Author Topic: K1300GT Clutch drag  (Read 664 times)

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Offline rich8000

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K1300GT Clutch drag
« on: May 06, 2024, 08:31:41 pm »
Hi all, after some ideas. Just replaced the friction plates on my 28000-mile 2010 GT clutch with EBC rings, I now have clutch drag (not just a clunk but have to hold the bike on the brakes once in 1st).
The run-up to this was getting clutch slip last week on a work trip, nursed it home ok. No problems before this other than the normal K cluck. no undue noises etc prior.
Currently, I'm awaiting delivery of clutch fluid and the cap removal tool to flush and bleed it on the off chance there is air in the system.
The clutch basket and cartridge appeared to be in good nick. All of the friction plates had worn with several down to next to nothing (so due replacement), but no odd or uneven wear.
1/ Has anyone had any experience with the EBC friction ring set? I didn't check stac height as the originals were well worn.
Any other suggestions welcome 8)
Rich

Offline Swindon Andy

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2024, 11:20:21 pm »
My K hasn't had any clutch parts and it's done 35,000 miles. At what mileage do most clutch problems arrive? 28,000 seems a bit soon to me? Maybe there's an underlying fault?

Offline rich8000

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2024, 06:30:42 am »
I suspect cheaper semi-syn 10-40w oil may have been used by the independent I bought it off, that won't have helped, I did by chance meet a previous owner and it has done a lot of those miles 2 up fully loaded and the wear was nice and even. No judder or nasty noise so I am happy to think it's fair wear and tear with the old plates.
 Oil is being changed anyway, I believe these bikes are fussy re having 5-40w as opposed to 10-40w as well.
It still had the original blanking grub screw in the slave cylinder bleed point so may well have never had a clutch fluid change or bleed. I know this is not on the BMW service schedule supposedly good for life but, after 14 years it won't hurt to change it, reading on some of the forums it makes a difference.

Offline flatfour

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2024, 07:51:25 pm »
My K1300GT has reached almost 54,000 miles with only a replacement master cylinder for the clutch, that due to leakage at the reservoir.

Offline rich8000

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2024, 06:09:23 am »
 :thumbsupgood:

Offline stevel

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2024, 11:46:58 am »
Clutch drag is a common issue on K1300's. The issue is caused by the material the clutch basket is made of - it's a bit soft, so the dogs on the friction plates wear the clutch basket and create a notch which then prevents the clutch plates separating properly when the lever is pulled. I would imagine in your situation (having replaced the worn clutch plates with new ones which will be thicker) the engagement dogs are now sitting a bit further up in the basket, so they are now at the limit of where the old clutch plates have worn the notch in the basket, leaving little/no room for them to separate.

 The best answer is the most expensive - replace both clutch plates and the basket at the same time (I think BMW won't sell the clutch plates on their own anymore, last I remember). It is possible (ie I've done it) to take the basket off and dress the notches with a fine file, being very careful to seal up the bearings first and to wash the filings off thoroughly - don't really want those going around the engine. Using the correct oil (5W-40) will help over 10W-40, but it'll only help, rather than cure the problem.

The working fluid in the clutch lever shouldn't make any difference as it's not hygroscopic, but if you can find a little bottle of it cheap then by all means give it a try - made no difference to mine.

Offline alaskier

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2024, 08:20:03 pm »
To let you know the clutch in my old  2011 K1300GT gave no trouble whatsoever until it started slipping at around 110,000 miles when I replaced it in full (new basket and plates).  It did many Continental miles two up with luggage but even so had a fairly easy life with me. Even so only 28,000 miles suggests excessive use of the whip to put it in equine parlance!

Offline rich8000

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Re: K1300GT Clutch drag
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2024, 06:20:51 am »
Clutch drag is a common issue on K1300's. The issue is caused by the material the clutch basket is made of - it's a bit soft, so the dogs on the friction plates wear the clutch basket and create a notch which then prevents the clutch plates separating properly when the lever is pulled. I would imagine in your situation (having replaced the worn clutch plates with new ones which will be thicker) the engagement dogs are now sitting a bit further up in the basket, so they are now at the limit of where the old clutch plates have worn the notch in the basket, leaving little/no room for them to separate.

 The best answer is the most expensive - replace both clutch plates and the basket at the same time (I think BMW won't sell the clutch plates on their own anymore, last I remember). It is possible (ie I've done it) to take the basket off and dress the notches with a fine file, being very careful to seal up the bearings first and to wash the filings off thoroughly - don't really want those going around the engine. Using the correct oil (5W-40) will help over 10W-40, but it'll only help, rather than cure the problem.

The working fluid in the clutch lever shouldn't make any difference as it's not hygroscopic, but if you can find a little bottle of it cheap then by all means give it a try - made no difference to mine.
Totally agree with you on all of that, the 5W-40W will only make a difference during the very initial cold phase before the engine is at normal operating temperature. After a lot of measuring and trial fitting and fettling of the clutch basket it is now working. One of the main issues to my mind is that the EBC friction rings are out of spec. Measured as a complete stack with the original drive rings they were fractionally under 2mm high. This was after soaking in oil before installation, measured individually it was 1mm high. I rectified this by reusing 3 of the least worn original plates. At this point on re-assembly I still had some drag though not as bad as before. I found the gap between 2 of the drive tangs was about 2 thou less than on the originals on all the new plates in the same location in relation to the smaller tab, and having fettled that I appear to have a working clutch.
I'm not going to name the well-known specialist that supplied them as I've not spoken to them yet, and they didn't actually make the friction rings and have to rely on what the manufacturer claims but, they are so far out of spec I'm wondering if it's even the right kit. I will update you when I have a reply. As for EBC if this is the right kit then I can only say don't touch with a bargepole, I am surprised as I do use their brake pads and they are good.
And thankyou to all the replies :thumbsupgood: