Pannier Lock Removal

[Lotus26R]

Does anyone have a link showing how to remove the lock cylinder from a sports pannier? I'm quite comfortable with the re-keying process once the cylinder is released.

There used to be one on another forum which is now defunct and it doesn't seem to be in the repair manual.

Thanks

[raesewell]

I think TomL has some experience in this area.

[Lotus26R]

He does Rae - he followed this link:

http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/k12s/locks/locks.html

Unfortunately that's now dead. The final leaf in the lock cylinder retains the cylinder in the case - that leaf needs to be retracted before the lock will come out but I'm blowed if I can find out how to do that for these Sports Panniers.

[raesewell]

Try this
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?38730-Removing-the-Lock-from-the-BMW-Grey-Black-Sports-Panniers

Or this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf0TIOYxjjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WU8v6z77lH4

Don't forget Google is your friend 

[Lotus26R]

Thanks Rae - Google and I are the very oldest friends.

The first link is someone asking the same question - the others relate to different pannier styles. The crucial bit of info is different on the Sports Panniers and is the bit I need.

I've been unable to track anything other than the missing link that Tom used with great success.

 

[raesewell]

Oh well, you're on your own then with that one. 

[Lotus26R]

Hopefully Tom may remember - I suspect it'll be done with a thin "hook" device pushed into he lock but useful to have that confirmed or refuted. Thanks for trying though.

[richtea]

I got this far (I suspect you've probably got this far already, but just in case):
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=3071.msg36915#msg36915

See the pics with the helpful cat, downwards. The very last comment from TomL may be useful.

I didn't like the lock & levers coming loose in a sprung/stressed sort of way, as I started removing the retaining 'hinge / pin', so I shoved it back in before it got completely misaligned.
I had visions of lever springs and bits popping out all the over place without being able to trace their original positions*. And that was before I got anywhere close to the tumbler innards. 

I gave in and I took it to the dealership. Hey ho.
(The only snippet I picked up from them was that the original factory fitted/ matched locks were a pain to modify because they were assembled in a slightly different manner - can't remember how, but something like an extra rivet which needed removing first.)

If you do get in there, please take some photos as you go along showing how you did it - they will be mighty useful to the next person along!

Last bit: this may be useful when you get into the lock:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFoke2TS1O8

*Comment from here, with my emphasis:
https://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/303681-Re-keying-Tumblers-vs-Expensive-Factory-prekeyed-whole-lock-Cylinders

One lock cylinder rekeyed but have to slowly dismantle the other sport pannier to see how to reassemble the latching and release mechanisms--the larger spring popped out when dissasembling and i have to see how the small spring goes, too. The black powder is dry graphite lock lube I had on hand. ACTUALLY REASSEMBLING THE LATCHING MECHANISMS IS MORE COMPLICATED THAN CHANGING AROUND THE TUMBLERS IN THE LOCK CYLINDERS.

[Lotus26R]

Thanks - I got past the cat to the bit where you bottled out and stuck it all back together! I'd have been with you on that one!

I think Tom probably released the last leaf from the inside using a long, thin bladed tool - bit like a 2d hockey stick. If that's the case then no need to pull the lock/handle assembly out.

Need to see if Santa brings me any panniers before I can put the theory to practice...

[TomL]

The end lever furthest from the key is spring loaded and holds the barrel in place. If I remember you have to get at this lever and push against it and the barrel comes out complete with the key. The lever is about in line with where the tip of the key is when inserted into the barrel.

You have to insert a thin screwdriver through the hole which is arrowed on your photo (lock is in that black hole).

[richtea]

Thanks Tom!
So just checking - do you need to take that 'hinge/pin' out (with the risk of all the release levers coming to pieces), or is the lock completely separate to that - and a well-aimed screwdriver was all that I needed?

[Lotus26R]

Thanks Tom. I'm chilled with 9 screws and a rummage with a small flatblade - just wasn't comfortable with the whole sub-assembly grenading in the kitchen if I pulled the (hinge) pin.

I'll take some photo's if/when I succeed. I'll try and look up a suitable deck chair for continuity purposes.

[richtea]

I'll take some photo's if/when I succeed. I'll try and look up a suitable deck chair for continuity purposes.

Like it. 
You're not far off. It's a bench cushion of dubious taste. Like the owner.

[TomL]

These photos are of my lock unit removed from the case. (This is the opposite case from the unit shown in the photo above).

First remove the light grey lever case opening return spring.


The light grey latch lever is obstructing access to the lock barrel release latch.


Insert key and rotate fully anti clockwise. Open light grey lever. Without the spring fitted it will stay open.


Insert a thin screwdriver as shown and depress the barrel retaining lever.


The barrel with key can now be pulled out. The screwdriver is pointing at the barrel retaining lever which protrudes slightly.
When the correct lock levers and springs are fitted, they will be flush with the outside diameter of the barrel as shown here.


To refit the barrel, the case catches are closed and the locking catch that the lock barrel rotates is rotated completely clockwise with a flat blade screwdriver.


The lock barrel and key are inserted with the retaining lever facing outwards as shown. It should click into place.

[richtea]

Excellent photos, Tom.
And no need to mess with the hinge/pin.

A nice Xmas pressie for us!