Just found this

[Kbricks for me]

I have just been directed to look at this site and with my quite late (1998) K1100LT I think I qualify to be a member. A lovely bike with very low miles for the age (17500 when I bought it) but due to a certain lack of care, there are one or two issues that are having to be dealt with or simply bypassed.

It came with fully stamped service record - but - I think these are dealer views on servicing - not mine. It is supposed to have had an oil change at 16000 miles, but the oil is, errr, well quite black, not brown, but BLACK. The brake master cylinders both had to be overhauled with new seals. The fork oils were at best described as 'grubby', as it the air filter, I don't think it has been changed since the bike was new.. The saving grace (and a lot of work) is the valve clearances are perfect!

After me taking ownership the ABS went AWOL. It had been working perfectly during a long run, but after a stop for coffee it would not reset. A trip to a BMW dealer to be looked at on a diagniostic computer showed no fault! What was suggest was going to cost me almost as much as I paid for the bike; so I have just disabled the ABS warning light by removing the relay and the console bulb. The brakes still work and it passed the MOT.

[Phmode]

Hi there Kbricks for me and welcome to the madhouse that is EuroKClub. Glad you found us and you would certainly qualify, if we had any qualification criteria 

As we're a friendly bunch in here, perhaps you'd care to pop into the 'Who's Who' section and introduce yourself and perhaps stick an easier name to address you by in your profile.

Brian (who thinks you may now be the resident Kbrick expert)

[Kbricks for me]

K Brick expert - I think not. 

I am in the middle of carrying out a full major service on the LT and have come across something that I have never seen on my two previous K1100LT's, indeed any of my previous K's. On the 'T' shaped cover over the Hall Sensor is what appears to be a 10mm threaded stud protruding out from the cover and fitted to this is what looks like rubber washer and a 10mm Hex nut. Without removing all the fairing I cannot get to it easily but will post a picture of this 'wart'.

I am not going to touch it until I can find out what it is.

[Phmode]

Try jumping 240v across it and see if the bike 'hovers' 

Brian (who supposes some folks might try this, so don't try this)

[Costas]

Welcome, glad we can talk about a dissent bike like old the LT . First as you already know those belong to the ones made to last forever. Now the ABS issue most probably is just the rear connector cable that has the tendency to brake exactly at the connector position, now that you do the service take a better look, those ABS simple units with only regular change in fluid work forever. The other might be the headlight adjuster or the top supporter.

[bobtail]

Welcome KBricks4me and you are very welcome even if your bike is older than mine!
Had a go on an LT once didn't they have a reverse gear at one stage. I'm sure I had some great fun going backwards round the  car park at a heady 5 m.p.h. I think it worked off the starter motor or summat like that.

Bob

[raesewell]

The reverse was on the 12 Bob not the 11 as far as I know.

[Kbricks for me]

I wish I had a reverse. My garage is down hill (slightly) and there is no room to turn at the bottom so I have to back the bike up over the dropped kerb then the pavement which is cambered towards the road and hope I manage to get to the correct side of the garage away from the K75.  At nights this can be 'interesting'.

[Snowy]

The ABS II is very fussy about the earth when you reset it via the 3 pin diagnostics connector under the seat. I had to try quite a few times before I was able to reset the ABS even though there was nothing wrong with it - in the end I have bolted an earth cable to the frame under the seat which lives there permanently. Of course, that was over a decade ago and I've not had the dreaded alternate flashing ABS lights since on my RS!  I would also recommend bleeding the ABS module as well as the normal brake circuit - do the modulator first. The rear bleed nipple is the front brake and vice versa.
 

[Kbricks for me]

I have more or less abandoned the ABS. The diagnostic check found no faults when it was tested and I have more to do with my life than worry about dodgy electrics.

The brakes work, they are not spongy and they will be suitable for the MOT. I told my insurance and their attitude was almost - "So what. Thanks for letting us know."

[Kbricks for me]

I have had the LT back to a BMW dealer, not an independant and the result was just the same - no faults found. Thier opinion was if there had been a bad earth or a fault anywhere in the system  it would have shown up. I have disabled it again and faced with a huge bill to replace everything will cost ......errr.....quite a lot, I have decided to eventually remove the ABS completely but I'm not sure what to remove or not.

Obviously the ABS box and the associated electrics sealed off. I would have to replace the brake piping, and was wondering if the standard EARLY K100LT piping would fit. Any other pointers?

On the upside, I told my insurance company and they were not phased by the change of specification and simply said "Thank you for letting us know we have just made a note on the file" That was it, no extra charge - nothing. So they are not all sharks as some would have us believe.

[Costas]

The old one will fit, just pay attention on the electrics, there you will need help.
Still I do not honestly believe they can not identify the problem.
IMHO, this is obviously an electric issue and maybe they do not want to loose many hours for search and found mission, since there is a certain amount they can charge for labor, they probably done the maths and say ok is not good deal for us, and  dismiss you, by offering a solution like replace all, not a good treatment for a costumer.
Damn it we payed a lot about those bikes we demand more by the stealers.
PS LT's suppose to be one of the easier models for troubleshooting and it is.

[Phmode]

It's an interesting conundrum removing the ABS.

I had a SAAB 9000 whose ABS went AWOL just prior to the MoT. Nothing wrong with the brakes, just no ABS. One instant fail, 'thank you very much sir!'.

When I queried the issue I was told that if the vehicle had ABS, then it couldn't be removed without submitting it to VOSA for an inspection and if it was fitted, it had to work, including the warning light.

Brian (who remembers we had a thread running on this in the old site and we never got to the bottom of this apparent discrepancy)

[Kbricks for me]

I checked up on this and the requirement brought in during 2012 appears to be for cars and above only. There is no mention of motorcycles. I have also checked with a couple of testing stations and one of those was one run by the Dept Transport and the answer was the same. The other was the same bike dealer that tested my K75, and he stated if the bike passed the brake test requirement on the rollers, then it was a pass. (The K75 didn't have ABS from new).

In fact the well known parts dealer Motorworks makes a kit for replacing the ABS when it was stripped out.

[Phmode]

That last bit pees me off Kbricks. I called Motorworks a couple of years ago cos I was paranoid about my ABS going west. I asked if it was possible to remove it and go to non-ABS brakes and said it wasn't.

Brian (who supposes that they could have taken his suggestion of a kit to heart, in which case, where's his commision?)