Should i use anti-sieze on my wheel bolts?

[Gundog]

Hi All
I recently had cause to remove my rear wheel as i was installing a wheel hugger. On reinstallation of the wheel i noted that there was residue of some kind on these bolts applied to the bolt threads. I naively assumed that this was an anti-sieze compound, so applied new anti-sieze to the threads of the wheel bolts prior to reinstallation. Now in hind sight i find myself wondering if it was actually anti-sieze or threadlocker, and pondering that if it was threadlocker perhaps my bolts may now be prone to working loose without threadlocker on them. That said the bolts were torqued to the value specified in the cdrom manual.

Can anybody advise if i should have put either anti-sieze, threadlocker or nothing on the bolt threads when reinstalling the bolts?
Thanks for advice in advance....

[Andym535]

Nothing, just torqued to 60Nm in a diagonal sequence.

[richtea]

Threadlock on the hugger
But that's not what you asked about.

Just thought I'd throw it in there, just in case you hadn't...

[TomK1300s]

If you do your own maintenance regularly, then just cleaning the threads before refitting the studs this will do, if you use your bike off road or through winter I tend to clean the threads and then wipe each stud with a light coating of Aluminium Graphite, Not copper slip if there is Aluminium in close proximity.

[chriscanning]

Nothing, just torqued to 60Nm in a diagonal sequence.

What he said I hardly ever use a TW but single sided wheels an absolute must my old 1100s is 105nm and a wince  when i’m Doing it.

[John]

Dont put anything, except a torque wrench, on the wheel bolts!.......

[Phmode]

Been smearing all my wheel bolts and studs with copaslip since 1964 (grease back in them days) and I've never been overtaken by one of my own wheels.

Well, OK, we got overtaken by a rear wheel off a mate's Beetle on the M6 in Cheshire in about 1966 but that was a different story...

There are more conspiracy theories on wheel bolt lube/lock than on the Moon landings 

[TomL]

The Reprom states that the correct torque for the wheel bolts is 60nm. It does not recommend lubrication of the bolt threads with grease or copaslip.

I wipe the threads with a clean rag before hand tightening and then torqueing diagonally in stages.

The Reprom also states that the mating face of the wheel and flange should be clean and free of grease.

[Andym535]

Aluminium in contact with copper will suffer from galvanic corrosion if it gets wet. I know this for a fact as I put some on to try and stop the wheels on the wife's Golf sticking onto the hubs but I needed to use a fencing maul to get them off the next time. The correct assembly paste for alloy components is something like Castrol Optimol that doesn't contain copper, but I wouldn't use anything on the wheel bolts.

[Phmode]

2019 - 1964 = 55 years with never a problem.

Go figure 

[Matt]

This will all be a lot less contentious when we have hovering vehicles using solid state super conductors!

Or something.

Probably could have invented it by now if only I had one those damn oscilloscopes!

[farmer]

+1 for copper grease, using it for years...and years, small dab on wheels and a better coating on face of hub...to stop seizing. been doing this on cars,tractors even the odd lorry makes taking the wheel off simples!
-1 for threadlock ....if you don't put grease on it, rust will do the same job as threadlock, my thoughts and experience anyway.

[TomK1300s]

Correct Farmer, I have seen plenty of studs and wheel nuts over the years that have been put back dry, the stud or nut gets rusty and when taking it out it picks up on the thread and rips or strips the thread out,
years and years of experience +1
following REPROM to the word -1.

[Phmode]

 

[TomL]