Author Topic: Helibars - K12S vs K13S  (Read 5640 times)

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Offline Phmode

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Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« on: January 10, 2016, 11:28:50 am »
So, here's the thing. I know we have had various 'chats' about Helibars and the fitting thereof. There was also some info about whether K12S helibars can be fitted to a K13S; and now I can't find the answer.

I know the switchgear needs a new hole drilling and tapping for the locating screw as the switchgear is a different width, but apart from that little shmooze, is there anything else that would prevent me fitting my Helibars to a K13S if I ever find one to buy?

Brian (who is offering many plaudits for all technically correct answers  :o )

Offline TomL

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2016, 05:30:49 pm »
As I have grown older, I've learned that pleasing everybody is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.

Offline Phmode

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2016, 06:50:52 pm »
I applaud you young sir; I obviously didn't look hard enough.

So, did you ever do anything about the bars?

Brian (who is still looking)

Offline TomL

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2016, 10:03:07 pm »
No I didn't. I got used to the standard position.
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Offline Phmode

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2016, 12:30:37 pm »
I have just finished installing the Helibars off my K1200S onto my K1300S.



It was fairly straightforward but as you will see, not something I would advise you to do!

The right hand bar on the 12 has no location holes for the switchgear in it because the switch / twistgrip assembly is held in place with a clamp.

However, on the 13 it is held by a screw going right through a clearance hole in the bar and screwing into a tapped hole in the bottom of the twistgrip / switchgear housing. It is the Torx screw shown in the centre of this image....




This a shot of the Helibar loosely in place, showing the radial orientation of the new hole and the distance from the 'boss'...



The hole needs to be 3.5 mm dia but depending on how good you are at drilling vertically in the middle of a round bar, you may need to make it 4mm  :o  I got away with 3.5, just!

The radial position of this hole is not too critical as it only affects the rotational position of the Start/Stop and Heated Grips switch, not something that is too important.

The left bar, by comparison, is more tricky. The 12 Helibar already has a hole drilled right through the bar into the opposite sides of which screw two self-tappers, just under the inner edge of the rubber grip.

The 13 bar however, has a clearance hole drilled right through the bar through which goes a screw that locates into a semi-captive nut in the grip / switch assembly. Needless to say, the clearance hole for the 13 bar is in a different position radially than the 12 bar, and also a slightly different position longitudinally.

This shot shows the head of the screw that needs to be removed from the standard left bar to remove the grip / switch assembly from the bar....




And this shot shows the position of the new clearance hole (on the left) that is needed for the 13 bar, compared with the original hole for the 12 bar.



Note how close together these holes are and also that they intersect each other in the middle of the bar. This is NOT ideal as it will weaken the solid alloy bar at this point, and this is why I cannot advise others to do this transplant! In my case, I am fairly sure that in nirmal use, the bar will be fine. However, being a dork, I stand astride my bike and push it off the centre stand with a combination of crutch and hands; this force on the bars may prove to be my Helibars downfall, and mine I guess  :o

I intend to remove the left bar and drill out the original hole, fill it with a piece of aluminium rod araldited tightly in place, re-drill the new hole and re-fit everything!

Brian (who thinks if you don't hear much from him in the future, you will know the reason  8) )

NB Having helped Lachlan to fit K12S Helibars to his K13S, this article has a minor flaw in it. One of the piccies shows the longitudinal (and radial) position of the hole that needs to be drilled in the right hand bar. Whilst the position of the hole was correct for my bars, Lachlan ended up with a large gap between the outer end of his right grip and the inner end of his bar end weight.

So, before dismantling everything I recommend that you measure the distance from the inner end of your bar end weight to the outer end of your right hand switchgear and modify the position of your new hole accordingly.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2018, 09:55:05 pm by Phmode »

Offline Costas

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2016, 12:45:39 pm »
Good job , it's is as you say a difficult task not recomemndd to the less skilfully person. In my case when wanted to install the IDE bars ( bought fm pirateslair, jerry the pirate etc) , after seeing  the varius holes already in bars went to my mechanic and he did the installation free of charge, a bottle of wine does not count.
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Offline Dusty

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2016, 01:22:31 pm »
That looks like a mod I would do if I ever had a K1300S, Brian. How do the ergonomics compare with the use of the top yoke (control bridge if you must!) from a K12/1300R?

Offline Costas

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2016, 01:45:33 pm »
Let me answer that one first if you don't mind,
The ergonomics have been improved TREMENDOUSLY  , more info : bars are easier accessed without stretching arms, positioning them slightly upwards and shoulders are in perfect position, both legs at the correct place on tank sides: result better control of bike.
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Offline Phmode

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2016, 02:05:30 pm »
That looks like a mod I would do if I ever had a K1300S, Brian. How do the ergonomics compare with the use of the top yoke (control bridge if you must!) from a K12/1300R?

From the photos I have seen, the difference is immense! I haven't ridden an S with the R yoke but it seems waaaaaaay too high for my liking.

The Helibars add about 1.25" to the height and pull the bars back by about 0.75".

The amount of rotational play is limited by a groove cut through the bottom of the bar through which passes the inner-most clamp bolt on the yoke. This allows the bars to be moved back and forth by about an inch at the bar and this could be increased by cutting the groove into more of a circular groove around the bar, like the original; however, all is not as it seems!

The limiting factor with the K12/13 is the brake master cylinder and to a very slightly lesser extent, the clutch master cylinder. With the original bars, the cylinders curve around the front of the yoke, quite snugly. With the Helibars installed, the cylinders make contact with the yoke; the further back you try to pull the Helibar, the higher you end up with your levers as the yoke forces the cylinder upward taking the lever with it. Moving the levers down to a more original (and comfortable for me) position, causes the Helibars to rotate forward away from you.


The end result can be seen here....




And the comparison between the standard bar (at left) and the Helibar is shown here....



Brian (who loves the new position but hates the two hole thingy in his left bar  :( )
« Last Edit: February 13, 2016, 02:28:17 pm by Phmode »

Offline Costas

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2016, 05:05:01 pm »
There is no issue with the IDE bars since the container position was taken in acount when they manufacture them, same with the holes they are prefabricated  three of them in diferent positions as to accommodate riders driving style, and swiches position in bars.
Wouldn't worry with the small holes Brian, the amount of force during riding is no way sufficient for a crack or a dent and if you worry for the case (away fm us all) of a fall this would be the least of your problems.
The're two versions  raising bars currently in market ,  the higher one requires extensions for brake and clutch cables. 
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Offline TomL

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2016, 05:43:34 pm »
I wouldn't worry about weakening the left bar. Instead of pushing the bars you can push and pull on the right bar.

While you are remembering about pulling and pushing the right bar try not to be distracted by the silver yoke or the wide view mirror.  ???
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Offline Dusty

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2016, 07:05:19 pm »
Thank you; I had assumed, obviously wrongly, that Helibars on an S yoke would be higher than the R.
Your bike is taking shape nicely, Brian. Lovely!

Offline Phmode

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2016, 07:07:05 pm »
Wide view mirrors went the way of all flesh the day I boughtit!

It isn't the pulling and pushing, it is shoving it off the centre stand that worries me, that puts an AWFUL lot of force on the bars which is why good riders don't do it  8)

Offline chriscanning

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2016, 07:33:00 pm »
Why the foam grips?

Offline Costas

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Re: Helibars - K12S vs K13S
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2016, 08:43:13 pm »
To avoid paying the 250 € required every year for new grips .
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