K1300 exhaust headers

[runnerboy]

I have replaced the headers on one of my Ks, it was the cause of some of the noises I previously reported on here. It has a crack just before the section where it joins the rear can.
Some posters have said it can be welded, others say not. Either way it is available for any who would like a spare set and would be willing to weld the small crack.

I post this anticipating it may spark some debate, my interest is in clearing some space, let me know if there’s any interest.

[Phmode]

The only part of the exhaust system I have known to fail was the junction between the 2 into 1 sections which is a real pig to get welded properly. A crack down near the silencer should be no problem for a decent weldist, which mine most certainly wasn't...

[runnerboy]

I’ll take a pic of the crack and post for the chat value.

[richtea]

A crack down near the silencer should be no problem for a decent weldist, which mine most certainly wasn't...

Weldist? Tch. Any fule kno it is weldician.

If you get to the 'Nobody wants it so I'll throw it out' stage I'll come and grab it since I'm only 10-15 miles away and am trying to build a collection tentatively named The Museum of Almost Useful Broken K1300S Bits. It going extremely well, courtesy of Matt.

But I don't want to block an owner in real need.

[Phmode]

I'll send you a piccie showing my K12 one that was ruined by the weldbodger alongside the 'perfect' one from German ebay that leaked worse than my original together with the brand spankers one I was forced to pay the man for.

It can serve as a 'Don't do this!' warning.

[chriscanning]

Bloody hell Bri bumpy ride or what  with an 1100s/K1200/S1000XR in the garage can say with some certainty the stock BM exhaust are bloody rubbish,now in fairness they have to tow the TUV line as well,but my solution has been…..Bin and fit Akra headers went a touch tight arse buying secondhand….but with some aftermarket fuelling always come up with the goods 

[runnerboy]

https://ibb.co/G3KFyXf

Been off the bike a while now, and I can’t remember where the crack is, must be small. Couple of likely spots.

[richtea]

https://ibb.co/G3KFyXf

Been off the bike a while now, and I can’t remember where the crack is, must be small. Couple of likely spots.

Wasn't there a football-based game like this?

Here are my 7 guesses. My £3.50 is in the post in the official envelope. When is the winner announced?

[Phmode]

Mine were exactly where you have circled between the two pipes where they go into one.

It is impossible to re-weld in that very narrow part between the two pipes and was equally impossible when the system was made. For my money, they welded the two pipes together before they welded them into the larger collector piece.

Either way it is shite welding and BMW should have been ashamed of themselves. I have welding on my garden gate that is better than that...

[runnerboy]

Well it has to be one of the little red ringed spots. Happy to pass it to the museum for posterity!

[richtea]

Well it has to be one of the little red ringed spots. Happy to pass it to the museum for posterity!

Let's give it a week or two for folks that haven't logged in for a bit, unless you're desperate for the space?

[runnerboy]

Happy to let it roll on for a bit,  I have all winter to work on clearing space.

[Phmode]

My K13 flew through its MoT test this afternoon so I won't be needing the headers as a test piece for my postie to practice welding on with his birthday present, which is just as well because his welding on his garden gates are wayyyy worse than mine.

Maybe next year...

[armstrongracer]

Used to make headers years ago and suspect these are made same way, which is why they are a b**ard ro repair.

Effectively the ends of the two pipes are formed into a "D" shape. The "D's" are placed back to back and the 3 sides are weled together. So with the headers vertical you have 2 vertical welds going in the direction of the pipe and a horizontal weld where the 2 D's join. This sub assembly gets pushed into the collector and welded all the way around. As long as the two. vertical welds hit the collector weld you get a seal.  Depending on how they did it the weld actross the back of the D's can be very prone to fatigue cracking. If the ends of the pipe are in line you are blasting a weld onto the edge of the pipe, which is rubbish and will crack.  I offset the D's 3-4mm so that the weld at the end became a lap joint. Also I used robot welding which is more controlled.  BMW's supplier may be using low paid, low skilled manual welders.

[richtea]

Hmm, so it's not mendable is what you're saying? (or very unlikey, at least)