We will be moving to Abergele . Really looking forward to it , the roads in Wales sre great for bikes . There seems to be a much higher Police prescence on the roads. I think the new 20MPH limit will take a bit of getting used to !!!!



Nice one Kev, only 10 minutes down the road. If you need to see a K in the flesh and are up this end, give me a shout and I can tell you and show you the good and bad points! I have a 2015 Motorsport, its my 2nd K, love em.

Quote from: andym2 on June 18, 2022, 08:55:07 pm

The HP logo on the can?

We have a winner! Well done Andy.
You pipped Matt at the post.

And no, I haven't the faintest idea why either. Did they run out of standard Akra stock? Or maybe someone had a gentle righthand side drop? (I did an HPI check for write-offs but there was nothing.)

My 2015 Motorsport also came to me adorned with the Designed for HP Akro,instead of the usual Titanium moniker? Must make them really special, only other one I've seen!!

Hi, fairly certain the screen was BMW tinted standard. The torque arm was a different matter, it ca fitted to the bike when I bought it and I left it on, made the rear end pretty taught and 'seemed' to work well, single piece of milled aluminium, but no idea of the manufacturer or its origins sorry.

Steve

Quote from: Mike_BWM on March 19, 2021, 04:07:03 pm

Quote from: TomL on December 25, 2018, 12:37:13 am

These photos are of my lock unit removed from the case. (This is the opposite case from the unit shown in the photo above).

First remove the light grey lever case opening return spring.


The light grey latch lever is obstructing access to the lock barrel release latch.


Insert key and rotate fully anti clockwise. Open light grey lever. Without the spring fitted it will stay open.

Insert a thin screwdriver as shown and depress the barrel retaining lever.


The barrel with key can now be pulled out. The screwdriver is pointing at the barrel retaining lever which protrudes slightly.
When the correct lock levers and springs are fitted, they will be flush with the outside diameter of the barrel as shown here.


To refit the barrel, the case catches are closed and the locking catch that the lock barrel rotates is rotated completely clockwise with a flat blade screwdriver.

The lock barrel and key are inserted with the retaining lever facing outwards as shown. It should click into place.

Hi all. Let me first thank everybody in this thread for the conversation as this led me to victory ;-)
I  have bought second hand Sport Panniers for my K1300S but it had the key of the former owner. Of course I wanted to be able to use my own ignition key for this. After examing the insight of the case and reading this thread I tried the following with success. While there was suggested in this thread to remove the whole mechanism from the insight of the case first I did not want to do that (and did not believe this was neccessary). I also wanted to share some pictures  with you but not sure how to attach them.

Removed the middle screw in the insight of the case. The middle one of the 3 in triangle most outside of the case and almost inline with the lock. Took an electrical wire and stripped it for about 5 cm bending it for a couple of millimeters at the end of the wire. Now pushed the electrical wire in the whole for about 5 cm's (the one were I removed the screw offcourse) and tried to find the end of the lock were you have to press on the end pin for the lock to come out. After some tries succeeded with both cases. Programming both locks et voila!

PS: I think Tom is entering the cilinder back upside down and therefore you can't get to the pin anymore in the way I describe because than the pin ends up on the bottum side of the case and you can't get to it anymore through the whole.

And now with some pictures! That said make sure that when you put back the cilinder in the suitcase after programming you put the pin upwards towards the screwhole so that removal in this way keeps working :-) Before trying I sprayed the cilinder with a littel bit WD-40.

So (as the youngsters say) I intend to convert the locks on my sports panniers to match the key of the new bike I have, and thanks to all for the lock removal guidance.

Once the locks are removed do I need to buy new barrels and tumblers https://www.bmw-motorrad-bohling.com/uk/bmw-codeable-key-cylinder-for-sport-panniers-system-panniers-touring-panniers-top-case-49-liter-and-bmw-top-case-28-liter.html or do you 'rearrange' the existing tumblers in the exisiting lock barrels to match the key of the new bike?

Thanks in anticipation and that.

Steve.

Afternoon all, as above had this beauty for about 5 years, but just acquired a Motorsport edition, cos I wanted one, so this one has to go sadly.

2009 BMW K1300s, just over 30,000 miles in grey, lots of dealer history until a couple of years ago since when I have regularly changed the oil and filters and attended to her every whim.

Fantastic overall condition for its age, washed and dried after every use, and looked after me in tours of Scotland, Ireland and the IOM.

Reasonably new Michelin PR5's, and HID main headlight fitted and also led 'sidelight' bulb fitted to ensure being seen.

Lots of MOT's available and never issued an advisory, I have now SORN'd her and she has 12 months MOT.

Has a Remus Hexacone silencer fitted which sounds great through the gears (standard can will come with it). standard accessories ESA (rear spring has lost its whiteness), aftermarket aluminium torsion bar, ABS etc, fitted new EBC brake pads front and back last year, starts first time every time, and I will be sad to see her go.

I am based in Prestatyn in North Wales and am looking for a price which seems to be the average of £4500 (will haggle a little)

https://i.ibb.co/wh5cxyS/P1090059.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/3r8gFDv/IMG-4414.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/XjFjLFr/IMG-6030.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/KWcTC7L/IMG-6272.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/6WZjh7m/IMG-6269.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Y2gZqKN/IMG-6455.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/jMzdgPL/IMG-6278.jpg

Thanks for looking, tell your friends.

Steve

I've just plunged into the world of communications and purchased a Sena srl-02 set up for my Shoei GT 2 Air lid, must say they blend together well, not really used it in much anger as we are not allowed out on our bikes in Wales yet!!

This is a common'ish failure.

You want one of these...

https://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products/cpc-plastic-and-brass-couplings/2/fuel-line-couplings/61/brass-coupling-bodies/150/pipe-thread-valved-male-thread/649/clcd100040v/

...not cheap but then the front suspension will break before that does 

All hail the Guru that is Brian, contacted Tom Parker, spoke with Shane, the relevant milled replacement coupling arrived next day https://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products/cpc-plastic-and-brass-couplings/2/fuel-line-couplings/61/brass-coupling-inserts/152/elbow-valved-hose-barb/654/clcd230-04v/ (agreed not cheap at around £30 delivered) however quality item, fitted and now fuel tight again

Still amazed that using 'inferior' plastic coupling allowed this to happen after a pothole strike! Anyhow, just the wheel to sort out and ready to go as soon as quarantine is over.

Steve, North wales Correspondent.

Thanks again all for the advice and instruction, it's a lovely place.