Don't forget to adjust your chain.

[raesewell]

Fair enough, I give up.

[TomL]

Dog bone link item 7

[Andym535]

Item 5 is closest to what I'd call the dog bone. The more common arrangement is to have two dog bones, a single triangular link casting with bearings in and a forked connector on the bottom of the shock. The K is different (surprise!) and has the bearings in a single dog bone casting and the bottom shock mount, with side plates (7).

One advantage of doing it the 'normal' way is that the cast triangular link (with the bearings) is fairly easy to get out, at least on a dirt bike, if you need to change the bearings. You can adjust the ride height by changing the length of the dog bones so another advantage of the 'normal' way is that the dog bones are often simple flat plates with a hole in each end, so they can be cheap to change.

Either way, it's worth greasing the bearings.

[Phmode]

Dog bone link item 7

No! Dog-bone link is item 5! You know, the one that looks like a dog bone 

I've never seen a dog gnawing on a tringular shaped bone, but then I don't have a dog 

[raesewell]

Item number 5 is a Deflection Lever according to realoem
Item number 7 is a Deflection Plate

So according to BMW there is not a dog bone in sight, or a dog to gnaw it.

[richtea]

Whatever. Which bit needs bloody greasing - 'the needle rollers' which are...? 
Maybe 12 & 13?

Do I need to take it apart, or do I apply from the outside?

Worried of Banbury :-)

[Phmode]

Just spray it with WD40.

It won't do any good and if you get it on the rear tyre it might kill you but with your self-confessed mechanical skills...

Someone with more patience will be along shortly to explain.

[TomL]

Dog bone link item 7

No! Dog-bone link is item 5! You know, the one that looks like a dog bone 

I've never seen a dog gnawing on a tringular shaped bone, but then I don't have a dog 

Just testing It is of course number 5.

Anyway when you crawl under there it makes more sense and there are three needle roller bearing which have to be cleaned out and packed with grease. Be careful because they tend to be dry when you take them apart the first time and you can end up with needle rollers all over the place.

[Phmode]

See, I told you someone with more patience would be along shortly. Thanks Tom, now they have no excuse.

And the very thought of dry needle roller bearings sends squeaks and shivers up my spine. Literally, eventually 

[Ady00]

Cows have shoulder bones that are triangle shape, just ask your local butcher dogs love them👍

[Andysdad]

Right-oh, since I'm changing my tyres this week I will repack the dogbone bearings - any idea of which type of grease? The factory manual does not say.

The factory manual does say to replace the nuts (single-use mechanical thread-lockers, BMW use them all over the place) part number 07 11 9905032 (4 required if fully disassembling).

They also say to lubricate the shorter bolt to the frame (NOT the ones on the triangular plate - why?) with Optimoly TA (aluminium paste) which is an "assembly grease" - looking online it is good up to 1100 degrees C but I'm sure my swinging arm does not get that hot..... I will use copperslip I think (EDIT - apparently copper and aluminium are not a good mix - so may have to get the TA stuff (expensive)).

All advice gladly received and sorry for the thread diversion.

A

[raesewell]

You don't need high temperature grease you want one that stays put RG2 is what I use

[kennyc]

Right-oh, since I'm changing my tyres this week I will repack the dogbone bearings - any idea of which type of grease? The factory manual does not say.

The factory manual does say to replace the nuts (single-use mechanical thread-lockers, BMW use them all over the place) part number 07 11 9905032 (4 required if fully disassembling).

They also say to lubricate the shorter bolt to the frame (NOT the ones on the triangular plate - why?) with Optimoly TA (aluminium paste) which is an "assembly grease" - looking online it is good up to 1100 degrees C but I'm sure my swinging arm does not get that hot..... I will use copperslip I think (EDIT - apparently copper and aluminium are not a good mix - so may have to get the TA stuff (expensive)).

All advice gladly received and sorry for the thread diversion.

A

coppaslip is not a lubricating grease, its an antiseize grease, plain lithium grease will do the job, personally I like grease that has a tractor on the can, it means to me that its made to do the job 

[TomL]

Doesn't every garage have a can of this on the shelf?


Halfords should have plenty of this.

[Andysdad]

Kenny, I think you’ve confused two different things. The TA paste is an antisieze for the dogbone front bolt only; I initially suggested copaslip but on further reading apparently it’s not a good idea. Something to do with water, aluminium and copper not getting on well together.

The grease is for the needle roller bearings; more reading is leading me towards a lithium complex grease or better still aluminium complex which better resist water.

Funny that you should mention tractors, JCB make a grease that looks good and is cheap, JCB Special HP. I ended up ordering the BMW Castrol TA for the bolt.

And finally, I do have a tin of Castrol LM but it was my dad's and is considerably older than the one in the above photo!