Author Topic: Adjusting the clutch bite point  (Read 6575 times)

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Offline PS1000

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Adjusting the clutch bite point
« on: August 13, 2020, 02:19:06 pm »
Hi all.  This topic occasionally gets mentioned - but there does not seem to be a definitive thread about it - so I thought I would create one.  Hope this is OK - Feel free to move or even delete if it is already covered elsewhere.

For some background - I'm on my 3rd K...a lovely low mileage 2015 K1300S Motorsport edition.  (I previously had a 2005 K12S, then a 2009 K13S)

I bought the bike in December, had it delivered by van due to the poor weather, then Covid came along and severely impacted all our riding plans

Anyway it is only recently that I been able to use the bike much....and found myself getting increasingly frustrated at the clutch bite point being at the very very end of the lever travel...i.e. the lever is very far away from the handlebar, almost at its rest point, before the clutch bites and moves the bike forward.  This is probably (just) bearable if the bike is being used on normal open roads...but when in town or exploring wee nooks and crannies where there is a lot of slow speed manoeuvring it seriously impacts the ability to control the bike properly.  Both my K12 and previous K13S did not suffer from this and the clutch bite point was exactly where it should have been

There are various threads mentioning this topic on various sites with answers ranging from a straightforward "There is No Adjustment Possible at all" through to changing the entire master cylinder and / or lever / pivot mechanism to get a better bite action using aftermarket parts.  The disappointing common theme in all replies is that when Motorrad dealerships have been consulted - they seem completely unwilling to help - and just fob off customers saying there is no adjustment and nothing we can do.   This was certainly my experience at my local dealership..they are normally quite friendly and helpful, but just dismissed me as if I was stupid, even though I had gone to the trouble of removing the lever to show them that there was a threaded rod inside. 

Anyway I am delighted to say that The Threaded Rod is the answer to adjusting the clutch lever bite point.  Basically all you have to do is completely remove the clutch lever (8mm nut and pivot bolt).  You will then see a threaded road at the end of the lever which at one end has a roundish bullet shaped point and at the other there is a 2.5mm Allen key socket.  To move this rod in or out you must firstly slacken the small retaining bolt.  This is positioned at 90 degrees and also has a 2.5mm Allen socket.  This small bolt clearly had red Loctite on it so I used a heat gun to gently soften the Loctite before unscrewing the bolt.  Once the small retaining bolt is removed the threaded rod can be turned using a 2.5mm Allen key.   On my bike the rod was screwed 95% of the way in (i.e. there was almost no thread showing at the Allen key end).  I experimented with moving it half way by turning it anti clockwise...then using more anti clockwise turns, moving it almost fully out (i.e. maximum thread showing at the Allen key end).  This is my preferred setting so have reassembled, using Loctite on both the threaded rod, and the small retaining bolt to prevent them from moving.  Everything works perfectly and it has totally transformed my enjoyment of riding the bike again.  I am very glad that I decided to persevere despite BMW Motorrad telling me not to.
 
The only final comment I would make is to be wary if (for whatever reason) you wanted to push the clutch bite point out...i.e. by turning the threaded bolt in a clockwise direction from its original position to lengthen it.  I guess there is a potential danger that this could result in the clutch not being fully disengaged which could lead to slip and premature wear...but I don't see how this could be possible by doing what I did and shortening the rod.

Would love to know why BMW Motorrad wont discuss this adjustment.  Are there any friendly BMW techs on here that might have a view?

Anyway hope this post may help someone else to transform their riding experience from a pain to a pleasure

Ride safe everyone

Pete
 
(PS I do have pictures...but cant see any way to post them)

« Last Edit: August 17, 2020, 09:30:23 am by PS1000 »

Offline Matt

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2020, 02:40:46 pm »
Great stuff! Though being a millennial I skim read and then read your no picture excuse :P

@rich has done a nice thread in the How To section on photo uploading. Pretty standard. Get them up! :)
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Offline raesewell

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2020, 03:17:23 pm »
and what about my brilliant thread  >:(

Offline corkboy

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2020, 03:50:44 pm »
I'd guess, part number 13
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0597-USA-01-2008-K44-BMW-K_1200_GT_0587,0597_&diagId=32_0929

Well spotted,
Now i have one more thing to wonder/worry about when I'm riding, Am I happy with the bite point  :o

Offline Costas

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2020, 04:23:36 pm »
Am confused , your bike doesn't have the adjustable pins on each lever ? Why you were forced to go looking at the inside pin, which correctly was factory settled and secured ?
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Offline chriscanning

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2020, 04:24:09 pm »
Not sure if to laugh or cry after reading PS’s great post so i’ll Digress.

Cutting a very long story short....I had 3 years of moving the press bikes for MCN I could write a book..but it took me into Vines on a regular basis, so when I was complaining about my K Sport before I even mentioned any particular problem with much hilarity I got ‘Hows the clutch’..

Couple of weeks later while on a run down there took my K with me and left it there, now I was always under the impression they put a 1300 clutch in, but what ever it was good when I got it home, the bite was half way out on the lever, it lasted 6 weeks and back to right at the end of the travel, back down again and this time when I collected it was ‘It’ll stay right this time’ with my sarcastic reply ‘Yea right ‘ and that must be 10 years ago and it’s still good.

What did they actually do....honest answer don’t know maybe what PS has said, what ever it can be sorted.

Offline PS1000

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2020, 10:08:24 am »
Am confused , your bike doesn't have the adjustable pins on each lever ? Why you were forced to go looking at the inside pin, which correctly was factory settled and secured ?

Hi Costas...The standard levers only have a knurled plastic knob which in truth does not really make much difference whatever way you set it.  I note from your profile that you have Wunderlich levers..so they will no doubt offer a lot more adjustment and probably have a wheel with adjustable pins as you suggest in your post

Offline PS1000

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2020, 10:17:48 am »
I'd guess, part number 13
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0597-USA-01-2008-K44-BMW-K_1200_GT_0587,0597_&diagId=32_0929

Well spotted,
Now i have one more thing to wonder/worry about when I'm riding, Am I happy with the bite point  :o

It is similar to part No.13, although the fitting is different.  Interestingly the parts diagram for the K1300S (Model 40) does not show the threaded rod at all- how strange ?

Offline PS1000

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2020, 10:38:20 am »
Great stuff! Though being a millennial I skim read and then read your no picture excuse :P

@rich has done a nice thread in the How To section on photo uploading. Pretty standard. Get them up! :)

Have stuck it on a YT channel...see if this link works...

https://youtu.be/KG88gvlljJ4

Offline Costas

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #9 on: August 15, 2020, 08:31:48 am »
According to service manual, the technical one which you do not have, messing with the inside pin effects the bolt action on the clutch pump pin and it is not recommended. In fact for authorised technician the word used is:  do not touch. 
If the threads pin does not allow you to adjust the lever then the issue is with the lone or the pump itself. The false and very possibly short lasting impression given after the inside pin new setting alteration might not be the ideal recommended solution.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2020, 10:24:22 am by richtea »
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Offline paulotex

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #10 on: August 15, 2020, 07:22:54 pm »
Thank you for the thread and for describing this so well. I got my k1300r with after market levers. After dropping the bike, one of the levers got bent, and I got new ones. When I was assembling them I found this adjustment pin and, like you, I was blown away by how it changed the behavior of the clutch. I am really happy to have discovered it!

In addition, I also had issues with the biting point changing with engine temperature. I ended up changing the clutch to a Barnett, and now all is good.

Offline PS1000

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #11 on: August 16, 2020, 06:52:21 pm »
According to service manual, the technical one which you do not have, messing with the inside pin effects the bolt action on the clutch pump pin and it is not recommended. In fact for authorised technician the word used is:  do not touch. 
If the threads pin does not allow you to adjust the lever then the issue is with the lone or the pump itself. The false and very possibly short lasting impression given after the inside pin new setting alteration might not be the ideal recommended solution.

Hi Costas..many thanks for the update...I'd love to get to the bottom of this and get a proper engineering description of the end to end clutch mechanism on the K1300S and why the official BMW manual says dont touch the adjustment rod on the clutch lever.

In my simple mind, pulling in the clutch lever pushes a piston in the clutch master cylinder which pressurises hydraulic fluid causing the clutch slave cylinder to carry out an action....the action being to push in the clutch rod to separate the clutch plates within the clutch basket.

Altering the position of the threaded rod within the clutch lever surely only means that the clutch lever starts to push the clutch master cylinder piston when the clutch lever is in a slightly different position..i.e the lever does not start to touch the piston until it is closer to the handlebar...I cant see how this simple adjustment would have any effect on any other downstream aspects of the clutch operation.

Please be assured that I'm not doubting you or what the manual says...Its just that I cant understand why it should have any negative impact..so I'd really appreciate it if you (or any other knowledgeable forum member) were able to provide a clear engineering explanation as to why it says dont touch it.

Any inputs most welcome on this as I'd really like to get a better understanding (for all our benefits)








Offline Matt

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #12 on: August 16, 2020, 07:13:05 pm »
I look forward to Costas knowledge sessions too!  :)
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Offline Phmode

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2020, 11:09:27 am »
Don't forget that the dealer's manual is used for a whole different purpose to a Haynes or a Clymer or even the RepROM.

The dealer manual is to ensure that the work the techs do will never invalidate a warranty or cause a claim to come back on the company.

The warning to not do something may have nothing to do with the operation of e.g. the clutch mechanism but is more to do with, perhaps, not getting the owner into a position where the normal adjustment cannot be made or when made results in improper clutch action.

Offline Costas

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Re: Adjusting the clutch bite point
« Reply #14 on: October 09, 2020, 10:55:36 am »
Am referring to the dealers technicians manual, an internal document.
The bitting point is calculated for each and every single clutch lever pump, and varies for each model ( a note to mark and the reason for not being interchangeable among bike models ). Messing with it changes the flow of mineral fluid, alowing more or less fluid to pass thru the pumb and thus influences the clutch main, this will effect the function of disc plates and so on. 
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