EuroKClub
General forum area => K1200 / K1300 Forum => Topic started by: drumwrecker on November 18, 2017, 01:47:41 pm
-
There is a lot of movement on one of my front discs and rattles and I guess needs replacement.
Sherlocks have a used pair, 9000+ miles for £199 in excellent condition.
Should I buy them or new Brembo discs for the same almost the same price?
I haven't removed it for inspection and wonder what part is worn.
I'm tempted towards Sherlock's s/h as they are original, made of the right material etc.
Any advice ill be gratefully accepted.
-
New Brembos any day if it was me. Whats so great about BMW OE discs that are probably made by a supplier anyway as opposed to the no 1 leading brake manufacturer.
-
Wasn't there a post a year or so ago about cheap Brombo disks from Italy?
-
Yes I found it.
Did you buy your Brembos from carpimoto.com David and how good or bad were they
-
Yes I found it.
Did you buy your Brembos from carpimoto.com David and how good or bad were they
I had mine for my GT from them, good price, genuine brembo oro discs I think that look just like oem bmw ones
-
these are the discs David was looking at http://www.carpimoto.it/en-GB/Bike_BMW_K-1300-S/Specific/Brakes/Brake-Discs/23937_168B407D7-Brembo-Serie-Oro-Brake-Disc-168B407D7.htm (http://www.carpimoto.it/en-GB/Bike_BMW_K-1300-S/Specific/Brakes/Brake-Discs/23937_168B407D7-Brembo-Serie-Oro-Brake-Disc-168B407D7.htm)
Are they the same as yours?
-
I haven't swapped my disks (yet). I just made a mental note of the post in anticipation. If my disks needed replacing then I'd use these Brembos.
-
these are the discs David was looking at http://www.carpimoto.it/en-GB/Bike_BMW_K-1300-S/Specific/Brakes/Brake-Discs/23937_168B407D7-Brembo-Serie-Oro-Brake-Disc-168B407D7.htm (http://www.carpimoto.it/en-GB/Bike_BMW_K-1300-S/Specific/Brakes/Brake-Discs/23937_168B407D7-Brembo-Serie-Oro-Brake-Disc-168B407D7.htm)
Are they the same as yours?
Look the same as I had for my GT been on a couple of years now with no problems
-
There is a lot of movement on one of my front discs and rattles and I guess needs replacement.
Sherlocks have a used pair, 9000+ miles for £199 in excellent condition.
Should I buy them or new Brembo discs for the same almost the same price?
I haven't removed it for inspection and wonder what part is worn.
I'm tempted towards Sherlock's s/h as they are original, made of the right material etc.
Any advice ill be gratefully accepted.
Your problem is not exactly the discs but the bobbins or washers on the mounting bolts.
-
...and they are meant to float after all.
-
...and they are meant to float after all.
Yup and some float more than others. If I wheel my GS I can hear the discs moving.
-
I doing a David Tom, just preparing the ground in case they are needed.
-
I doing a David Tom, just preparing the ground in case they are needed.
I can't remember if your bike has the bobbins attached to the discs?
-
New Brembos any day if it was me. Whats so great about BMW OE discs that are probably made by a supplier anyway as opposed to the no 1 leading brake manufacturer.
BMW ones are Brembo, Kim :)
-
I doing a David Tom, just preparing the ground in case they are needed.
I can't remember if your bike has the bobbins attached to the discs?
Yes they do Tom although BMW call them rivets which I guess is more correct by the way they are fixed to the disc.
-
I wonder if they could be removed and the original type of bolts and washers fitted?
-
So is changing the discs straight forward enough for a basic mechanic like me. Got a pair of discs for £150 ( new) ....
-
I did my rear disc years ago on one of the BMW bikes, and knowing me I'd say that means it must be pretty easy :D.
-
As with everything regarding brakes just make sure bolts are torqued to manufacturers settings and correct grade of loctite is used.
-
Cheers folks.
Looks straightforward enough...just swap over fittings from old to new ( i just have the discs themselves ), thanks
-
Don't forget to clean the threads and use blue loctite
-
+1 on clean the threads and Blue Loctite (Loctite 243). I'd clean the caliper pistons while you have them apart. Otherwise it is pretty easy, but take your time and enjoy getting up close with the parts and understanding how it all works.
-
Had a bit of a stock take the other day and found these, must have bought them 7/8 years ago they'll come in handy one day no doubt.
(https://i.ibb.co/FzY0C60/2020-10-13-16-21-03.jpg)
With 6 bikes on the go, non have either stock wheels or discs, I've never used Loctite but the belt and bracers will do no harm, two things I'd concentrate on...all the surfaces are clean and the discs are seating well on the wheel, and most important of all is using a torque wrench, it needs to be 90 degree's to the bolt and tighten up with a sweeping turn, do it wrong and you get a wrong setting.
-
...and new bolts :)
-
...and new bolts :)
+1
-
Never have done,....just bought a new pair of carbon Dymags for my KTM and won’t be using new bolts on those either.
-
When I did the discs on the K12:
buy new discs bolts bobbins and wavy washers,
put bike on rear axle stand,
realise RG front axle stand does not work on K12, contact RG and get told that there are little dimples on the bottom of the fork legs for the stand to hook into. Debate sarky reply and not bother self
buy Wunderlich front axle stand and install,
take front mudguard off,
take the brake callipers off,
wobble the wheel to see if the bearings are still OK,
buy axle spindle key,
remember about the pinch bolt when undoing the axle,
take axle out,
take wheel to have bearings replaced,
use long bar on wrench to get original loctited disc bolts out,
clean the wheel as its so easy when its out and all the brakes are off, and do the wheel carriers too
install new discs with new bolts bobbins and washers and torque wrench, put all the bolts in hand tight before torquing up, check the discs still float,
clean the callipers ,
replace the pads,
decide to take all the fairing panels and radiator surround off, release radiator fan and clean radiator from rear with MucOff, fairy liquid, brake cleaner, water, anything else you can think of with a brush because its so easy when the wheel is out, replace
replace the wheel,
replace the callipers, pump brakes until pads grab discs before setting off down drive
replace the mudguard
go for test ride
temperature gauge still goes up after 5 mins in traffic but persuade self its better than it was
realise ABS warning light is on, get checked at BMW
get told you need a new ABS pump
Actually replacing the discs probably took about 45 minutes to an hour somewhere in the middle of the saga
-
Ancient jolly track and a lump of old wood under the bottom of the headers is far easier than a front axle stand.
-
Duly noted
-
Ancient jolly track and a lump of old wood under the bottom of the headers is far easier than a front axle stand.
No it isn’t...no clamp on the bottom of the forks that has to come off, just a bolt to undo before putting the stand underneath.
Or buy the right stand for the job...
(https://i.ibb.co/2YrqbcT/2020-10-14-19-41-12.jpg)
-
Oh yes it is...
Trolley jack and timber is far easier. No restriction to access as with a front stand, front wheel still pivots to get to everything without clambering all round the bike and it makes it far easier to clean stuff while you are in there.
If front stands were the best way, one wonders why dealers don't use them. Every one I've seen has a lift under the headers
-
Anyone thinking of the above have a look at what holds the headers on....and this bloke want to jack half a ton of bike up on them....
-
As I say, take a peek in the dealer's workshop.
And last time I checked, a K weighed in at 1/4 ton.
-
Brian your starting to sound like my 92 year old mother....just because everyone else is jumping in the canal that don’t Make it right....What you are advocating is a bodge something that is done on other people’s bikes that they don’t know about but certainly not on ones own pride a joy.
What you are suggesting is about as mechanically pleasant as myxomatosis and rabbits but hey ho each to their own...
-
Does she jack hers up on the pipes too?
Back to the subject though:
- 4 header pipes * 2(?) studs = 8 lots of stress points / 320KG weight = only 40 Kg each
- the stud nut to engine block distance is pretty short, so the force * distance doesn't create a huge moment
Other considerations:
- about 1/4 of that 320Kg will be taken by the weight going through the rear wheel (pro)
- weight may not be evenly distributed across all 8 (con)
Sounds reasonable to me.
-
Brian your starting to sound like my 92 year old mother....just because everyone else is jumping in the canal that don’t Make it right....What you are advocating is a bodge something that is done on other people’s bikes that they don’t know about but certainly not on ones own pride a joy.
What you are suggesting is about as mechanically pleasant as myxomatosis and rabbits but hey ho each to their own...
I think your mother is far wiser than her son and I am honoured and very proud to be sounding like her.
I imagine, were she to ride a bicycle at her wonderful age, she might do so sitting on the saddle, just like everyone else always has always done and not by sitting on the front wheel...
-
Oh, and as the years creep ever by and my memory isn't what it used to be, I forgot to add that most of the 250'odd kgs are nowhere near the trolley jack. They are of course on the centre stand. How could one forget such a wonderful thing.
And if you don't have one, you should NEVER stick a trolley jack under your headers! Just don't ask me why I know that...
-
either way would work guys ....relax , as just noted its only holding the balance of the bike, most of the weight is on the center stand and the back wheel acts as a stopper. my issue with the headers way (hehe) is having to take off the belly pan.
the correct way to do it is tie the back of the bike down to your correctly positioned forklift , you can also tie to the handlebars but that is really only done if you need a lot of clearance or are very cross and need to show the bike whose boss...again, don't ask me how i know.
-
my issue with the headers way (hehe) is having to take off the belly pan.
I never take mine off. Just a short length of timber under the two 2 into 1 collector boxes within the width of the belly pan opening and the jobs a good un.
-
well that evens it up, good tip, although a fat person on the back seat will also work, best tied to bike in case you leave it overnight.
-
No centre stand and I'm happy to use a trolley jack beneath the headers.
-
Wooo! Scary Tom. I would accept that you are an experienced mechanic but gravity bites...
-
I do use an Abba bike stand seeing as I don't have a centre stand.
-
Thinking of getting one of these, has anyone experience of them?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361167657074?ViewItem=&item=361167657074&ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:GB:1123
-
At that price, I'd be tempted to spend just a little more and get the real thing:
https://www.bmw-motorrad-bohling.com/bmw-center-stand-for-bmw-k1300s-and-k1300r.html
Or a secondhand one from a trusted supplier:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-K1200S-2005-30-495-miles-centre-main-stand-3141/154125834368?hash=item23e29d9880:g:MFEAAOSwe6dffcUn
-
I like to be able to have a temporary stand for maintenance only. Unfortunately Abba have stopped the K1300 adaptor kits and I've been casually looking for used Abba stand on ebay but to no avail. I'm at 20K so really should be doing rear diff oil and spline greasing.
-
Also use a ABBA for the serious stuff everything else is this including parking the garage makes life very easy.
Oh its a Ducati stand with K1200 pin.
(https://i.ibb.co/mDNwkWR/2020-10-21-16-36-11.jpg)
-
I've an R & G pin for a rear stand if that's of any use. Happy to send for price of postage . I bought it thinking it might fit my generic stand for my vfr 800. ..Needless to say it didn't.