Author Topic: Adjusting the clutch bite point  (Read 6463 times)

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Offline Ratbag

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2021, 11:17:24 am »
Thanks for the post. I will be looking at this, to improve the clutch position.

I feel the the lever only acts on the master cyclinder, the adjustment will not change the fluid  or operation of the hydraulic performance.

Regards

Online Matt

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2021, 11:22:05 am »
Hi Nigel, welcome to the forum! Is it the 30th Edition you ride?
"Why was the spider disappointed after browsing the web? Because he couldn't find any fly downloads!"
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Offline TA

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2021, 03:38:05 am »
I don’t remember the details about the threaded master cylinder rod with that blob of paint.  But there seemed to be a ‘correct’ position for that rod.  It had something to do with with the holes through which the fluid flowed in-front of the piston and back filled behind.  If screwed in so the intake hole was never uncovered, the quantity of fluid pushing the slave would never change.  So as the clutch wears, no compensation in the fluid can take place. If this is so, an easy check if the screw is changed so it did cover that hole would be to open the reservoir and pull the clutch in.  If the hole is not covered, you should see the fluid level drop.  If covered, no change.  One more thought, if the hole is covered there could be less fluid to push the slave cylinder.  That means less plate separation within the clutch - bigger klunk.  I’m memory dredging here. 

Offline AndyLP

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #18 on: March 08, 2021, 06:34:46 pm »
Thanks for the information.  Luckily my clutch is fine but may not be on my next K  :)

Offline TA

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #19 on: March 09, 2021, 03:02:58 pm »
Another thought here.  It may be to little considering all that is going on, but for some it might help.  The clutch lever should be set all the way out from the grip.  Moving  the lever towards the grip shortens the travel of the piston in the master cylinder.  That means less fluid to push the slave cylinder and incrementally less separation in the plates. 

Offline Phmode

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #20 on: March 09, 2021, 04:25:08 pm »
This would only be true if the lever, when set fully in, hits the grip before it reaches the end of its travel.

Properly adjusted for your span of grip is the safest way and can't alter the clutch slave cylinder throw, it is only the lever that moves, not the mechanism.

Offline TA

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #21 on: March 10, 2021, 02:47:38 pm »
Well I’m no expert, but looking at the lever travel, with it set in the furthest position, the piston does not stop moving until the lever hits the grip.  To me that indicates the maximum amount of fluid pushed down to the slave = maximum slave movement.   In hydraulics the fluid does not compress.  So using up some  of the lever travel by repositioning would lessen the travel of the piston. 

What I did say was there is a lot going on with this clutch.  And with the design allowances contributing to this clutch’s characteristics, it likely doesn’t overcome these alone.   But it does look to me, lessening the lever travel, lessons the slave travel, lessons the plate separation.   

As far as ergonomics go, the angle of the lever is exactly opposite to the angle our finger tips make.  Those old levers that were hinged out near the baby finger make more sense ergonomically.  All lines up nicely.  I use shorty levers for just my index and middle finger.  The further reach is not as awkward.

Offline Phmode

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2021, 11:57:21 am »
The piston stops moving long before the lever hits the grip. As far as I know, the lever operates the piston on a sort of cam so, clutch wear aside, the clutch is fully disengaged long before the lever gets to the bar. The additional lever travel has no effect on clutch slave piston travel.

If this were not the case then everyone who likes levers close to the bar, like me, would have clutch drag. Which they don't.

Offline TA

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2021, 04:11:59 pm »
I see the cam action you noted.  Seems to me a cam will loose all potencial movement only when the two pivot points line up with the piston.  In this case the mechanism has a stop that never allows the two pivot points to line up.  Yes, the starting point is always the same no matter where the lever is set to.  But the finished position of that cam action will be further along the arc with the lever furthest out.  Yes, the distance the piston moves diminishes as those pivot points are approached.  There is clutch drag no matter where the lever is positioned.

In practical terms, I’m right behind you.  The engineering has built it allowances.  For me looking at this clutch has been like reverse error stacking.  What collection of bits and pieces might contribute to this clutch drag?  After having spent way to much time looking at this, I endorse what you have said about simply never going from neutral into first.  I don’t consider it a waste of time looking into this clutch.  I have learned so much having started with zero knowledge.   Hats off to the theoretical and its companion the practical.

Offline Hornet

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #24 on: May 23, 2021, 06:54:53 pm »
I recently fitted a k1300 clutch slave cylinder to my 2005 K1200S, the clutch still has the original thrust adapter and had no slippage or major noises etc.
The K1300 slave has less throw than than the K1200 and I now have clutch noise until I pull in the clutch lever, so it must be the initial pre engaged point that is causing the problem as if I pull in the clutch lever a little, the rattle stops!
I believe its possible to adjust a small screw that pre engage the slave cylinder slightly more to replicate the K1200 slave piston position !?
Regards,
Frank