Hi Rawdon,
I have a pair for sale if you are still looking

Hi Richtea
As far as I am aware, the K was standard with the 180 rear, with the 190 size for the optional sports wheel. Anyway, great tyres which will fit a multitude of bikes. Postage can be arranged

Hi err.
I fitted an Oberon clutch slave cylinder last year and I suffered the same problems. I remember during a ride once, the clutch almost stopped disengaging, making pulling away "interesting". On arrival back home I found that the master cylinder had lost most of its fluid and was drawing in air . I emailed Oberon to see what the problem was but received no reply. I refilled the master cylinder and went through the bleed procedure again and since I have had no problems. Oberon manufactures the slave cylinder incorporating" frozen rubber "to ensure a tight seal and I believe it takes time and use to become effective. The best way to bleed, I found, was to pull the clutch lever and release 5 to 6 times then hold the lever in and open the bleed nipple. Do this several times if necessary and do not forget to keep the master cylinder topped up with mineral oil NOT brake fluid. The slave cylinder has been working fine now for 8 months with no further problems -just keeping an eye on the master cylinder level. Try doing this before spending probably unnecessary money

Hi all thanks for the replies. some of the reasons I am considering changing to the GP shift pattern-
When "making progress" on roads with tight bends, I have found that when changing up through a sweeping left hander, on a few occasions, my boot has skimmed the road which causes great concern!!,
especially when there are pot holes etc. Another reason is that during a long ride after constant gear changes, it becomes almost a chore to change up constantly ( I accept some of the cause is age related!) I feel that the GP shift pattern is more natural and compliments positive shifting.

The oil tank on my 1300r has an overflow pipe which hangs down by the near side footrest. This design ensures that there is no pressure build up in the oil tank if overfilled. Just remember that excess oil could be released in front of your rear tyre resulting in a Torvill and Dean impression on a roundabout

The problem is that you cant just go to a dealer and test ride an R or S. I have had a 1300s and now on to my second R. The R for me is lighter and has lower gearing and accelerates faster- more suited to "urban" riding. Have been on long tours with the R and distance and high speed were not an issue. The R also has the exclusive and rare factor. The S is aimed at hyper touring with higher gearing and twin air filters to enable high speed touring. Both are brilliant bikes, you would enjoy either    

Hi All, covered over 7k on my k1300r since January. The bike is frankly EPIC but I have come to the conclusion that the rear shock requires replacement. The usual problem with shocks is that they loose damping and become soft, but this is the opposite- Its  hard and uncompliant in comfort mode but just bearable as long as the roads are not too bad. in normal or sport mode forget it- its like are hardtail  I have stripped down the shock linkages and greased all the needle rollers but this has made little difference. To remove the shock it appears that the swinging arm has to be removed amongst other things. Has anyone replaced the rear shock and can it be done without swinging arm removal?  Thanks in anticipation

Hi, I purchased a pair of LED lamps from Amazon around six months ago. They replace the dipped and high beam units. I have found that the light they emit is brilliant compared to the stock candles!. The advantage to these particular LEDs is the fact that they are no bigger than the halogen bulbs and  the driver is contained within the lamp. The stock lamp covers can easily be fitted without modification and my bike has just passed its MOT today! They can be found on Amazon- Katur H7 LED, mini design. Ive been using them for 6 months with no problems- Highly recommended upgrade for around £30