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Messages - Grumpy jase

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1
K1200 / K1300 Forum / Re: Brake woes
« on: March 26, 2024, 09:24:21 am »
Update,
Fitted the new pads over the weekend, fronts went on no problem, but the rears again didn't want to push out, and were just pulsing in and out with the lever.  The lever seemed to have a lot of travel.  With the below post in my head, I checked the rear reservoir and found the same with the supply hose severely twisted.  I unclipped the reservoir and turned it through 2-3 full turns to untwist the hose.  Now everything is perfect, thanks Chr1s for this little gem!  The rear reservoir is merely held on with a C shaped clip, with nothing to stop it rotating, I would suggest checking yours.

Did the rear brake bleed last night,cap back on the res,tighten it and all is good,go out for a test run this morning doesn’t feel right and then brake warning light comes on  :evil: and I’m thinking Jeeze….just about to phone my other half to bring the van!!! Have a look at rear res see I’d tightened the top too much and it had twisted in the metal clip twisted the rubber brake pipe  :o,twisted res the other way and all’s good….phew

2
K1200 / K1300 Forum / Re: Brake woes
« on: March 18, 2024, 12:23:18 pm »
If your stuck I'm not too far away in Plymoth with a GS911, just need a sunny day to ride up :-)

Thank you so much for the offer.  Did a good ride out yesterday, positively spring like in Mid Devon, and brakes felt great.  It felt like the small amount of air in the front had been there for a while as they felt sharper than I'm used to.  Rear is still a bit soft, but I'm putting that down to heavily worn pads, and will re-assess once the new pads are fitted.

3
K1200 / K1300 Forum / Re: Brake woes
« on: March 16, 2024, 08:41:53 pm »
Yes it does.  Never seen anything like that before, so good to know why it's there.

4
K1200 / K1300 Forum / Re: Brake woes
« on: March 16, 2024, 05:29:54 pm »
Hi all, thanks for your thoughts and help.  With your comments I came to the conclusion it should still be a simple mechanical issue.  Removed the rear calliper again, and could see the pistons moving out, but immediately back in when I released the lever.  Seems the pistons were moving very freely, maybe because the pads need replacing, and the piston needs to be quite a long way out.  Re fitted and then used a plastic trim tool to apply a little friction to the piston to stop it pulling back, and seems to be sorted.

Re looked at the front, which was sort of working, but too much travel.  Close inspection found the tiny bleed nipple on the master cylinder.  Decided to try and bleed this, which did reveal a small amount of air here.  I'd not let any in, but the front has not felt brilliant for a while. Front now feels much better.

I need to do a test ride tomorrow but I'm optimistic I've got it sorted.
Jason

5
K1200 / K1300 Forum / Brake woes
« on: March 15, 2024, 02:01:52 pm »
I ride my bike all year round, and through this winter it has got pretty grubby and my pads were starting to bind a little.  So took the callipers off, pumped the pistons out a bit to clean them (not too far), and then pushed them back all the way in.  They were actually moving pretty freely.  Cleaned up the pad backplates and the calliper body, as the corrosion was causing the pads to bind in this area.  Put it all back together.  Did this on both front and rear pads.  However, I cannot get the pads to pump out against the discs, seemingly having just endless travel on either front or rear levers.  I've started the bike, and moved it far enough so the ABS light and Brake failure message is no longer illuminated, but still nothing.  I'm guessing I have a problem with the ABS pump, but before I go too far in this direction does anyone else have any ideas.  I do not have a GS911, so can't run diagnostics via this.
Thanks
Jason

6
The screw is stainless steel.  You should be able to drill this will HSS drill bits, but it is important that you keep the temperature down, otherwide the screw will work harden.  SS also has the tendency to gall, which then causes the drill bits to grab which is probably why you are snapping the carbide bits.

To try an get it drilled out.  Centre punch the end of the screw, as close the the centre as you can.  Drill a pilot hole 2mm if you can, run the drill as fast as possible, but keep the bit lubricated as much as you can, based on the location, you are probably best with WD40 or similar.  If it starts smoking, it's getting to hot, stop and cool the drill tip.  It will probably take a while, especially at the start, as you've almost certainly hardened the end of the screw. Once you get into the softer core of the screw, it should cut better.  You can then go through with a bigger drill bit.

Good luck

7
Unfortunately not, you'll need a centre stand or some type of lift that allows you to unload the rear suspension.  I did mine on a "Big Blue" lift, which lifts off the footpegs, the wheel can then be lifted off the ground, then put a jack under it to remove the tension before unbolting the linkage.

8
Tyres / Re: Are Road 5 / 6 more prone to punctures?
« on: January 24, 2024, 11:26:40 am »
Well I must be very lucky, or unconsciously doing something right, but I've been riding since 2007, and only had 2 punctures in that time.  I reckon that works out to about one every 60k miles.  Both were Bridgstones, S20 on my Fireblade many years ago, and T31 on the K last summer.  Michelin has been my tyre of choice over the years, although I do shop around, and can end up on something else depending on the prices on offer.

9

It may well be. I'd not want the pegs any lower so my recommendation would be none. It all depends on how enthusiastically you ride. If you "make progress" then peg lowering may result in some issues. If your a "driving Miss Daisy" rider then there will be no issues. Obviously, riding with a pillion will likely reduce the amount of lean (unless your pillion is a make progress fan) but it will further reduce the peg to tarmac distance as the bike rides lower.

David, having seen some of your posted photos of the lean angles you achieve on your H2 SX SE, I'm not surprised you are dragging footpegs on the ground, probably along with knees, elbows, shoulders and ears  ;D.  I've not managed to ground mine yet, so I'm obviously of the "driving Miss Daisy" persuasion.

10
Haha, I actually quite enjoy the process. And its good knowing I'm future proofing the bike. It also makes cleaning it so much easier moving forward. The right products really help too. Im happy to share a list of what I use. if your going to make this much effort then its better to use protective coatings that last for months rather than weeks. Im not a fan of lathering the whole bike in acf-50, and will keep that for just the mechanical parts.

It would be really helpful to know what products you use and recommend, and also the tools you use.  I saw the small polisher in one of your photos, and that looks pretty useful for small areas found on a bike.

11
It is looking really good.  From someone who can only just summon the enthusiasm to rub mine over with a wet sponge every couple of months, I don't know how you have such determination.  Seeing it come together though must make it easier, and I'm starting to feel a little inspired. 

12
I've previously bought these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254278766909

They are 2mm shorter than the ones you have selected, and seem to fit on most of the locations I'm missing screws, and hopefully avoid the issue Phmode mentioned about close proximity to the wiring loom.  They are not a perfect match to the original BMW screws.  Where needed, these can go into the more hidden locations.

Jason

13
Other (K) Bikes or anything else! / Re: No Longer A "K" Rider
« on: January 05, 2024, 01:59:09 pm »
...unrelated accident...???

Why no oil?
Might that make it rattle?

Or dropped the oil so that prospective buyers can't start it and hear the rattle for themselves?

14
Other (K) Bikes or anything else! / Re: No Longer A "K" Rider
« on: January 05, 2024, 09:23:08 am »


The one on eBay that is, as of Wednesday evening, a mere £1507. Maybe it's just the chain tensioner. You never know your luck.

Centre stand, pannier rails, quick shifter, Ilmberger hugger, and light corrosion thrown in.

Stop putting things up for me to buy please.  Totnes is only just down the road, and it's done barely over a third the mileage of mine.  Definitely a risk though. 

15
Who's Who? / Re: New Member
« on: December 20, 2023, 04:50:26 pm »
Hello and Welcome.  I followed a similar route to (potential) K1300 ownership.  I bought mine in 2020 to upgrade from my VFR800.  I have not regretted the change.  The K1300S is a great, confidence inspiring machine.  It is a big, heavy machine, but if you can cope with that, it is otherwise nicely manageable.  The low speed balance is good and high speed stability exceptional.  It is a little slow to turn, but once settled it is nice and neutral.  Some find the front end feel a little remote, but I really like this, and particularly like the anti-dive under braking.  I've taken mine to the Pyrenes and NC500, plus regular weekend scratching, and even did a track day on it (It's a bit heavy for that in reality).  My only real issues have been relatively heavy tyre wear, and falling off it doing a U turn, where the slope in the road meant the ground wasn't where I expected it to be, and by the time I found the ground, the weight was too much to hold up.  Mine has close to 60K miles, and not pristine, but still looks good to me.  I do my own maintenance and repairs.  It is pretty easy to work on, and this site is a great resource.  If you go for the Motorsport version at Wigan Yamaha, it looks like a lovely bike.  Good luck.

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