Morning all,
For a bit of a winter project (amongst others) and after spotting that the price of the HP dash has come down quite a lot since I last looked - I decided to purchase one and DIY retrofit it myself - so in case anyone else is tempted here's the guide.
For ref I fitted this to a 2013 30th Anniversary model, aside from the differences in the ABS etc - the guide will be much the same steps to retrofit, the coding / programming will look differently but ISTA/P should work it out for itself for just about any year of K1300 (I think probably also a K12 but can't confirm).
So this is what we're upto:
Parts you will need:HP Instrument cluster: 62117719732 - £990.00
https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/search_results.php?keywords=62117719732Mounting Parts Hp Instrument Cluster: 71607715840 - £61.61
https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/search_results.php?keywords=71607715840Wiring Harness For Instrument Cluster 71607723833 - £72.60
https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/search_results.php?keywords=71607723833Set Auxiliary Switch Set Menu: 71607721855 - £110.00 (I got mine off eBay for £42.55)
https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/search_results.php?keywords=71607721855ISA Screw x 2: 32727705874 (may come with your "Switch Set Menu") - £1.98 EA
https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/search_results.php?keywords=32727705874If you purchase from the above site (It's Rybrook Ltd really) you may receive a 10% discount for spends over £1000 (this is unfortunately...) if you don't get a discount code offered - try asking for one!
Tools you will need:Torx bits (prefer T handles)
Side Cutters (for zip ties)
Battery Charger (need to maintain voltage above 13v for duration of coding which takes about 15-20 mins)
BMW ICOM A2 or NEXT (I bought a clone next - without HDD or WiFi) - £160~ ish......
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WIFI-ICOM-NEXT-ICOM-A2-A3-FOR-BMW-NEXT-for-BMW-ICOM-A2-B-C-3/32922166924.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3cbf4c4d4WfJGrBMW ICOM D cable (to plug into bikes 10 pin round OBD connector) - £10~ ish.....
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-BMW-ICOM-D-Cable-for-bmw-Motorcycles-Cable-Motobikes-Diagnostic-Cable/32773984658.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3cbf4c4d4WfJGrDon't be tempted to buy one of the cheap ICOM D cables off Amazon or eBay - they're nearly all wired up completely wrong, I did, and had to chop the end off, work out the wiring and crimp terminal pins on so I could push them into the bikes OBD connector one by one.....
Don't bother with a K+DCAN cable off Amazon either, I bought two - they both turned out to be cheap cr4p and never once talked to the bike. You may get them to work, but the prevailing opinion is don't even think of trying to program (ie flash) the modules in the bike with one of these - here be dragons!!!
Armed with the ICOM A2 or NEXT, you'll basically be able to do anything the dealer can do to any BMW model ever made.......
Here's mine all working - note the chopped up cheapo ICOM D cable - essentially the maker has wired it up with the pin assignments done the mirror of what they should be, and why I cut the end off and crimped connectors on to push into the OBD connector (round thing clipped under seat at rear):
If you do the same as me - be very careful, two of the pins are 12v and ground - don't want to short them out onto the K line pin......(you'll need a new ZFE / DME probably)
Software you'll need:BMW ISTA/P (Our K13's are an older proto compared to the new GS's R1250s etc) so you'll want this as opposed to ISTA/+ (aka D as was) - try and get version 3.66.
BMW ISTA/+ (D) - will do diagnosis for faults etc on our bikes, it will diagnosoe and flash F,G,I series cars and newer bikes - but for our purposes not really needed (handy for faults tho like I said). Try and get version 4.15.23.
Given that this is BMW software, your options to purchase are limited and expensive. All I can suggest is the internet is your friend......beware - these are enormous bits of software (ISTA/P and ISTA/+ are about 200GB together when installed - but cover literally every vehicle ever made BMW, Motorrad, Rolls Royce, Mini plus some Husqvarna's (and a weird brand of Snowmobiles......)
I'm still adding images from the coding / programming process......
Top tip: Remove the screen and the trim panel behind the speedo (it pulls out) so you can get at the connectors - but do NOT remove the old speedo (aka KOMBI) until the ISTA/P software tells you to - it needs to read the milage off the old speedo before it can code and program the new.
Secret Bonus that I've not seen elsewhere:The dash is made by 2D (the unit is known as the BigDash) in Germany:
http://2d-datarecording.com/en/produkte/hardware/display-unit/bigdash/These are / were supplied to race teams for Moto3, Moto2 amongst others, what no one tells you really is that the BMW unit is bespoke (tho very very similar). I've worked out how you can use the 2D software to fully customise the dash over and above what BMW supplied.
You need to acquire either:
WC-COM01USB-000 (slower, does about 270Kb/s)
or
WC-COM02USB-000 (faster, does about 1Mb/s)
The only ones I've seen for sale are over a hundred quid, however - acquire yourself:
An FTDI (must have this chip in it) USB Serial Cable: less than a tenner
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/USB-Cables/USB-Serial-TTL-Cable-FTDI/B00514ZCHQBinder 719 5 pin Female Socket: about 15 quid
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/sensor-switch-cables-connectors/7345307/]https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/sensor-switch-cables-connectors/7345307/[/url]
And you can use the 2D drivers from their website:
http://2d-datarecording.com/en/downloads/treiber/The socket for the cable is on the back of the dash at the top with a round plastic dust cover. I have as yet to actually try to program the dash as the software you use for this ...... is a little "involved" and it's literally only yesterday that I fitted and coded this all in!
I'll work the software out though as I want to change the fuel guage (old shows 10+ levels for fuel and the 2D dash shows 5, as well as range to empty is no longer present until you hit reserve
)
Programming and CodingArmed with an install of ISTA/P (plenty of info out on the net so I'll not duplicate that here) ensure that you have a battery charger connected. I found an Optimate via the socket wasn't quite up to the job due to the cycles and programmes it runs - so a normal charger connected direct to the battery works better for this.
When you fire ISTA/P up, create a new session and therafter make sure that your screen looks similar to this:
Note how my odometer reading was "0km" this is when I had fitted the HP dash before starting the process, which is incorrect, start the process and only install the HP dash when ISTA/P tells you to.
The two activation codes bottom right are for the Gearshift assist and the ASC I believe. There is a way to retrofit these without having to visit the dealer but I'll not go into detail here.
The "integration level (plant)" is the firmware version the bike left factory with, and the "(actual)" field is what the bike currently has. This will change to a new version by the time we've finished - the "12" is actually the year part of the version number - we'll end up with an "18" figure version.
Click on "control unit tree" and you'll see the 4 or 5 modules K13's have (dependant on spec)
KOMBI = Dash
DME = Engine "ECU"
ZFE = Central Chassis Electronics
DWA / RDC = Combined Alarm and Tyre Pressure Monitoring
There's also a method to retrofit the alarm if your bike doesn't have one (Like mine doesn't...........).
I'm missing an image for the next bit, but click on "Vehicle" tab (first screenshot) then "Conversion" and select "2D HP Dash" followed by "Determine Measures Plan". This is where ISTA/P works out what it needs to do.
More to come.......