Fuel flap lock seized.

[TomL]

Has anyone managed to remove the fuel cap lock barrel as per the reprom?

Ron had a situation where his fuel cap was stuck in the locked position. I managed to take the whole fuel cap assembly off the tank and strip down the cap to remove the barrel which had all the brass levers seized into the aluminium barrel. A very fiddly job with lots of springs and pins and bits but got it sorted out eventually.

According to the reprom one has to push down the latch until the holes (2) are alligned and then insert a 2mm drill bit (3). Then the key can be rotated and removed with the lock barrel. I tried to do this on my bike but the holes (2) would not align and even if I held down the latch the barrel would not come out. I would like to remove my lock to check it out but to no avail. If this had worked it would be dead easy to check the locking action was free and well luubricated. You don't want to have to go through the performance required to take the lock apart as I did with Ron's bike.

[Phmode]

Am I just confused Tom? It sounds as though you managed to strip Ron's lock but not your own, is that right? I'll have a fiddle with mine on Monday and let you know.

[TomL]

I did manage to sort out Ron's lock by taking the complete flap assemply off and taking it apart. Loads of springs and sliding bits and screws. All I wanted to do was to remove the lock barrel which was totally seized up.

I noticed afterwards in the Reprom that it is very easy to remove the lock barrel by opening the fuel flap, pushing back the latch and insert drill bit, and then remove key complete with lock barrel.

Out of interest I thought that I would pop my fuel lock barrel out and take a look at it. Easy peasy one would think. But it wouldn't work as per the instructions in the Reprom.

There was no way that I was going to submit my lock to the tasks involved in getting Ron's lock sorted. After all my lock is working and if the barrel will not pop out as per the Reprom then I will lube it with some oil on the key.

The pop out method looks like a two minute job whereas I must have spent three hours sorting out Ron's lock. A stitch in time saves nine and all that.

[raesewell]

I hope Ron appreciates all these things you do for him Tom, a huge mug of coffee and a big slice of cake should be in order

[TomL]

Don't tell Ron but I like to practise on his bike 

[raesewell]

Don't tell Ron but I like to practise on his bike 

Good thinking 

[Phmode]

Well, in the sub-zero ice-house that is my garage, I spent three minutes fitting my new battery and five minutes trying to remove my fuel filler cap lock. Seven minutes was way too much out there and I gave up.

The results are that the battery is charging and like you, I could not push the latch back sufficiently far to even see the hole in it through the cut-out, let alone get a drill bit in there.

I tried it with the key in and out and with the lock in the locked and in the unlocked positions to no avail.

As far as the barrell innards are concerned I will have to consult my local lock-smith about lube. I was always taught never to 'oil' lock mechanisms as grit and muck gets stuck to the oil and can then jam the tumblers/sliders. Graphite 'dust' is what I have always used on Yale type locks but that will do no good on a fuel cap lock.

Hope I never have to change my ignition barrell then as I will end up with two keys instead of one 

[Expo]

I've always squirted a drop of WD40 into my lock and ignition   barrels after cleaning the bikes I've had over the years. Going on the theory that it's a moisture repellent and a lubricant.

[TomL]

Problem is the dissimilar metal corrosion caused by brass levers set into an aluminium barrel with steel springs and an influx of rain water.

Ron's lock got a good dose of silicon spray on re-assembly.

[Phmode]

The problem with WD is that it evaporates and doesn't leave a lube behind. Silicone spray leaves the silicone after its vapours have gone.

[TomL]

GT85 with PTFE should do the trick. Look out for the special offers in Aldi.

[Sutty]

Hello guys, had a ride up to the ponderosa this morning, stopped to fill up at the Kiddi end of the Bridgenorth road and guess what? The key wouldn't go into the fuel cap, I struggled to open the cap but got there after a bit, when I got home I filled the lock with 3 in 1 oil and now it's perfect.
Hope this helps .

Best regards.  Mick

[Costas]

Now that some of you are traveling maybe the barrel issue sounds not so important, but practicing today at the garage on another bike(?) my mechanic inserted what appears to be an old long screw driver with the tip trimmed almost completely and removed it in a bit. It looks like it only needs a strong hand with a tool that permits a good grip.