New K1200S owner - with a few questions

[SpecialK]

Hi all, I've just picked up a K1200S and I'm looking forward to being a part of this forum.

I had a good read of the owner's manual online last night.

I have a few quick questions you might be able to help me with.

1. Engine oil seems to be hotly debated. I've always run Motul 7100. The opinions seem to vary on 5w40 and 10w40. Any experiences?

2. To use the BMW OEM panners do I need an additional rack?

3. Can these bikes be mapped on the dyno? Other bikes in the stable have benefitted from dyno time.

4. My bike didn't have an owner's handbook. I guess it's just a case of keeping an eye out for one on eBay?

5. The bike has ESA - does that mean getting the suspension setup won't be that beneficial?

6. Is there a preferred make/model of brake pads owners rate?

7. Anything in particular I need to look out for / check or know about?

Many thanks, Ben

[richtea]

Welcome SpecialK,

A few answers/opinions:

2. Yes, you'll need the underslung rail to hook the panniers onto, plus the two silver locking 'pins' for locking the panniers onto. See here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353424550411
That price is about right, but BMW UK may well have them too without the postage/VAT/duty hassle.
Or try a breaker.

Or you could go 3rd party - the cost will be about the same, and they're new:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164638093169

4. The K1300S is available as a PDF so I'd expect the same for a K1200, but I don't have a K1200 copy, sorry.

5. Correct. Try it first, you might like it! Most owners seem happy with it for normal road riding. If you don't, then start looking. Alternatives are in the £500-1000 range - per end. Wilburs, Hagon, etc. Or if it's faulty/tired, get it rebuilt. There are a few ESA revonators - probably in the £200-300 region per end? Others can advise.

7. Have a read of https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?topic=3984.0. Its aimed at the K1300 but some of it applies to the K1200 too. Radiators, for example are worth maintaining well.

[TomL]

6/ use OEM brake pads.

[Phmode]

Hi and welcome to the madhouse that is EuroKClub!

I only ever use BMW oil. The clutch is really fussy about this.

You say you don't have an owners handbook but also say you read the owners manual.

BMW call the Owners Handbook a Riders Manual and this includes the service stamp section. A new riders manual is available from dealers. I have a K12S riders manual in PDF format if you need one.

There is also the workshop manual called a RepROM which is available on DVD from dealers for around £100 or pirated copies are available online for around £20 which of course we don't advocate...

I would be very wary of any bike without a fully stamped up service section in the handbook, but especially a K and even more so a K12, so I really hope you have the Riders Manual with all the dealer stamps for regular services. I'm fussy like that.

If you bought the bike from a BMW dealer then it 'should' be fully up to date with all the recalls of which there were several which are potential engine and even rider killers - camchain tensioner and jump guard are in the first category, seized dog-bone links in the rear suspension are in the second category as is the fuel tank outlet cracks (but I can't remember if that applies to the K12). If you bought the bike from a non-BMW dealer then it is worth checking that all the recalls and upgrades have been done. There were full recalls but BMW only does full recalls when pushed legally except in Germany and the US, otherwise they call them campaigns which is a way of saying there is nothing really wrong but bring it in anyway. And we'll fix what isn't really wrong.

Depending on the year of your bike there may also be the dreaded low-speed fuelling issue. This was sort of fixed on early bikes with a new airbox and idle control valve kit.

As for getting the bike dyno'd, there is very little that can be done without either chipping or fitting a Power Commander. There are no adjustments on the throttle bodies for example. Chipping has been used to good effect by at least two members, although one now much prefers the PC route.

Good luck with the bike and we look forward to seeing some piccies. Who knows, it may even have belonged to one of us  a previous life. Brian

[chriscanning]

Thought you would get a few more answers Ben….I’m def in the 5/40 oil believers because the clutch and cam chain tensioners like different things,after that it’s a bottomless financial pit,you can def get these old K’s into the 21sr century but it means putting one’s hands in one pocket,even the silly things like dog bones which Brian mentioned….you trick with those is chuck e’m in the bin and buy aftermarket which jacks the back of the bike up to speed up the steering,.

Fuelling?? That’ll be either an aftermarket fuel map (Rexxer) or a Power Commander..

If you have just bought the bike,then I’d be doing plenty of home work, cuz there’s years of good mods to be found,assuming you’re prepared to pay….

Oh forgot you have ESA google Firefox racing.

[Adamus]

Here is a link to the K1200S - can't remember where I found it online:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ILpm-OeVHJRdSiHBDTLxkk0fHfXFcnQ2/view?usp=sharing

[Capt Howdy]

I’ve used CL (Carbone Lorraine) pads on my k12r and hp2 sport since new. No complaints at all.
I would definitely stay with the 5w40 oil. This was required by BMW to alleviate the k12 clutch issues. Castrol make bmw oil so you’re paying a premium price by buying bmw branded oils. I’ve used Penrite for years with no problems. 7-8k km seems to be the best time to change and I’ve done 115k km on my k12R
I don’t think you can easily calibrate the esa suspension as it operates within set parameters. Be sure to do your adjustments with no weight on the suspension ie stand off the seat. The esa only has small stepper motors and will not handle adjustments for long with rider weight as well. Hope this helps