Recent Posts

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I'll wait until Joost says yay or nay before making any more changes though.
He was a bit slow to reply last year, according to other potential NavButtons users on MRA, so don't be upset if he's a bit silent.
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K1200 / K1300 Forum / Re: Cam Cover Leak
« Last Post by Phmode on Yesterday at 06:12:42 pm »
Thanks, every day is a school day round here.
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I used a little black silicon sealant on the mating faces matey.

And yet another plug for Milliput ( or whatever it is called) black epoxy putty which I used to form the mounting on the bottom of the barbuttonbox to sit over the left switchgear mounting clamp and bolts which I covered with cling-film first so it set in the right shape but didn't stick to the bike.

Then I used a tie-wrap through a length of washer tubing moulded into the epoxy to hold it all in place. Pops off easily enough if I need to get the clamp bolts off (be the first time since fitting the HeliBars, but hey...).

I was a bit too keen to silence(?) the overly bright flashing led so fitted a switch to turn it off. Immediately after that Joost took our feedback on board and turned it off once it is connected  :winkthumbs:
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Ah bon! Well so far I've also gone down the cable tie route somewhat. But to add another point of attachment around a mirror vertical. Provided I can get my printer not to fill my hidden cable tie channels with support material. Good times!

Re waterproof yes, no real issues, but I've increased the height of the lip so far. I'll probably just silicone the edge before I out it together.

Only thing remaining is to determine where the power board will go. I'll wait until Joost says yay or nay before making any more changes though. With his pcb I'll have space. Without it I'll need to make space.

On taking mine apart I've also found the main body had started to deform slightly. I'm putting that down to PLA. I'm hoping the bought ones are PETG or better.

I was contemplating faffing with the source code but after seeing he only publishes v1 (I haven't done a github detective job yet mind) and we all are on v3 for the multi map ability... I've decided against that for now.
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BarButtons' aliiiive!

1. Change power supply to use permanent switched from the bike (I have the 12v to 5v board already)
2. Make a better solution for the pain in the bum captive-but-not nuts when mounting to the bars
3. Prevent rotation
4. Ensure waterproofness
5. Make the thing easier to assemble - mostly by reverting the LED to the front

Edit: How is everyone else getting on with it? Now I have it on the right map (thanks Rich) I use it a heck of a lot.

> 2. Make a better solution for the pain in the bum captive-but-not nuts when mounting to the bars and 3. Prevent rotation

I just put some ex-Grip Puppy foam underneath it and cable-tied it down (cable tie through the back mounting holes of the box). Yes it rocks very gently, but it doesn't rotate.

> 4. Ensure waterproofness

Mine seems to be waterproof enough (my USB is far more likely to get wet, and that's been OK so far - 1 year only), but then again I do try and minimise the amount of time I ride in the rain otherwise I dissolve like the baddie in Roger Rabbit.


(courtesy of screenmusings.org)
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BarButtons' aliiiive!

So after using this for almost a year I've decided to strip it down and rebuild. Mostly because my USB plug is getting rusty. Also because I built the box using PLA, and I've never been happy with my solder job of all the little wires.

Here's what it looked like


And a rubbish gap here, plus cracked retaining part (PLA K)


And on inspection, only a tiny bit of rusting on the washer that was beneath the nut. So not too bad.


Another thing that's been grinding my gears is that the thing would start to rotate on the bars. I want to resolve this too. In fact here's my list of objectives:

1. Change power supply to use permanent switched from the bike (I have the 12v to 5v board already)
2. Make a better solution for the pain in the bum captive-but-not nuts when mounting to the bars
3. Prevent rotation
4. Ensure waterproofness
5. Make the thing easier to assemble - mostly by reverting the LED to the front

To make all this easier I've reached out to Joost enquiring whether he will sell my the PCB separately. This would get rid of the rats nest and make things a lot easier. I'll then (either way) make the thing larger in some dimension so it can accept the voltage drop board. It shouldn't be too difficult to customise the mount for my bike/setup and prevent rotation. I might actually make a gasket for waterproofing at the top/base interface this time. Or just a better overlap plus drain.

Progress updates to come...

Edit: How is everyone else getting on with it? Now I have it on the right map (thanks Rich) I use it a heck of a lot.
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K1200 / K1300 Forum / Re: Cam Cover Leak
« Last Post by Capt Howdy on February 23, 2024, 09:53:54 pm »
The ‘jump guard thingy’ does affect the position of the slide rail because it locates in the little valley that the bottom of the slide rail locates in. This means that the slide rail sits on top of the ‘jump guard thingy’ raising it by about 3mm
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Who's Who? / Re: New member , just got a k1200 rs 1997 model.
« Last Post by Phmode on February 23, 2024, 09:37:21 pm »
Hi Inga and welcome to the madhouse that is EuroKClub!

Winter here too but probably not as much winter as Norway. One or two hardy souls out still, risking their pride and joy with all the salt on the roads although not as much salt this year as most.

Stay warm and enjoy the maintenance. Brian
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Who's Who? / Re: New member , just got a k1200 rs 1997 model.
« Last Post by Matt on February 23, 2024, 06:22:56 pm »
Welcome to the forum Inga! I look forward to photos! The older ones seemed to have more exciting colours :).
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Who's Who? / Re: New member , just got a k1200 rs 1997 model.
« Last Post by raesewell on February 23, 2024, 05:07:09 pm »
Welcome the the forum Inga, although our speciality is the later accross the frame slant K I'm sure you will get helpful suggestions when you need them. The early K's are affectionately known as the Flying Bricks.
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