Author Topic: K1300 exhaust headers  (Read 1402 times)

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Online Phmode

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Re: K1300 exhaust headers
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2023, 05:58:52 pm »
Anything is mendable.

It needs the whole thing bolting to a solid steel face before setting about it, with the silencer end in a fixed jig thingummy. Then, cut out the bad bit, replace it with a good bit of steel and start over making it up.

The problem is the time it takes is not worth the price anyone would be willing to pay.

If the guy who knackered mine had bothered to bolt the flanges to a steel bar before he started, what he produced would have been well worth what he charged me, which was a paltry £60. But he didn't and his welding pulled the four headers around and it looked like a Medusa after he had finished with it.

If only I could weld...

Offline armstrongracer

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Re: K1300 exhaust headers
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2023, 06:17:49 pm »
Pinholes are weldable, cracks are weldable, if its failed inside the collector and is leaking betwwen the headers its an absolute pig to fix.  If you try to throw weld between the pipes, they will move and you wont get flanges to line up once the weld has cooled. Someone probably needs to cut up a header set that's leaking between the pipes and investigate the mechanism of failure.  Only by proper root cause analysis can the failure mode be found and a proper repair strategy devised.  It appears to be such a common failure that I'm surprised an enterprising person isn't offering a repair service.

Online Phmode

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Re: K1300 exhaust headers
« Reply #17 on: December 17, 2023, 02:43:42 pm »
All the failures I have seen (both of mine and two others) were in the 0° angle between port 1-3 and 2-4 (whichever it is ::) ) and between the two 2 into 1 in the final collector. As you say, virtually impossible to clean out and get into.

I think you need to set up a repair line... :thumbsup:

Offline TomL

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Re: K1300 exhaust headers
« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2023, 05:49:31 pm »
I think that the headers need to be bolted to a cylinder head while the welding is done. This should stop the flanges at the head from moving out of line.
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