Pannier Lock Removal

[richtea]

It's a fair cop. 

[Mike_BWM]

These photos are of my lock unit removed from the case. (This is the opposite case from the unit shown in the photo above).

First remove the light grey lever case opening return spring.


The light grey latch lever is obstructing access to the lock barrel release latch.


Insert key and rotate fully anti clockwise. Open light grey lever. Without the spring fitted it will stay open.

Insert a thin screwdriver as shown and depress the barrel retaining lever.


The barrel with key can now be pulled out. The screwdriver is pointing at the barrel retaining lever which protrudes slightly.
When the correct lock levers and springs are fitted, they will be flush with the outside diameter of the barrel as shown here.


To refit the barrel, the case catches are closed and the locking catch that the lock barrel rotates is rotated completely clockwise with a flat blade screwdriver.

The lock barrel and key are inserted with the retaining lever facing outwards as shown. It should click into place.

Hi all. Let me first thank everybody in this thread for the conversation as this led me to victory ;-)
I  have bought second hand Sport Panniers for my K1300S but it had the key of the former owner. Of course I wanted to be able to use my own ignition key for this. After examing the insight of the case and reading this thread I tried the following with success. While there was suggested in this thread to remove the whole mechanism from the insight of the case first I did not want to do that (and did not believe this was neccessary). I also wanted to share some pictures  with you but not sure how to attach them.

Removed the middle screw in the insight of the case. The middle one of the 3 in triangle most outside of the case and almost inline with the lock. Took an electrical wire and stripped it for about 5 cm bending it for a couple of millimeters at the end of the wire. Now pushed the electrical wire in the whole for about 5 cm's (the one were I removed the screw offcourse) and tried to find the end of the lock were you have to press on the end pin for the lock to come out. After some tries succeeded with both cases. Programming both locks et voila!

PS: I think Tom is entering the cilinder back upside down and therefore you can't get to the pin anymore in the way I describe because than the pin ends up on the bottum side of the case and you can't get to it anymore through the whole.

And now with some pictures! That said make sure that when you put back the cilinder in the suitcase after programming you put the pin upwards towards the screwhole so that removal in this way keeps working :-) Before trying I sprayed the cilinder with a littel bit WD-40.

[Mike_BWM]

Well, you win this years 'Best First Post' award! So far. 
Have an applaud - for images & quality images at that.

But quick, add your approximate position before Rae gets you!
[Edit: you've done that too. A second applaud]

You been at Matt's magic mushroom cider again Richard? There are no pictures for the 'quality images' to relate to. They were all old ones from TomL

You are right. I was not up to speed yet with reply function and how to add pictures but Rae helped me out. Added some of my own pictures now in the end of this thread/post. Thanks again all!
/Mike

[raesewell]

Well, you win this years 'Best First Post' award! So far. 
Have an applaud - for images & quality images at that.

But quick, add your approximate position before Rae gets you!
[Edit: you've done that too. A second applaud]

You been at Matt's magic mushroom cider again Richard? There are no pictures for the 'quality images' to relate to. They were all old ones from TomL

You are right. I was not up to speed yet with reply function and how to add pictures but Rae helped me out. Added some of my own pictures now in the end of this thread/post. Thanks again all!
/Mike

Shhhh Mike, I have a reputation to uphold, people will start to think I'm a nice guy 

[Phmode]

Some hope!

[farmer]

super write up and pics, the only minor thing i would change is your lubrication, wd40 and the like are ok for removal but on reassembly i would dry everything and do your cylinder with graphite dust as dust and dirt can't adhere to it. if your really miserable a pencil rubbed up and down the cylinder and lock tabs will do the job ....yeah me, but it was one of those late night jobs.

[Steve404]

These photos are of my lock unit removed from the case. (This is the opposite case from the unit shown in the photo above).

First remove the light grey lever case opening return spring.


The light grey latch lever is obstructing access to the lock barrel release latch.


Insert key and rotate fully anti clockwise. Open light grey lever. Without the spring fitted it will stay open.

Insert a thin screwdriver as shown and depress the barrel retaining lever.


The barrel with key can now be pulled out. The screwdriver is pointing at the barrel retaining lever which protrudes slightly.
When the correct lock levers and springs are fitted, they will be flush with the outside diameter of the barrel as shown here.


To refit the barrel, the case catches are closed and the locking catch that the lock barrel rotates is rotated completely clockwise with a flat blade screwdriver.

The lock barrel and key are inserted with the retaining lever facing outwards as shown. It should click into place.

Hi all. Let me first thank everybody in this thread for the conversation as this led me to victory ;-)
I  have bought second hand Sport Panniers for my K1300S but it had the key of the former owner. Of course I wanted to be able to use my own ignition key for this. After examing the insight of the case and reading this thread I tried the following with success. While there was suggested in this thread to remove the whole mechanism from the insight of the case first I did not want to do that (and did not believe this was neccessary). I also wanted to share some pictures  with you but not sure how to attach them.

Removed the middle screw in the insight of the case. The middle one of the 3 in triangle most outside of the case and almost inline with the lock. Took an electrical wire and stripped it for about 5 cm bending it for a couple of millimeters at the end of the wire. Now pushed the electrical wire in the whole for about 5 cm's (the one were I removed the screw offcourse) and tried to find the end of the lock were you have to press on the end pin for the lock to come out. After some tries succeeded with both cases. Programming both locks et voila!

PS: I think Tom is entering the cilinder back upside down and therefore you can't get to the pin anymore in the way I describe because than the pin ends up on the bottum side of the case and you can't get to it anymore through the whole.

And now with some pictures! That said make sure that when you put back the cilinder in the suitcase after programming you put the pin upwards towards the screwhole so that removal in this way keeps working :-) Before trying I sprayed the cilinder with a littel bit WD-40.

So (as the youngsters say) I intend to convert the locks on my sports panniers to match the key of the new bike I have, and thanks to all for the lock removal guidance.

Once the locks are removed do I need to buy new barrels and tumblers https://www.bmw-motorrad-bohling.com/uk/bmw-codeable-key-cylinder-for-sport-panniers-system-panniers-touring-panniers-top-case-49-liter-and-bmw-top-case-28-liter.html or do you 'rearrange' the existing tumblers in the exisiting lock barrels to match the key of the new bike?

Thanks in anticipation and that.

Steve.

[Matt]

I just rearranged. Found a home for 90% of them!

[Phmode]

You don't actually need a tumbler in every slot, it just mKes it less secure. But not as secure as not having any in there 

[Frank The Alien]

I am having exactly the same issue with brand new panniers - we assembled the barrel to fit bike key - then isnerted the barrel into pannier - everything worked but key would not come out. Thats when we had to disassemble as per the diagram with the helpful cat.


By pressing the the lock pin - in the 'black hole'  - we were able to release the barrell.

Now not sure where we went wrong - my only thought is  that we were 180deg out when inserting the lock barrell ?

I also note that we do not seem to have the retaining pin that sits thought he very bottom of the barrell - and there is no mention of iy with the instrcutions.

Any advise eagerly received ?

THx


Stu

[Phmode]

So, does the key come out once the lock is removed?

[Frank The Alien]

Yes once barrel removed from pannier key comes out.

We went back to drawing board and realised we had put a tumbler in where it should have been left blank - slot after the stop plate (at 180 deg).

Schoolboy error    - all now fine and Dandy.

Thanks for all the help - on the previous posts, especially the ones with pictures.

Stu