Help needed replacing rear disc pads

[alaskier]

I wonder if there is anyone out there who can help me.

I am trying to replace the rear disc pads on my K1300GT but cannot get the retaining pin to budge. The existing pads have done about 30,000 miles in all weathers so the retaining pin is probably rusted in.

So far I have pushed the pistons back, removed the spring retainer and am using an old drill bit as a drift to knock the retaining pin out. I am hammering the drift from the silencer side of the bike so that it comes out on the calliper side.

I have tried soaking a rag in boiling water then putting it over the casing to try to expand the metal but to no avail.

I have just squirted WD40 over the pin whilst shielding the disc. It has not worked so far so I shall leave it for a few hours then try again along with the boiling water trick.

Does anyone have any bright ideas? Has this happened to anyone else and if so how did they solve the problem?

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.


Cheers all,
Tony

[Costas]

Have you removed the safety pin?

[Timbox]

Think you may be trying to remove the pin the wrong way but Im not 100%. My memory has me using a pin drift from the left side of bike into the wheel if you like.

Just checked and think Im right, pin is drifted from outside to inside to remove.(After removing clip, as Costas sai

[raesewell]

Take a look in the How To section. First ever post I think
http://www.eurokclub.bike/index.php/topic,26.0.html

[TomK1300s]

I was told to open the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back by one of the dealer mechanics, because forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage it, and they had some fail after doing that, anyone else know if this is true.

[Phmode]

I was told to open the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back by one of the dealer mechanics, because forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage it, and they had some fail after doing that, anyone else know if this is true.

Never done that on mine, never had a problem and never heard of failures; but then, I know nothing 

[TomK1300s]

Just a liitle note
I have changed the pads four times or more on the 1300s, front and rear and the lever always felt a little soft afterwards, so this last time I ran the bleed brakes program in the diagnostic tool, this bleeds the pump unit and the lever is now like new no soft feel to it at all, I can only think that small amounts of little air bubbles accumulate in the ABS pump and this clears them out.

[Phmode]

Nice tip Tom! Is that a function in the GS911 (wot I still can't use)?

[Timbox]

I was told to open the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back by one of the dealer mechanics, because forcing the fluid back through the ABS unit can damage it, and they had some fail after doing that, anyone else know if this is true.

Its actually best practice to do that on any ABS equipped vehicle, car or bike, whether everybody does is another matter.

[Timbox]

Just a liitle note
I have changed the pads four times or more on the 1300s, front and rear and the lever always felt a little soft afterwards, so this last time I ran the bleed brakes program in the diagnostic tool, this bleeds the pump unit and the lever is now like new no soft feel to it at all, I can only think that small amounts of little air bubbles accumulate in the ABS pump and this clears them out.

And the cheats way is to change the fluid then take the bike for a spin on a gravelly road and get the ABS to activate

[TomK1300s]

Yes Brian it is a function on the 911, that might get some of the air out Timbox better than nothing me thinks, and this is one of the reasons I dont push the pistons back without the nipples open, I don't know if this is what the dealer mech was on about.

JDA1192         
PT 12-0001
Preventing ABS Problems after Caliper or Pad Change
All vehicles equipped with ABS systems.
ABS failure or malfunction soon after replacing caliper or pads.
Debris and other contamination collects in the caliper. When removing the
caliper, if the caliper piston is forced back into the bore without opening the
bleeder, contaminates in the fluid will be forced back into the ABS hydraulic
unit and/or master cylinder causing valves/pistons to stick.
Never force brake fluid backwards in the system. Before pushing the piston
back, always clamp off the caliper hose using a suitable hose pincher tool,
and open the bleeder. Attach a hose to the bleeder and place the other end
in a container. Now slowly force the piston back. Contaminated fluid will be
discharged through the bleeder. When replacing any brake component, the
entire brake system must be flushed. Follow OE bleeding procedures and
use the recommended brake fluid. Always use fresh fluid from a sealed
container.
Caution: Never open a bleeder valve or loosen a hydraulic line while ABS
is pressurized

[Costas]

It cannot be described in a better way.
Might need to take this part to technical section maybe this and all other prosedures described so clearly by the GS911 manual one by one could gradually posted in that section too, thus creating a good repair prosedures database.

[Phmode]

....if only I could actually get into mine 

[alaskier]

Hello all,

Thanks for all your help. Turns out Tim was right and I was drifting it out the wrong way. New pads are now in and I will take it for a spin tomorrow to make sure everything is alright. Let's hope the ABS failure light doesn't come on!

I must say the front pads are much easier. Even with the pistons forced all the way in there was hardly any wriggle room to get the new pads in. Good tip about opening the bleed nipple, it might have made the job easier.


Cheers all,
Tony

[Timbox]

Hello all,

Thanks for all your help. Turns out Tim was right and I was drifting it out the wrong way. New pads are now in and I will take it for a spin tomorrow to make sure everything is alright. Let's hope the ABS failure light doesn't come on!

I must say the front pads are much easier. Even with the pistons forced all the way in there was hardly any wriggle room to get the new pads in. Good tip about opening the bleed nipple, it might have made the job easier.


Cheers all,
Tony

Hope you got the right pads then, 1 should be thinner than the other, also did you check the sliding pins? They seize with alarming regularity