I am using Raximo:

https://mtp-racing.de/RAXIMO-BCF-Bremshebel-Kupplungshebel-Set-lang-mit-ABE_15

The length can be adjusted and it folds up, so that there is less chance of bending.

They come with ABE (German certification to proof that the brake lever is road-worthy).

Happy so far.

I recently had an issue where the bike wouldn't start from cold. I could hear the relay clicking, but that was all. In the end, I turned the engine a bit (I put it in 6th gear and turn the rear wheel), and... the bike started with no issue and has been working ever since. So it might be worth trying. Simply turn the engine a bit.

I don't know what happened in my case, and if it will happen again. The ECU has no fault codes.

Reviving this thread with an update:

One year and 10k miles later, I replaced the original clutch with the Barnett. The symptoms that made me do it were:

* The clutch biting point was moving with the engine temperature. Cold engine the biting point was later (lever closer to the grip), with warm engine the biting point was sooner (lever further from the grip). This was occurring since last year.

* I rode the bike to Portugal last week, and the clutch was slipping under heavy acceleration (eg, a good twist of the wrist at 6k RPM).

* The rattling sound while warm at idle was back.

I replaced the old clutch plates and disks with the Barnett. I left out the conical ring and the thin steel ring (video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv5Gxkw4Atk). I also adjusted (again) the oil pump chain tension.

First tests (2nd and 3rd gear from 4 to 8k RPM) feel ok. I need to find a good stretch of motorway where I can try that RPMs in 6th gear. Also, it seems the biting point is now stable and no rattling sound.

I fitted the LED bulbs recommended on the top post by daveg208 on my K13R. No issues , they fit well. I followed his advice and removed the housing to fit the bulbs, much easier this way.

I was a bit surprised that the light pattern was not correctly aligned. The dipped beam points too low. Did some adjustment yesterday, but did not have a 13mm wrench with me, and in the cold I just could not turn the plastic screw with my fingers. Second adjustment to be done this evening. The light intensity seems much better than the original, but will report again once everything is adjusted.

Can't report on the high beam yet, since I've only done my commuting  miles yesterday, always with traffic.

Thanks to daveg208 for the original report, I am glad to have the extra light.

I am very interested in trying this on my K13R. Does anyone know if the headlight housing is the same as the K12R. I just had a look, and it seems the space between the bottom of the bulb and the cover is very tight.

Thanks!

Is the fan and fan mounting with it ?

Regards   mick

Sorry Mick, this is really just the radiator and cap (top right side). Not even the thermostat is included.

It is widely accepted that at anything bigger than a walking speed drop, even R&G bungs can cause frame damage. Engine bars are even worse in a road-speed tarmac event.

Unfortunately I got hit sideways (left, on the coolant pump) yesterday evening. The bike went down on its right side. I have the sw-motech engine guards. They look impressive. But the right bar bent and is pressuring the engine cover. I see some engine oil drops, and I think the cover is cracked. And the clutch master cylinder cover is scratched. This was at slow speed, overtaking a stopped bus at a congestion in town. So I agree with Phmode: engine bars don't seem to be a good protection, they might even make it worse -- specially at the price they go for.

I won't even try to straighten them. I will remove them and get the R&G master cylinder cover.

I am not sure about "upgrading" the OEM bungs to R&G. If I had the R&G, I think it would have been worse for me. The car front bumper would have struck them and probably push me further to the right side. With the OEM one, it just grazed the left one lightly.

Pads appear to be the same in dimensions but they are different in composition and grams.
Those for an S are heavier and there is no problem using them for an R. Only OEM separates them.

Strangely, this is not what I found out :-(. The new pads I got (34118534183) are a bit taller, so that the top hole for the fixating pin does not align properly on my R. I am trying to return them to the ebay seller I got them from.

In the next two pictures, my old pad is on top of the new pad. If the holes are aligned (top picture, on the left), then the bottom of the new pad is longer.


If the bottom of the pads are aligned (right of the picture), then the holes don't align.


Unless anyone is interested? I got the pair for £55 inside the original BMW plastic bag. They are part number 34118534183, which I believe to be the front pads for the K1300S. Just let me know if you are interested.