Author Topic: Heat and the Klunk  (Read 5504 times)

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Offline S BMW

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #15 on: June 28, 2019, 10:38:44 pm »
Well done most impressive my offering would be on the oil , Castrol was the oil of choice prior to BMW changing to it own brand and I believe it has an additive to aid the clutch. 👍😀

Offline TA

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2019, 01:20:39 am »
I’ve read that as you said Castrol was the original specification, power 1 racing?   In town I see lots of 10W-40 and no 5W-40.  That is why I asked about BMW changing from 10 to 5.  Were they addressing the clutch or the motor?

Andy, I put the bike into first gear and held the clutch in.  The wheel spun freely.  There was very  modest resistance, meaning it wasn’t as free as when in neutral but close. 

Offline TomL

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2019, 10:23:06 pm »
Could be an urban myth but I understand that the oil change was to do with clutch issues.
As I have grown older, I've learned that pleasing everybody is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.

Offline TA

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2019, 12:55:37 am »
Yes, I had it in the back of my mind that it had something to do with the clutch but wasn’t sure.  I didn’t want to prejudice any response.  Thanks for re enforcing that.  If that is the reason, it was another of BMWs minor peripheral attempts to deal with this clutch.   I’m thinking it likely doesn’t mater if it’s either weight.  But next oil change I will try the Castrol.   Just awhile back I put in Motul 7100. 

Offline DouglasM

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #19 on: July 18, 2019, 08:32:15 pm »
And remember, at lights, holding the clutch lever in is beneficial to the clutch lubing system.

That makes sense...Thanks

Offline TA

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #20 on: July 19, 2019, 03:44:49 am »
As long as the engine is running, oil is going through the clutch.  The fact there is that loud clunk indicates clutch drag.  Which, at best, means the plates have not completely separated or the space is filled with oil.  There is slippage between the plates, even in this condition, otherwise you could never get it into gear. 

To check to see if holding in the clutch does anything but avoid that initial clunk, try this.  With the bike running, pull the clutch lever and drop into first, clunk.  Still holding the clutch lever in, shift back into neutral pause and never having let the clutch lever go, drop back into first, clunk.  Oil is ever present, too much oil. 

In theory when you pull the clutch in, you are reducing the amount of oil delivered to the clutch.  The thrust adapter with the slots, moves into the transmission shaft.  It moves in approximately 2mm by way of the slave cylinder.  With the clutch engaged the amount the adapter is exposed is somewhere between 4 and 5mm.  The exposure of those oil delivery slots is reduced to 2-3mm when the clutch is disengaged.  Granted it’s effect on the flow is hard for me to quantify.  But there would be some back pressure in the reduced space to oil flow.  It’s like running water through a garden hose aimed at a wall.  Moving towards the wall there will come a point where the water can’t escape as fast as it’s being delivered.  As you continue close the space between the hose and the wall you eventually will reduce the flow to almost nothing.  By this time you will need a change of clothes!

gibbo

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #21 on: July 19, 2019, 10:12:32 am »
Read a couple of reports that this oil reduces 1st gear clunk. Good findings on one Kwacker forum, and if it's good enough for Ferrari then it should be fine for the K. Best to Google for further info and price/supplier etc. And no, it's no joke. Highly recommended by Pussy Galore.  :)









Offline richtea

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2019, 10:36:41 am »
Hmm, that admittedly funky tin says 5W-30, not 5W-40.

Here's the factory spec from the latest riders manual (Aug 2014), with Advantec oil recommended:




And just for pedantic completeness, the older manual (Apr 2010) says something slightly different. That was when Castrol Power-1 Racing was recommended:




I'm going to stick my neck out here, and suggest that if you have a normal BMW clutch, then BMW probably knows the best oil to use (even though they will take the extra shilling when branding it and selling it to you).

Offline Phmode

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #23 on: July 19, 2019, 11:05:02 am »
I can't get to my Ferrari for odds and sods in the garage, but I'm sure it doesn't have a wet clutch.

Course, I have been wrong before; that time I thought I'd made a mistake when I hadn't  :-*

Offline Blobby

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #24 on: July 24, 2019, 06:50:16 am »
As a clutch drag test.
Pull up to a dead stop pulling the clutch in as normal, put it in neutral but keep the clutch pulled in, then select 1st.
Is the clunk as loud as if you let the clutch off in neutral then pulled it back in to select 1st?

Offline Costas

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Re: Heat and the Klunk
« Reply #25 on: July 25, 2019, 03:25:10 pm »
Every single 2009 engine will burn oil.
Every single gear box gen 1, 2008, 2009 model will present that noise. Not the models 2010 to 2015 don't have it, but yes here is more noticeable.
Thin oil such, as amsoil, or the bmw one will make the noise more presentable more acute if you like , but will keep temperature in the basket lower and this will be a greater help for long time use of the discs. 
Embrace the wind.