ordered some helibars.
2 things though-
1.Radiator might need replacing after all. Its a steady 3 bars when riding out of town. But as soon as I come into town and sit at a few lights the bars raise to 4/5 and the fan kicks in. Not sure if this is normal?
2. I think my ESA dampening isnt working. Ive done a tonne of reading on all the other threads/forums . The preload is adjusting but the different settings dont change the stiffness. Im told that doing the standing at back of bike and pushing down on the rear end, I should be able to feel a noticeable difference, but there is non, or very little.
I think while its under warranty, its worth seeing if I can get both these things looked at /sorted by the dealer.
Also am working on a super exiting tech upgrade prototype that Il wait till its more developed in the next few weeks before sharing fully here.
Hope ur all well and enjoyinh the somewhat nicer weather were starting to see
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1.Radiator might need replacing after all. Its a steady 3 bars when riding out of town. But as soon as I come into town and sit at a few lights the bars raise to 4/5 and the fan kicks in. Not sure if this is normal?
That's pretty normal for the summer time - 3-5 mins running in town sets mine off. But it's not yet spring, so it may well be on the edge. Mine kicked in today in town whilst pottering around trying to find a place to park, so mine isn't perfect either. Then again it's due its yearly clean and sparkle very soon which might knock a bar off (fingers crossed).
I think you're going to have to wait until the warmer weather to confirm that one.
2. I think my ESA dampening isnt working.
It took me 3 months to recognise the difference between 'comfort' and 'sport'. I think it's rather subtle - but other folk say I'm insensitive. The b*stards. ;D
Try riding down a bumpy road or two - the 'sport' mode should get your fillings rattling nicely, the 'comfort' IMHO is still pretty hard compared to most bikes but it will take the edge off the bumps.
If you're not pogo'ing around the suspension is working well, so I would take your time before worrying.
ESA can be rebuilt, by the way. not sure of the cost though.
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Hah I remember my relief when switching from my k without ESA to the Motorsport, and being able to tell the difference! There was so much talk about not being able to.
I weigh maybe 70-75kg all up (or 8,000kg now I've got the new motocross boots) so maybe that helps.
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I found it pretty easy to tell if I was on the wrong ESA setting. If I wasn't in SPORT as I started on a local road with some nice, well surfaced sweeping bends I'd find it difficult to hold the line I wanted.
Likewise, the bumpy lane on the approach to my home was really uncomfortable if I wasn't in COMFORT mode.
ETA I'm about 120kg in my gear and use to ride solo with the pre-load set to rider and luggage.
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Thanks for feedback!
So I did two tests.
1. Standing off the bike, with the front wheel in a wheel chock so the bikes level.
2. Setting bike to one helmet
3. Set bike to comfort and then stand at rear of bike and bounce the rear end with hands
4. Repeat process in Sport. There should be a noticeable difference apparently
The other test was-
Riding the bike down a bumpy section of Dual carriage way at 50mph again in different settings. Was getting bumped out my seat every time and couln't feel any difference at all.
I do weigh just over 100kg and the bumps were quite aggressive so that maybe wasn't a fair test, but I did try it in both one helmet luggage, and also 2 helmets combinations with no difference noticed.
Weather was wet when I was testing and Im still new to the bike so didn't do any hard cornering tests, but I have been switching between modes while driving and honestly cant tell.
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That's pretty normal for the summer time - 3-5 mins running in town sets mine off. But it's not yet spring, so it may well be on the edge. Mine kicked in today in town whilst pottering around trying to find a place to park, so mine isn't perfect either. Then again it's due its yearly clean and sparkle very soon which might knock a bar off (fingers crossed).
I think you're going to have to wait until the warmer weather to confirm that one.
I was wondering if its kicking off in these temps how bad it will be in summer...
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my twopenurth, most of the time two up. I change the damping modes lots of times when we're out because like Black K1, the bike handles the twisties a lot better in sport and then on the straighter bits back to comfort, even the war department on the back can tell when I switch it over. The pre load, I cycle through the different settings every time I wash the bike, a tip picked up on here somewhere.
Weight is 83kg rider and 60kg pillion.
Best regards Mick
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Five years on a K12S and now eight years on a K13S and I'm still sure I would wager even the price of a pint on being to guess correctly 2 out of 3 times.
There is a known failure point on the front ESA where the wiring loom can get worn to breaking point (inside the sleeving so not really visible at first glance. The system is open-loop so no fault code or warning light. BMW sell a repair kit for it but most dealers don't know about it...
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Still to book the bike in with the dealership... Im waiting to get ouf this last strectch of winter before doing so and going to try and get a new rad put on whilst they do the ESA.
Its also just shy of 18k, so I guess Il do the valve clearances then also.
In the meantime, I've been busy fabricating a mount for a android/nav/dashcam/rear view system which Il share here once complete. Ive got an electrical question Im hoping someone might be able to help with.
The main unit has 3 leads for power. 2 that go to the battery with the standard battery termanal circular conectors, and another wire with no connector that tells the unit to switch on and off with the ignition.
Rather than splicing into one of the other wires on the bike, I believe I can get an adapter to attach to the built in satnav socket
Phoned motorworks and they said this was the thing- https://www.motorworks.co.uk/wiring-repair-kit-ela13585-1.html
So my question is-
Do I need to cut the battery connectors of the main units +\- leads and connect the lot to this adapter?
Or do I connect the unit directly to the batery and only connect the switch lead to this unit and blank off the other leads?
Someone else said to use this- https://www.nippynormans.com/k1300s-k1300r/denali-switched-power-adapter-for-bmw-motorcycles?fbclid=IwAR03jDW7zq2Uky-uGcgss5qjsctt2r2fwijXSoMfJcgz4mBtN1aMZBVWS5M
Many thanks!
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As long as you are only using the after-market connecter and loom to 'trigger' the device you want to install, then the thingummy from Motorworks is exactly the thing you need. You do not need the Denali wotsit.
The loom is fine for powering a sat nag such as a Garmin or TomTom but it depends on how much current your set up is going to draw as to whether the supply will be sufficient to use it as your only feed.
The connector from Motorworks (a bargain at £12, they have been as much as £21 in the recent past :o ) has three wires, earth, +ve 12v on and off with ignition and +ve 12v on with ignition and off after about a 30 second delay after ignition is off. The last one is great for turning off the ignition, grabbing something from a pannier and getting the ign back on without losing the power to your device.
Of course, if you only need to trigger the device and not have the 12v there permanently, then it makes little difference.
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Thanks for detailed response. The motor works adapter arrives today.
I believe I only need it to turn on and off the device with ignition as the unit has 2 other wires that connect directly to the battery.
So don't just connect it to the +12v and tape off the other wires on the connector?
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Not too sure. It depends on how your devices work. You may need to connect the earth wire as well. Either way, tape off what you don't use.
And I assume you know where the connector is to plug it into... :)
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Not too sure. It depends on how your devices work. You may need to connect the earth wire as well. Either way, tape off what you don't use.
And I assume you know where the connector is to plug it into... :)
Everything works amazingly thanks! I now have front /ear cameras, rear view mirror/screen, Blind spot detection, android/apple play sat nav etc., all linked into a sena srl mesh ( which is a little disappointing in sound quality given its price).
I just got back from a week up in the Lakes. Mixed weather, but stunning roads and a truly memorable experience. Bike was amazing apart from a moment of stuttering under acceleration, but I think that might have been some dirty fuel.
Its just really great to do a proper trip on the bike finally after all the hard work. Still need to get the radiator and ESA looked at under warranty, but Im just waiting for this final bit of crap weather to pass.
Had a little play with a 360º camera if anyones interested- https://youtu.be/ieRfxLy3Nmg?si=aLEFHN-pegMBUmjm
Noticed theres very little Youtube content around the old girl, so going to document what Im doing with it for a bit of a creative outlet and keep me out of trouble.
Also had my 1st near miss with a car since getting back on. Totally my fault, and very humbling. I had to mount a kerb to avoid collision. Luckily there was a drop in the kerb for a driveway right where I needed it or things would have been very different.
Ride safe!
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Ok my brain dump in order of appearance:
1. Stutter eh! Mine turned out to be fricking exhaust flap sticking I think - Philip sorted it after buying it from me.
2. Hurrah another 360 camera! Which one? Mine is the Insta360 X3. I'm still not happy with the res/clarity/stupid lens protector stuff. Your footage looks nice and clear.
-
Blue skies on that video - you lucky lucky boy.
Good work! It looked like a very pleasant run.
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Ok my brain dump in order of appearance:
1. Stutter eh! Mine turned out to be fricking exhaust flap sticking I think - Philip sorted it after buying it from me.
2. Hurrah another 360 camera! Which one? Mine is the Insta360 X3. I'm still not happy with the res/clarity/stupid lens protector stuff. Your footage looks nice and clear.
1. Not heard of the flap sticking before but thanks as will bear that in mind if it happens again. Seems like it could be a number of things though...
2. Also have the X3. 1st time using it so much to learn, but I also had a nightmare with the lens protector fogging up and half the footage rendered useless. was quite pissed off after paying the price they charge for it all. Am looking into the best solution other than using it without. I saw someone using anti fog spray like they use in diving masks. might be my next shout. Have you got any links to footge we can see?
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Blue skies on that video - you lucky lucky boy.
Good work! It looked like a very pleasant run.
Yes was pretty much the only day that wasn't on and off rain / grey clouds etc
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Some great footage made even better by the blue skies! Makes me want to go for a decent run on mine although I will admit to being menaced by clouds… :o
Just wondering why as you are surrounded by technology including Sena SRL Mesh you have to turn around @50 seconds in to talk to your pillion? ;)
-=Glyn=-
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Some great footage made even better by the blue skies! Makes me want to go for a decent run on mine although I will admit to being menaced by clouds… :o
Just wondering why as you are surrounded by technology including Sena SRL Mesh you have to turn around @50 seconds in to talk to your pillion? ;)
-=Glyn=-
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Ive been itching all week to get out again but the weathers been awful. Where are you based? we should met up sometime!
That was my wifes 1st time on the bike after her accident and she doesn't have any comms yet. We just bought a cheap lid for her to see how she felt on the bike before splashing out on something decent plus coms..
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A brave lady. Well done to her!
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The old adage about falling off a horse and getting right back on doesn't take account of breaking significant bits of your body and having to look after the horse until you are well enough to try.
Great courage on the part of your lady.
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Thankyou!!.
Yes she is a true fighter and not one you want to mess with..... A Feisty Latina!
Heres another more mellow edit of a sunset ride around Ullswater-
https://youtu.be/luzM1F1FAGU
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Lovely! And very relaxing.
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Lovely! And very relaxing.
You ever get up this way much? We should go for a ride that way!
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Only very rarely - twice, maybe thrice on a bike.
But I will be going to up in a car in a couple of weeks, to Bassenthwaite Station Cafe (https://www.basslakestation.co.uk/).
Afternoon Tea for two (sweet and savoury):
(https://www.poqit.com/afternoon_tea.jpg)
https://www.basslakestation.co.uk/afternoon-tea-menu
The fun bit is that you don't need to pick what you want off the menu because you get it all!
Times two.
And a takeaway box for the stuff you can't quite finish.
It's illegal to visit more than once a quarter otherwise your sat fats are going to rocket beyond heart attack levels. But what a way to die.
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Sugar overload? Richard? Nah!
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Make sure you bring that shoe rack back too.
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Only a neat freak would see a shoe rack in a cake display... ::)
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wow thats some spread! Think Il need to go check it out, although I dont facy th ride home after :o
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wow thats some spread! Think Il need to go check it out, although I dont facy th ride home after :o
Going to need some more preload (adds 'bag' symbol).
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wow thats some spread! Think Il need to go check it out, although I dont facy th ride home after :o
Going to need some more preload (adds 'bag' symbol).
Haha,, yes that will help! speaking of which, i was out for a run in North wales yesterday and Id forgotten to change it back from 2up/comfy from the last time the mrs was on the back. Bike was awful through the twisties. What a difference it makes! Just wish the dampener was working also. Has motivated me to get it booked in and looked at asap!
Heres another video if anyones interested. Its of Honister Pass up in the Lakes and was an absolutley stunning ride. One part of it is super steep though. Reminded me of a time when I was in Thailand on a moped in the mountains and the brakes faded to nothing coming back down!
https://youtu.be/KcIXQV5SoVE
Let us know what you think, and any suggestions of roads you think would make for similarly interesting video please let me know!!!
Have a great week!
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Love the subject, the quality and the music.
But the upside down bits are too druggy for me! :o
What are the little connector bits in the yoke holes - for clipping on a phone/other?
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Love the subject, the quality and the music.
But the upside down bits are too druggy for me! :o
What are the little connector bits in the yoke holes - for clipping on a phone/other?
Haha, no drugs were consumed on the making of this video ;D
The mounts are a work in progress. I custom built an accessory bar that sits just in front of the yoke and it attaches to those slots. you can see the screen on the video. The system has a rear view camera/blind spot alert and I wanted to position it as far forward as I could to limit how far down I had to look and take my eyes of the road. Got a few adjustments to make but its pretty good. I can see the screen with just a glance down without having to lower my head. Really good as a rear view camera mirror. Those mounts that go onto the battery cover are shocking! Id almost be looking at my belly button to see one of them!
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Ok my brain dump in order of appearance:
1. Stutter eh! Mine turned out to be fricking exhaust flap sticking I think - Philip sorted it after buying it from me.
2. Hurrah another 360 camera! Which one? Mine is the Insta360 X3. I'm still not happy with the res/clarity/stupid lens protector stuff. Your footage looks nice and clear.
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2. Also have the X3. 1st time using it so much to learn, but I also had a nightmare with the lens protector fogging up and half the footage rendered useless. was quite pissed off after paying the price they charge for it all. Am looking into the best solution other than using it without. I saw someone using anti fog spray like they use in diving masks. might be my next shout. Have you got any links to footge we can see?
I've been slowly working through my footage from last year and linking from my thread here (https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=5222.msg64920#msg64920). I thought I'd finished but just remembered I have a couple more days to do damn it!
wow thats some spread! Think Il need to go check it out, although I dont facy th ride home after :o
Going to need some more preload (adds 'bag' symbol).
Haha,, yes that will help! speaking of which, i was out for a run in North wales yesterday and Id forgotten to change it back from 2up/comfy from the last time the mrs was on the back. Bike was awful through the twisties. What a difference it makes! Just wish the dampener was working also. Has motivated me to get it booked in and looked at asap!
Heres another video if anyones interested. Its of Honister Pass up in the Lakes and was an absolutley stunning ride. One part of it is super steep though. Reminded me of a time when I was in Thailand on a moped in the mountains and the brakes faded to nothing coming back down!
https://youtu.be/KcIXQV5SoVE
Let us know what you think, and any suggestions of roads you think would make for similarly interesting video please let me know!!!
Have a great week!
Wowsers that looks a nice place, and no other vehicles! One thing I belatedly realised when editing mine is that sometimes it's better to pretend it's a single lens thing and just insta-switch to the next angle. It was an embarrassing amount of time before I found that transition option in the editor :D.
Quality looks great. I think YouTube compression is ok until you have close-up complex stuff such as trees, whereas beaut' scenery backdrops are simple enough to not get messed up. Or at least that was the case several years ago. In my videos when i'm going through forests it seems a lot worse quality than when i'm out in the mountains.
Anyway! Time for a trip to Motolegends!
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Don't take your credit cards...
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Love the vids Ritchie, even the upside down bits, you just have to pretend you are the pillion and not the rider.
I drove the pass long ago in the car with a manic, speed-freak girlfriend and we got tangled up with a bunch of bikes who were trying, but not hard enough...
When we pulled over in a lay-by for a brew, some of the bikes pulled in and one of the guys came over and said 'You should ride a bike mate.' Well, I only had two at the time but I took it as a high compliment.
Honister used to be used as a selective (timed and competitive) section on road rallies back in the day and it was as scary as 5#/+€ in the dark, especially for the poor navigators!
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Haha,, yes that will help! speaking of which, i was out for a run in North wales yesterday and Id forgotten to change it back from 2up/comfy from the last time the mrs was on the back. Bike was awful through the twisties. What a difference it makes! Just wish the dampener was working also. Has motivated me to get it booked in and looked at asap!
Heres another video if anyones interested. Its of Honister Pass up in the Lakes and was an absolutley stunning ride. One part of it is super steep though. Reminded me of a time when I was in Thailand on a moped in the mountains and the brakes faded to nothing coming back down!
https://youtu.be/KcIXQV5SoVE
Let us know what you think, and any suggestions of roads you think would make for similarly interesting video please let me know!!!
Have a great week!
Great video Ritchie. What music was that?
Reading the comments it's the second time I've seen the Chigee AIO-5 mentioned in as many days.
First a friend of mine who rides a GS sent me a link to a YT video and asked me what I think. Honest answer was never heard of it but having seen it I'm interested!
Then I watch your video and see you mentioning a custom mount for it. Is that it I see mounted on your bike? If so what do you think of it?
The GT has different bars hence a different mounting system would probably be needed but do you have any details of the mount also please?
I tried a Chinese CarPlay unit in my Audi A8 but after 18 months of being frustrated with its issues and lack of response from ewaying the supplier I ended up removing it.
Tempted to try CarBikePlay though as it could be a better solution than going through a dozen phone mounts on the bike trying to find one I like!
Thanks & kind regards,
-=Glyn=-
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Ok my brain dump in order of appearance:
1. Stutter eh! Mine turned out to be fricking exhaust flap sticking I think - Philip sorted it after buying it from me.
2. Hurrah another 360 camera! Which one? Mine is the Insta360 X3. I'm still not happy with the res/clarity/stupid lens protector stuff. Your footage looks nice and clear.
...
2. Also have the X3. 1st time using it so much to learn, but I also had a nightmare with the lens protector fogging up and half the footage rendered useless. was quite pissed off after paying the price they charge for it all. Am looking into the best solution other than using it without. I saw someone using anti fog spray like they use in diving masks. might be my next shout. Have you got any links to footge we can see?
I've been slowly working through my footage from last year and linking from my thread here (https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=5222.msg64920#msg64920). I thought I'd finished but just remembered I have a couple more days to do damn it!
wow thats some spread! Think Il need to go check it out, although I dont facy th ride home after :o
Going to need some more preload (adds 'bag' symbol).
Haha,, yes that will help! speaking of which, i was out for a run in North wales yesterday and Id forgotten to change it back from 2up/comfy from the last time the mrs was on the back. Bike was awful through the twisties. What a difference it makes! Just wish the dampener was working also. Has motivated me to get it booked in and looked at asap!
Heres another video if anyones interested. Its of Honister Pass up in the Lakes and was an absolutley stunning ride. One part of it is super steep though. Reminded me of a time when I was in Thailand on a moped in the mountains and the brakes faded to nothing coming back down!
https://youtu.be/KcIXQV5SoVE
Let us know what you think, and any suggestions of roads you think would make for similarly interesting video please let me know!!!
Have a great week!
Wowsers that looks a nice place, and no other vehicles! One thing I belatedly realised when editing mine is that sometimes it's better to pretend it's a single lens thing and just insta-switch to the next angle. It was an embarrassing amount of time before I found that transition option in the editor :D.
Quality looks great. I think YouTube compression is ok until you have close-up complex stuff such as trees, whereas beaut' scenery backdrops are simple enough to not get messed up. Or at least that was the case several years ago. In my videos when i'm going through forests it seems a lot worse quality than when i'm out in the mountains.
Anyway! Time for a trip to Motolegends!
The road was actually super busy on a bank holiday weekend. Ive just edited it all out to look like it was only me there! I also had to keep pulling over whenever I caught up with a car and let them get out of view again.
Yes the X3 is shockingly bad in low light conditions. Its an amazing piece of kit when you think what it can do, but the grainy dark areas could be a deal breaker for me. Ive only used it once so will persevere. We plan to use it in our business anyway so its not a wasted purchase. i just hope I can utilise it fully on the bike
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Love the vids Ritchie, even the upside down bits, you just have to pretend you are the pillion and not the rider.
I drove the pass long ago in the car with a manic, speed-freak girlfriend and we got tangled up with a bunch of bikes who were trying, but not hard enough...
When we pulled over in a lay-by for a brew, some of the bikes pulled in and one of the guys came over and said 'You should ride a bike mate.' Well, I only had two at the time but I took it as a high compliment.
Honister used to be used as a selective (timed and competitive) section on road rallies back in the day and it was as scary as 5#/+€ in the dark, especially for the poor navigators!
Its some road isnt it! Would love to see some rally cars going round!
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** Threw out the Chigee Carpuride chat into a new thread to avoid further tangential chatter in this fun thread :) **